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Help removing harmonic balancer bolt?

spencer983

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So I think the timing chains have **** themselves on my VZ, I'm in the process of removing the pulleys and the balancer, but I'm wondering if I'm doing it wrong. How am I supposed to crack the bolt on the balancer?

I know there's a special locking tool to get it done, but I can't justify forking out 200 bucks for something I'll use once...
I've tried putting it in 4th and cracking it but when I go to crack the bolt the chains make a gnarly crunching sound and feels like something's gonna break. I'm on the verge of welding up my own tool to lock the flywheel, but I wanna ask someone more experienced first.

Thanks guys :)
 

Tonner Matt

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As MYVESSV8 said use a rattle gun or buy/borrow the Balancer Bolt loosening tool.
I have no experience with the alloytec motors myself, never actually owned one and never worked on one either. Maybe I'm just lucky
There is only one other way I know of and this is totally up you if you decide to use this method.
1. Remove the fuel pump relay so the vehicle won't start or unplug the injectors if this can be done
2. Work out the direction of rotation of the engine
3. Fit socket and breaker bar to Balancer bolt
4. Turn engine over by hand until the breaker bar is touching or as close to the chassis rail you can get it
5. Turn the engine over via the key and let the power of the starter motor loosen the bolt for you

# Please Note:
Make sure the engine cannot start if you use this method. You don't want the bolt to come all the way out and have tools flying around in the engine bay
I did this countless times when I was younger and didn't have the correct tools without damaging myself or the vehicle.
I have never done this with an alloytec motor so have no idea of the outcome.
I do remember reading somewhere that people have either stripped or damaged the teeth on the flywheel ring gear using this method.
 

Benboy

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The above system - using the breaker bar - does work very well. Take your time, follow the instructions to the letter and you shouldn't have any problems. Reinstallation, make sure that bolt thread is clean and torque to MINIMUM of 190Nm. You may have to use a ring gear lock (on the engine flywheel through aperture provided) in order to prevent the engine from spinning etc.
 

rambunctious

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As MYVESSV8 said use a rattle gun or buy/borrow the Balancer Bolt loosening tool.
I have no experience with the alloytec motors myself, never actually owned one and never worked on one either. Maybe I'm just lucky
There is only one other way I know of and this is totally up you if you decide to use this method.
1. Remove the fuel pump relay so the vehicle won't start or unplug the injectors if this can be done
2. Work out the direction of rotation of the engine
3. Fit socket and breaker bar to Balancer bolt
4. Turn engine over by hand until the breaker bar is touching or as close to the chassis rail you can get it
5. Turn the engine over via the key and let the power of the starter motor loosen the bolt for you

# Please Note:
Make sure the engine cannot start if you use this method. You don't want the bolt to come all the way out and have tools flying around in the engine bay
I did this countless times when I was younger and didn't have the correct tools without damaging myself or the vehicle.
I have never done this with an alloytec motor so have no idea of the outcome.
I do remember reading somewhere that people have either stripped or damaged the teeth on the flywheel ring gear using this method.

Yep, dats da way I bin doing it for years.
The breaker bar needs to sit on the passenger side sub frame before you hit the key.
Be sure to put a rag under the bar so you don't scratch da paint.
If this does not work then breaker bar with lump hammer works as well, just gotta watch yer knuckles.
 

spencer983

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Thanks for the suggestions guys, I went and brought a decent-ish quality cordless rattle gun along with some impact sockets, had absolutely zero luck with that.

Then tried the breaker bar against the sub-frame with a impact socket, didn't even budge and I tried for ages (even sent my battery flat from cranking).

Then I tried ratchet straping the spokes on the pulley to the chassis which worked until I ended up ripping a strap :doh:

I've heard of pulling the starter out and jaming a screwdriver in there to stop the engine from turning over, a ring gear lock goes into the starter or something to stop it from turning, right?

Thanks again for your help guys :beer chug:
 

rambunctious

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Thanks for the suggestions guys, I went and brought a decent-ish quality cordless rattle gun along with some impact sockets, had absolutely zero luck with that.

Then tried the breaker bar against the sub-frame with a impact socket, didn't even budge and I tried for ages (even sent my battery flat from cranking).

Then I tried ratchet straping the spokes on the pulley to the chassis which worked until I ended up ripping a strap :doh:

I've heard of pulling the starter out and jaming a screwdriver in there to stop the engine from turning over, a ring gear lock goes into the starter or something to stop it from turning, right?

Thanks again for your help guys :beer chug:

I'm surprised the starter did not shift it. Always worked for me.
The screwdriver in the flywheel will work but of course you need someone to hold the "very large blade screwdriver" while you undo the bolt.
 

Tonner Matt

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greenacc

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Using the starter and breaker bar trick usually works but I just slip a long Jack handle over breaker bar and rest it on the ground under car. There's usually a whack and then it keeps cranking and undoing the bolt.
On the ecotec I just let the car start LOL and by the time I could turn it off the bolt was almost out.
I reckon let it swing more before the bar hits sometin so the starter can build up more momentum...
 

spencer983

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Update guys, I ended up just finding a piece of old steel tubing, then bashed the end flat and wedged it through the flywheel against one of the 13mm timing cover bolts. Worked a treat!

I got the timing cover and all off, I'm not sure if the chains are stretched or not though.The chains are loose and all the timing marks on the chain seem to have faded or something except for one.

But I found a snapped off guide down the bottom on the right hand side, and the right hand tensioner is loose (can be moved in and out by pushing on it). I'm wondering if it's possible that I can just do a half assed job and just replace the snapped tensioner and guide? And then. see if that works before replacing everything.

What do you guys reckon? I'm gonna upload some pics when I get home from work today.

Thanks heaps :)
 
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