Brazilian Omega - little history & Alloytec 190 has interference?

[ForestVt]

Another poor Brazilian - { as Fu Manchu says... :spot on: }

(but a toolbox, a scanner (CAN & ALDL), a GM service manual and a passion ...)

I have a 2005 Holden VZ. (in Brasil named "Omega CD")
I believe (not sure) that all of the Holden Commodore exported to Brazil are the same profile (for each year).

This I have - the features included:
3.6 L 190 kW (258 PS; 255 hp)
5-speed automatic transmission
6 disc in-dash CD player
Anti-lock braking system (ABS)
Auto headlights
Brake assist (BA)
Cruise control
Driver's and passenger's airbags
Dual zone electronic climate control
Electronic brake assist (EBA)
Electronic brakeforce distribution (EBD)
Electronic stability program (ESP)
Front and rear power windows
Independent rear suspension (IRS)
Limited slip differential (LSD)
Luxury suspension
Power antenna
Security system
Side impact airbags (SIAB)
Sports leather steering wheel
Rear park assist
Traction control system (TCS)
Trip computer
16x8 inch alloy wheels

When I bought, the odometer marked 30,000 km.
I even change the lubricating oil and filter every 5,000 Km. (synthetic 5W30)
In this month the odometer reached 240,000 km.

In this period of use, I already replacing some parts.
Tires, brake pads and brake discs, shock absorbers, bushes of the tensile bars, the entire cooling system included radiator, water pump, thermostat, and filler cap. Reviewing the charging system, I replaced the rectifier, the voltage regulator and brushes, and alternator bearings.
I have also replaced the battery, spark plugs and fuel pump and the oil pressure switch.
I almost forgot: The relay at BCM that "stuck" and melted the right taillight.
I made the replacement filter and transmission oil (5L40E) - included flush - to 75,000 kilometers and then to 200,000 km.

With all that, this car never let me down.
After a VT 1999, this is the best car I've ever had.

I also try to "listen" carefully, noise at the front of the engine.

The engine belt: :surprise:
I routinely inspect the engine belt.
I never replace the belt. Believe it or not, a new inspection that I performed this week, the belt comes in perfect condition !!!. No crack in the channels or apparent dryness. (I keep the spare in the trunk)

The cams drive chains: :whistling
I also never replace the cams drive chains.
For this reason, I worry about the consequences arising from any failure of these chains - (remains Holden originals).

Just one question:
I searched the forum but could not find: This engine (VZ Alloytec 190) has interference?

Thnks and Cheers

 

[ForestVt]

Low fuel pressure & Quiet driving style = wrong transmission diag

This is what I found searching the web: The V6 LY7, has no interference.

To my preventive strategy, which should reconcile budget, I believe I can expect some evidence of symptoms of possible failure in timing chains - despite the 240,000 kilometers on the odometer marked.
The price of the chain kit here in Brazil, is relatively high for those who insist on keeping these mechanical wonders for over 10 years.

The story of the fuel pump: :blah blah:
A year ago I traveled the state of Goias in the central area of ​​Brazil. In this travell was failed fuel pump. In metropolitan areas of cities like Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, we have difficulties to find spare parts for these cars. In areas far from major centers like this where I was, that's impossible.

But in the city 'Rio Verde' in state named 'Goias', a local mechanic convinced me to just replace the electric pump - not the entire set of the pot that accommodates the pump and fuel level sensor - (as recommended by Holden).
Agreed we disassembled the fuel tank and removed the pump assembly. The set failed was led by the "specialist for the laboratory" :hmmm: from which he returned with the newly installed electric pump. :lock:

My sin:
The new pump (BOSCH) was mechanically identical to the replaced pump (also BOSCH). Worse ... I did not check the pressure specifications and volume of the new pump installed "by the expert". The car ran "apparently" well and we returned home on a journey of about 1,000 kilometers.

Weeks after I have realized the beginning of some hesitation "subtle" in transmission. :whistling
It occurs to exchange gears when in soft uphill situation, I keep the foot on the accelerator in the same position, forcing the reduction gear (and the exercise of PWM / TCC - speed around 60-90 km/hour)

At GM workshop in my city, using TECH2 to diagnose the transmission, the technician did not identify anything irregular. Being discreet this failure, and had not noticed anything in diagnostics, I decided to wait :unsure: for some more specific evidence.

The time has passed.
About 15 days ago, I full refueled at a gas station "different" from that usually use. Unknown to me about fuel quality. Immediatly after I experienced very evident loss of performance. :banstick:

Background vision:
Unfortunately - it is a relatively common problem in Brazil, the adulteration of gasoline. Dishonest people, mix several products in the gasoline it make more money selling the same liquid volume - whatever it is. In the best case (minor injury to the consumer), mix anhydrous alcohol. In the worst case, mixed solvents and paints that end up impregnating (and catch) the internal parts of the injection system. The struggle of consumers related to this problem, it is a story apart.
I decided to clean the entire fuel supply system.

To shorten:
When removing the electric pump assembly to also clean the internal filter set there, I could see (only now) the body of the electric pump a date marked (2008) with the numbers identifiers of the pump (BOSCH PN: 0580.454.066)
The date caught my attention. It was mounted in my car in 2015, but had 2008 date on the body. (??? Old stock, I thought to myself).
I decided to check it more carefully.

According to BOSCH catalog, the pump installed in my VZ a year ago (PN: 0580.454.066 / 3,0 bar 85 l/h), does not meet the specification VZ SV6 - approximately 410 kPa idling.
I got a new BOSCH pump and (myself) replace in the car (PN: 0580 453 481 / 4,0 bar 95 l/h)

Voila: :beer chug:
(could not be otherwise ... poor sufferer machine ...)
All the symptoms that previously I related to natural wear of transmission, disappeared (after expiry of the period for transmission and engine "learn" the new fuel pump). The "boat" went to navigate as before.

These events demonstrate how "interesting" is to (poor people) maintain and use these wonderful (and robust) vehicles in these distant lands of their origin.

ps:
I am not an typical explorer of the full potential of the machine. Quiet driving style - is how I would describe my. Thus, the typical "communication" between myself and machine can be categorized as "complacent". Maybe then we together managed to overcome some barriers of time ...

Cheers

 

[Risky]

Some people have their views regarding the Alloytec engine. Where I used to work on the railways, company cars & utes were split between Holden & Ford as they had contracts. When the VZ came out, those who had them had problems & it became that bad that the railways cancelled the contract with Holden & we had to use Fords. The problems we had were the timing chain issues.

Your Chevrolet Omega B CD is based on the Holden VZ Calais & for your Omega to go over 240,000kms is common provided that you maintain it as best as you can. I understand in Brasil, that there wouldn't be many spares nor parts readily available.

My VY ute has done over 240,000kms with the Ecotec 3.8L. It's a strong engine & only the usual things such as the water pump, original engine mounts & the original idler pulley have failed. Apart from various upgrades using nolathane bushes by the previous owner, I cannot complain.

The Alloytec engines in my opinion need to be serviced more often due to failing or worn components but in saying that, high kilometers in these engines are common.

If you have reliable sources for parts, then use them to your advantage. Otherwise, you might need to hit eBay.

 

[markovr]

For me it appears that duty cycle against service intervals has a bearing on the life of a alloytec..... 15000 is way too long for a city driven car.... Short trips are not good as the synthetic oil doesn't get to a defined higher temperature to run at its lowest viscosity through the engine that it was designed to....so the oil deposits ever so slightly each time in the cavities in the oiling system .Do that for 1000 short trips keeping to the recommended service interval and it starts to be a problem.

 

[greenacc]

Sounds like they put a lot of fruit in your Omega. How come the Local cars sold here were so basic arghhh no wonder the company is going backwards !

 

[AdventraAddict]

190 Alloytec will go 500,000 no probs
Change oil ever 10k not 15k run full synth 5W30 oil.. I treat mine to slick 50 treatment every 50,000 to keep everything ungummed... Lots of guys on Adventra groups over 400k and still running perfectly...

 

[ForestVt]

Thanks for all the feedbacks.
I believe that at least for the chains I can expect some further evidence of wear.

Steering rack
This week, I came across a new evidence. A little knock on the front suspension, left hand.
Occurs most clearly when traffic by cobbled streets.

I lifted the front of the car and inspected all the bushes and appear in good condition - yet.
With a lever, I forced strategical points to try to identify fractures not visible bushes in a static position. Nothing irregular ...

Having suspended front wheels and grabbing one of the wheels, I move the whell to play the steering quickly and alternating in the opposite direction. I noticed a break probably in the left inner joint.
This is one of the items that keeps original. It never was dismantled the rack despite I already have performed cleaning (flusch) and fluid exchange on two occasions.

I intend to perform overhaul with replacement of seals and internal joints. I identified the manufacturer of the steering box by the relief in the body of the box: "TSSA / P023127" - with 16mm Rack Ends.

From this, I discovered two things:
1- The TSSA manufacturer is absolutely unknown in the replacement market in Brazil.
2 - All the steering box repair kits for the Omega CD 2005 (our Omega) offered in Brazil are identified as compatible with TRW steering box.

By phone sellers, unfortunately, can not confirm the possible compatibility for application of TRW repair the TSSA box - despite confirming application for Omega CD 2005.

The "our friend google" did not give me even a clue about this component manufactured by TSSA. In addition, he informed me that the TSSA manufacturer ended activities due to legal problems.

Some friends would be able to help me with that?
Will some of the friends know confirm that TRW now provides steering boxes for our Commodore VZ at some point?
Is it possible to use TRW repair kit in TSSA box?
(Something like two suppliers for the same Holden application project ??)

I thank's in advance for any reference about this possible compatibility.

Cheers

 

[markovr]

I did a how to rebuild a TSSA (Tristar steering and suspension Australia ) rack and basically components were seals and rack ends... Seals kits and rack ends available here for a reasonable price....maybe you could get them from Australia ....I got mine from eBay ....but I decided to buy the dearer rack ends as they were better quality and of course some good dust boots ( universal types are realistically a bad fit and look dodgy )

 

[ForestVt]

I did a how to rebuild a TSSA (Tristar steering and suspension Australia ) rack and basically components were seals and rack ends... Seals kits and rack ends available here for a reasonable price....maybe you could get them from Australia ....I got mine from eBay ....but I decided to buy the dearer rack ends as they were better quality and of course some good dust boots ( universal types are realistically a bad fit and look dodgy )

Very good Mr. Markovr. It is exactly the kind of work I prefer to do here in my own garage!
Especially the "special tools" .. :clapping: .. With this detail, I feel safe to perform the job.

The rack ends of good quality, I find in Brazil with relative ease.
You may be surprised at this;
A purchase of US$50 on ebay + costs for shipping via FEDEX or similar + federal import taxes + currency conversion ...this may result in a final value equal to the value for the exchange of the entire rack by item remanufactured in Brazil (TRW - around BR$700.00)... :supersad:

Taking into account the price of the offered repair kit in Brazil is relatively low - about 1/6 the price of remanufactured rack - I want to leave this option (by on ebay ou exchange entire rack) to the end.

My only doubt is whether these kits offered here "for Omega CD 2005" apply to TSSA racks...
From the pictures (your post and local market), the kits are very similar.
I will personally consult a "local expert Omegas Australians rebuild applications" nutkick trying confirm this possible compatibility.

Thank you for your valuable instruction.

Cheers.

 

[AdventraAddict]

With the vehicle sitting on its wheels, grab and shake in and out the front wheels... Any movement is the shock top bushes, with bonnet open you can see the strut top move a little (very common issue) note... it is not detectable when the vehicle is suspended by the body..