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Replacing VZ ECU - Options in today's Market

crowey

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Hi All,
I have the dreaded Low fuel & Powertrain errors on my 190kw VZ - all signs point to me needing a new ECU.

All the threads/material I have read is a few years old on this so I'm wondering what the best options are to deal with this now.

Any recommendations of places I can send ECU/PIM/BCM etc to and get them linked and ECU repaired so I can plug straight back in?
Is new replacement still around $1000?

I have never been able to confirm whether buying a BCM/ECU/PIM and Key head from a car with the same motor would work with no coding.
Any recent experiences and costs etc would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Crowey :)
 

TazzI

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Hi All,
I have the dreaded Low fuel & Powertrain errors on my 190kw VZ - all signs point to me needing a new ECU.

All the threads/material I have read is a few years old on this so I'm wondering what the best options are to deal with this now.

Any recommendations of places I can send ECU/PIM/BCM etc to and get them linked and ECU repaired so I can plug straight back in?
Is new replacement still around $1000?

I have never been able to confirm whether buying a BCM/ECU/PIM and Key head from a car with the same motor would work with no coding.
Any recent experiences and costs etc would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Crowey :)

Yeah, Iv been meaning to make a thread to cover the whole VZ V6 ECU changeovers and options available. As its getting ridiculous how often its occuring.

Right, the main three options are:
1) Brand new ECU (~$1100 for unit plus programming and fitting)

2) Second hand ECU only ($50-$100, MUST BE RESET OR IT IS USELESS! Also needs to be programmed to your cars engine calibration plus perform all relearns to ensure everything works without warnings)

3) ECU, BCM, PIM and key. Plug and play solution to fix the problem. (Price ranges from $250-650 depending on seller, programming ect)


Things to think about though..

Option 1 is most expensive, can cost more then quoted depending on Holden dealership, but the ECU is guaranteed not to be faulty. At almost quarter of the cost of alot of VZ's, its up to you whether you think its worth it.

Obviously, cheapest option is number 2... BUT I cant stress this enough, a second hand VZ V6 ECU is literally worthless without being security reset. The reset is what delinks the ECU from the BCM and PIM, it requires entering the security immo 4 digit key to delink it. Without this 4 digit key, the ECU cannot be security reset. And if its not security reset, it cant be linked to another vehicle!

Option three is plug and play. BUT the ECU and PIM need to be programmed for your vehicle otherwise you will receive ABS warnings, Engine warnings ect due to misconfiguration. In any situation this requires online subscription access to Holdens servers to flash in a valid calibration and a STRONG battery charger if performed in car otherwise flash will fail and ecu will be killed. If you can find a set from the exact same vehicle, then it will be plug and play.


Iv performed all three options on various clients cars so they do all work. Its more a matter of finding someone with experience with the VZ V6's otherwise you will be forking out 100's to someone that wont be able to do anything and waste your time.

Hope that helps!!
 

pebbs

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Dont you just love modern technology, friends Mercedes sprinter ecu was quoted $8000,00 from Mercedes and it might not fix the problem!
 

crowey

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Hi Tazzi,

Thanks appreciate your advice.
Just some clarifications on each of the options.
1 - I may be able to source a new ECU at a good price. Given it would be blank is Holden the only one who would be able to programme it?
2 - For second hand can the unlinking only occur whilst the ECU is plugged in to the original car or can you unlink after plugging it in to the car you want to fix? Many ECU's are sold from wrecks with the VIN so I could get the security code but not be able to plug it back in to the donor car.
3 -For Plug and Play are you saying if I find a set from an exact car with the same options it should just work..?

In addition to the above thee are a few different places selling refurbished units. Some people are telling me to be wary as they are prone to re-fail anyway. Have you had any experience with these.
I'm surprised there isn't someone privately offering a service to swap and recode these.
If anyone has any recommendations of where to go please let me know - I'm more than willing to send ECU,BCM, PIM and key off to get done.

Thanks
Crowey
 

MattK

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Just like the stupid pin for the RADIO ...
If mem serves holden wants to charge a fee for giving you the pin ...
I thought I might give my radio away or something when I swapped in a double din Stereo GPS head unit ...

Instead it went into the rubbish bin ...
For some strange reason , I just wont miss locally built cars ...
Not that imports impress that much , might have to go back to just buying clunkers that are good for 2 or three years and at the end of their lives just drop them of at the car graveyard ...
The VZ is such a AssHat ( Poorly designed ) ... The longer I own it , the more I find things not to like ...

The VS was the opposite , the longer I had it , the more I liked it ...
WTF happened @ Holden ...
Did the Yanks from Wanker County take over ?
 

crowey

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Yeah, Iv been meaning to make a thread to cover the whole VZ V6 ECU changeovers and options available. As its getting ridiculous how often its occuring.

Right, the main three options are:
1) Brand new ECU (~$1100 for unit plus programming and fitting)

2) Second hand ECU only ($50-$100, MUST BE RESET OR IT IS USELESS! Also needs to be programmed to your cars engine calibration plus perform all relearns to ensure everything works without warnings)

3) ECU, BCM, PIM and key. Plug and play solution to fix the problem. (Price ranges from $250-650 depending on seller, programming ect)


Things to think about though..

Option 1 is most expensive, can cost more then quoted depending on Holden dealership, but the ECU is guaranteed not to be faulty. At almost quarter of the cost of alot of VZ's, its up to you whether you think its worth it.

Obviously, cheapest option is number 2... BUT I cant stress this enough, a second hand VZ V6 ECU is literally worthless without being security reset. The reset is what delinks the ECU from the BCM and PIM, it requires entering the security immo 4 digit key to delink it. Without this 4 digit key, the ECU cannot be security reset. And if its not security reset, it cant be linked to another vehicle!

Option three is plug and play. BUT the ECU and PIM need to be programmed for your vehicle otherwise you will receive ABS warnings, Engine warnings ect due to misconfiguration. In any situation this requires online subscription access to Holdens servers to flash in a valid calibration and a STRONG battery charger if performed in car otherwise flash will fail and ecu will be killed. If you can find a set from the exact same vehicle, then it will be plug and play.


Iv performed all three options on various clients cars so they do all work. Its more a matter of finding someone with experience with the VZ V6's otherwise you will be forking out 100's to someone that wont be able to do anything and waste your time.

Hope that helps!!

For option 3 I have found a set locally from a WL statesman with the same motor/trans set up - Too risky to use in a VZ Calais? Tempted as it is less than $200 for the set and I would assume calais Vs Statesman options would be very similar if not the same? Your thoughts?
 

markovr

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Hi All,
I have the dreaded Low fuel & Powertrain errors on my 190kw VZ - all signs point to me needing a new ECU.

All the threads/material I have read is a few years old on this so I'm wondering what the best options are to deal with this now.

Any recommendations of places I can send ECU/PIM/BCM etc to and get them linked and ECU repaired so I can plug straight back in?
Is new replacement still around $1000?

I have never been able to confirm whether buying a BCM/ECU/PIM and Key head from a car with the same motor would work with no coding.
Any recent experiences and costs etc would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Crowey :)

how do you know for sure its the ecu...my car is throwing up both cam sensors but nothing else...car drives fine just keeps throwing up powertrain alarm for 16 and 18
 

TazzI

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how do you know for sure its the ecu...my car is throwing up both cam sensors but nothing else...car drives fine just keeps throwing up powertrain alarm for 16 and 18

Low Fuel is normally the give away, operated by the ECU if memory serves me right.
 

TazzI

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Hi Tazzi,

Thanks appreciate your advice.
Just some clarifications on each of the options.
1 - I may be able to source a new ECU at a good price. Given it would be blank is Holden the only one who would be able to programme it?
2 - For second hand can the unlinking only occur whilst the ECU is plugged in to the original car or can you unlink after plugging it in to the car you want to fix? Many ECU's are sold from wrecks with the VIN so I could get the security code but not be able to plug it back in to the donor car.
3 -For Plug and Play are you saying if I find a set from an exact car with the same options it should just work..?

In addition to the above thee are a few different places selling refurbished units. Some people are telling me to be wary as they are prone to re-fail anyway. Have you had any experience with these.
I'm surprised there isn't someone privately offering a service to swap and recode these.
If anyone has any recommendations of where to go please let me know - I'm more than willing to send ECU,BCM, PIM and key off to get done.

Thanks
Crowey

Soooo
1) Good price or not, if its blank it needs to be programmed by Holden which means using their online system to set the correct calibration and then securing link it to the car. 30min job if its been done a million times before but Holden techs will take their time if not done before or to be cautious so they will probably charge 2-3 hours labour.. but best to check with your local Holden!

2) Technically, doesnt need to be in the original vehicle. It can be reset outside of vehicle or in another vehicle. I do my resets on the bench without anything connected by the ECU.
BUT as I found out the hard way, Holden will not give out the key because its security related and you have to prove that you own the vehicle. Otherwise they could be handing over security related details to a vehicle which is actually on the road.

3) Thats correct. But if the set is not identical to your setup then you will get warnings popping up on the screen. If the ECU is from the same engine VZ (Eg 190Kw ect) then that part will be fine, but its the "PIM" that stores ABS/TC settings which needs to be correct or you will get ABS warnings thrown up on screen. Even with those warnings, its still plug and play option as long as the ECU is from a vehicle with the same engine. Its also recommended to perform any relearns available so the ECU has been set to your vehicles engine conditions but for the sake of getting your vehicle working first then the plug'n'play set would be the go.

Really, its up to the buyer if they want to use second hand or not. Eventually.. there will be no new units available so everyone will be stuck with second hand units so its inevitable. But if the cost of new ecu+programming isnt too off putting then its the sure option.
I think what causes the ECUs to fail in the first place is the extreme heat from the engine then mixed with rapid cooling from the water/rain along with water getting into the pins/connectors is what causes the ECU's to fail in the first place. I mean... bolting the ECU to the front of the engine isnt exactly the best idea. It gets warm just running on the bench without even connecting it to a car!

The reason there isnt many services, is because theres only a very select handful of people that can confidently reset these ecus and fit to another vehicle. Even tuners hate them as they are also prone to dieing during programming!.

For option 3 I have found a set locally from a WL statesman with the same motor/trans set up - Too risky to use in a VZ Calais? Tempted as it is less than $200 for the set and I would assume calais Vs Statesman options would be very similar if not the same? Your thoughts?

WL Statesman... no idea.
Do you have a VIN number? Also one for your car? Welcome to send it to me via PM also, and I will look up the two vehicles info and see if they match.

Main thing is ensuring its coming from a car with the same engine (175kw vs 190kw) and from an auto/manual ect. The autos have their own separate module to run the transmission but I think the ECU has an option in it to say auto/manual.
 

crowey

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WL Statesman... no idea.
Do you have a VIN number? Also one for your car? Welcome to send it to me via PM also, and I will look up the two vehicles info and see if they match.

Main thing is ensuring its coming from a car with the same engine (175kw vs 190kw) and from an auto/manual ect. The autos have their own separate module to run the transmission but I think the ECU has an option in it to say auto/manual.

Thanks TazzI - Have just sent you a PM with the - hopefully teh wrecker gave me the right VIN details!
 
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