Track Day Advice. What did you do?

[BillsCommodore]

So, I did a bit of research and there seems to be some good advice in regards to the suspension setup for a track day setup, people are recommending
changing sway bars, changing bushings etc. I was wondering what people did in preparation for the track?
Personally I was thinking something along the lines of

I've got a track day coming up, just wondering other than alignment and tyres what can i do to get as much traction as possible and reduced body roll, given the car already has a set of shortened KYB shocks and SL-HD springs. I've got a 2005 V6 VZ Commodore, i was thinking rear cross member bushings, differential insert bushing and front and rear sway bars, should i be replacing the front control arm, and radius rod bushings too?

your experiences (what parts did you change for the track? did you run a different alignment setup? maybe more caster, or negative camber?) any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[Decicrate]

Are you going to be doing one track day or are you going to be doing multiple track days????

What is your budget?????

Safety first, get a good helmet....

Then...
1. Brakes, make sure that your brakes have plenty of pad left, if less than halfway, new pad time (see GSL rally sport for a good set of street track pads, site sponsor) have the fluid changed, if money is no issue some nice ventilated rotors....
2. Tyres, if you can afford them, get a nice set of semi slicks or even slicks if the budget is up for it. I use Kumho and for the cost I find they do a pretty good job!
3. Suspension, if you are only going to do a couple track days, then spending a **** load on a full suspension package may not be the best thing to do. I would have my car checked out and make sure everything is in great shape and leave it how it is. You really need to have a budget set in mind before going down the suspension path. A nice mild setup that works can set you back a minimum of $4000 to $5000. A great track setup does not make for a nice street driven car....
4. Fluids, filters and spark plugs. It is a good practise to make sure all your fluids are topped up and in good condition. Good oil, plugs and filters will keep your girl nice and happy.

5. Don't try and set a track record on your first day, this can result in a early exit from the day and a tow truck ride home. Plus a big repair bill. Remember your insurance does not cover you at a track day.

6. Listen to the organizers, this is important!!!

7. Have fun!!!

 

[chargedvx6]

To add to good advice above, make a decision if you really want to track regulary and just buy a dedicated track car imo. Way cheaper and only governign body that needs to be adhered to is the gods of the track like CAMS for example.

Driving $5k of suspension, $3k of brakes, $3k-$10k of engine around plus trans to run it is a risk and sadly people steal cars these days all too often

Best thing about a dedicated track car too is that you can push hard and not be scared to rub a wall as you'' eventually have a cage, harnesses, secure seats and the right mindset because of those to push safely

 

[BillsCommodore]

Are you going to be doing one track day or are you going to be doing multiple track days???? - Many more track days to come hopefully.

What is your budget????? - Idk really perhaps not over 4k? lel

Helmet is a go, ordered one a while ago.

Then...
1. Brakes - done, ordered some A1RM QFM (from GSL Rally Sports Sponsors of the forums too) pads along with DBA 4000 slotted rotors, will look into bigger brake updates for next time. HSV brakes maybe?
2. Tyres - definitely already taken tyres into account perhaps the most overlooked area IMHO when it comes to the weekend track day warrior.
3. Suspension - this perhaps the area where i was looking for the most or the bulk of advice, since i've bought this car recently I am not quite sure what shocks/springs its running, not sure if its had its bushings changed or any other suspension work done. But if anyones got some feed back on the following would appreciate it. the list of purchases are
Koni Sport (Yellow) (cut-a-strut front inserts) front and rear - initially thought of coilovers but really on these cars rear coilovers aren't that great of benefit and with Koni's adjustable valving it should be quite great to switch between track work and road use it was either these or Tein's Super Street coilovers
Kings SL-HD rear springs - its currently got theses in it, was considering trying out eibach's springs for these cars might do that if i can get a weight and height rating from them.
Kings SL fronts - should provide a decent drop in height while still remaining sensible.
Whiteline front and rear sways bars - from what i can tell factory sway bars are the real devil of this car's cornering ability.
Whiteline Bushings - get caster adjustable radius rod bushings and replace all the rear subframe bushings.
Nolathane Diff Insert - sounds like a good idea i guess? haha
4. Fluids, filters and spark plugs. I replaced the oil last night (track is on Saturday), changed the filters, air filter, obviously oil filter but haven't done fuel filter. Brake fluid hopefully i can get done tonight.

5. This is probably the biggest concern and the best reason I won't be going all out. Thanks for the reminder.

6. Noted, will do, I plan to do many more so this section will be important

7. Definitely

To add to good advice above, make a decision if you really want to track regulary and just buy a dedicated track car imo. Way cheaper and only governign body that needs to be adhered to is the gods of the track like CAMS for example.

Driving $5k of suspension, $3k of brakes, $3k-$10k of engine around plus trans to run it is a risk and sadly people steal cars these days all too often

Best thing about a dedicated track car too is that you can push hard and not be scared to rub a wall as you'' eventually have a cage, harnesses, secure seats and the right mindset because of those to push safely

I agree, getting a track car is the next plan but don't have space to keep one atm, still even if i had one would like to have a enjoyable daily. but no doubt about it, as i get more into track work i'll be getting a dedicated car. I use public transport a lot so my car just ends up getting used for hobby driving on special roads.

 

[TI3VOM]

Remove all unnecessary weight (rear seats, jack spare tire, crap in glove box ect).
Remove the sound deadener & possibly change the carpet to a lighter material.

Also all of the above points as well.

 

[lowandslow]

And don't go out trying to be Peter Brock.

I thought i could drive alright until i had semi's on a cold track with a small drying line. Found the wall ASAP. LOL.

 

[Dirbatua]

Then...
1. Brakes - done, ordered some A1RM QFM (from GSL Rally Sports Sponsors of the forums too) pads along with DBA 4000 slotted rotors, will look into bigger brake updates for next time. HSV brakes maybe?
2. Tyres - definitely already taken tyres into account perhaps the most overlooked area IMHO when it comes to the weekend track day warrior.
3. Suspension - this perhaps the area where i was looking for the most or the bulk of advice, since i've bought this car recently I am not quite sure what shocks/springs its running, not sure if its had its bushings changed or any other suspension work done. But if anyones got some feed back on the following would appreciate it. the list of purchases are
Koni Sport (Yellow) (cut-a-strut front inserts) front and rear - initially thought of coilovers but really on these cars rear coilovers aren't that great of benefit and with Koni's adjustable valving it should be quite great to switch between track work and road use it was either these or Tein's Super Street coilovers
Kings SL-HD rear springs - its currently got theses in it, was considering trying out eibach's springs for these cars might do that if i can get a weight and height rating from them.
Kings SL fronts - should provide a decent drop in height while still remaining sensible.
Whiteline front and rear sways bars - from what i can tell factory sway bars are the real devil of this car's cornering ability.
Whiteline Bushings - get caster adjustable radius rod bushings and replace all the rear subframe bushings.
Nolathane Diff Insert - sounds like a good idea i guess? haha

Keep in mind that brakes will fad badly on the track if your doing alot of heavy/late braking, DBA 4000s with A1RMs will fade within 3-5 laps if your braking hard and going above 150kph around the track, comes down to how fast and how much braking your doing and the circuit.

HSV brakes are super expensive upgrade, better off getting an aftermarket big brake kit for like $1500 bucks with 330mm or 343mm rotors etc.

Tyres, just make sure there is no cracks or damage to them and check they aint remoulds or something since they have speed limits on them before the shred and keep speed in mind cause a car can slide sideways if the tyre grip/speed is too much in a corner if the tyres are ****.

Suspension - King Springs SLs HDs or lower with new gas shocks are good enough for a mild track day, you want to lower the car to reduce body roll in the corners so you can keep more speed up, coil overs are great if your planning on doing alot of track days in the future - heard nothing but good things about XYZ coil overs, Tiens are **** from what my import mates tell me.

I run SSLs front and rear in mine and she handles well on track days.

Bushes wise your gonna want to make sure your bushes are all good, i'd dump the money on a superpro or nolathane kit for the front end if the bushes are still stock, mainly the control arm bushes and raidus rod to chassis front bushes, but honestly spend the $500 bucks and do the whole front end, dont bother with whiteline just get super pro or nolathane, you want the front end as reliable as possible cause if **** breaks that is whats gonna put you into a wall.

Rear bushes make sure they are all good but if you have to choose between front and rear do the front first.

Sway bar upgrades are great on the older cars but on the newer cars i haven't noticed much difference between the stock ones and the whiteline upgrades.

Your gonna need the fire extinguisher installed within reach of the driver that secure too, not sure if anyone else said that.

and make sure you've done a brake flush since brake fluid expires and doesn't perform as well and a coolant flush possibly as well since you don't want it over heating mid track.

Empty as much **** from the car as you can as TI3VOM says but if its a daily as well dont go spastic like sound deadening removal etc since you'll have to deal with it every day, if its a weekender then go nuts.

 

[Dirbatua]

oh yea make sure your tailshaft donuts are all good as well.

 

[Deuce]

Tiens are **** from what my import mates tell me.
Your gonna need the fire extinguisher installed within reach of the driver that secure too, not sure if anyone else said that.

Is that your mate Ari? how is he?
Yeah, great hint on fire extinguisher. I had a mate who's S4 RX7 caught fire at a powercruise - bolts holding fuel rail to intake manifold on his SR20 must of slowly come loose with heat expansion, fuel rail lifted under boost - you can guess the rest. (He did have it back on the track 24hr later though)

I would have to say - brakes brakes brakes. It's a bit un-nerving when things don't go as planned, but without brakes your ducked. The better your brakes, the harder you will comfortably push.
Yes suspension and tyres (and weight) are important, and mean you can brake less and corner harder. But I would pour everything into braking and work on the other components before the future track days.

Have heaps of fun though :driving:

 

[Dirbatua]

Is that your mate Ari? how is he?

Ari and several of my mates who do drifting events and hill climbs, they all say Tiens are ****.

and He is alive and banging backpackers.