My v6 is leaking coolant from the top down. 2 days ago i replaced the rad cap after discovering it was broken. Now this. Im thinking its the water pump where is it located exactly? Anybody had theres changed, mine is coming up to 120k.
Thanks.
Have u checked all the hoses?
Could just be a loose hose clamp somewhere. Off the top off my head, dont really know where the WP is located.
Sorry if i wasnt of any assistance, mate
The Blue One
its located underneath the throttlebody, havent seen any that have leaked yet tho cos they are a pretty good seal design....
Been under the car now doesnt look like its hoses. the coolant trails down ends up snaking around the sump then drips. thanks PaulSV6 Peanuts Inc. gonna get under the car again. Before i changed the rad cap the temp gauge sat just above the quater mark now its above that first mark i put it down to recent heat in syd.
Hey pal.
I've had my water pump replaced twice, the second time for nothing cause of a faulty pump. They were done within a week of eachother at around the 85k mark i think.
When the water pump shit itself i noticed the radiator cap was also stuffed.
The water pump is located vertically above the sump, thats why it leaks onto the sump and trails off the side and bottom.
First place gave me a quote to replace the water pump - $650-$700
Ended up going through a friend of a friend for $450.
Hope this helps mate...
Man thats sounds like exactly whats happening to mine. Thanks for the info CMA.
mine started randomly leaking, not all the time, maybe 3 times a week, i changed it cause i was going to the track day tomorrow but it was leaking from that casting plug at the top of it (welsh plug)
easy as to change, 4x 10mm bolts on the pulley, then 7-8 10mm bolts holding the pump on,
took me 45 minutes to change thats from dumping coolant to having the car running,
all you need to do is:
drain the coolant from the tap on the bottom of the radiator, turn heater to the hottest position
1. crack the 4x bolts on the pulley
2, make a mud map of the way the serpentine belt runs
3, stick a 1/2 breaker bar in the tensioner, back off and slip the belt off the water pump, leave the belt sitting on the rest of the pulleys, it will stay there
4, undo the 4x bolts on the pulley
5, undo the bolt of the water pump
6, gently lever the old pump off
7, use a gasket scraper to clean the large chuncks of old gasket off
8, use 250+ grit sand paper to clean the rest of the old gasket off, sand paper coarser than 250 will dig into the alloy to much,
9, clean all the gasket debris
10, use a slight smear of gasket goo (like loctite or permatex blue maxx) on the block around the gasket surface and the same on the new pump
11. lay the new gasket over the water pump, grab some bolts, line it up and start putting the bolts back in,
12, go around and evenly tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern, remember not to tight, its only alloy
13, line up the pulley and put bolt in, tighten up a bit
14,put serpentine belt back on
15, tighten pulley bolt, remember not to tight again
16, back off the black plug on the drivers side top tank,
17, start filling with coolant and water
18, when water starts comming out the plug, tighten it back up,
19, continue filling up with coolant
20, when done tip some water over the front of the motor to remove and coolant that has gone over the place
21, start the motor, the belt might squeel for a few secs but that only from the water
22, go for a drive make sure everythings ok, when engines cool, just cheack the coolant hasnt dropped but it should be fine
EASTERN CREEK JCNSW 2009
Originally Posted by Commydoor
No problems mate, glad to help
oh genuine pumps are around $440 retail, aftermarket pumps are about $80 retail
EASTERN CREEK JCNSW 2009
Originally Posted by Commydoor
Thanks fellas i will have a good look at your right up 2morrow andyman, gotta go 2 work.
i thought i had a leaking waterpump too and the car was still under warranty so holden looked at it and reckon it was coming from the top of the radiator hose connection and trailed down the hose then down the front of the block. there answer fit a new radiator.
problem was still there went back a 2nd time they checked it and coudnt find nuffn.
then the 3rd time (only because the young bloke said anything else i can help you with???so i mentioned the prob) it went back in and they realised that one of the hoses going into the block (between the waterpump and the intake manifold) had a pinched o-ring (from assembly they say) and caused the slight leak down the front and around waterpump. problem solved
Replaced waterpump yesterday not leaking anymore. Thanks for the info andyman. I bought a thermostat as well i was gonna change it while i had everything off but couldnt find it ( any one know). The pic is where i thought it was, it shows the o-ring that baracuda is talking about.
EASTERN CREEK JCNSW 2009
Originally Posted by Commydoor
My temperature is sitting higher then before, thermo fan is cutting in at 108 dropping temp to 103. Where the temp needle sat before the old waterpump died was just above the quarter mark im guessing 95 96c. I did a 50 50 mix of a popular aust coolant, red one (not sure i can mention brand name). Is this new temp. too high?
EASTERN CREEK JCNSW 2009
Originally Posted by Commydoor
Thanks Andyman Yes to all above I will keep an eye on it. gotta go.
Had the vz cooling checked over and my mechanic said that everything is OK. The only conclusion i can come to about the temp gauge now moving, instead of staying just above the quarter mark before changing water pump and dumping in new coolant, is that from factory there must be a higher concentration of coolant to water. Say 70 30 instead of 50 50.
Has anyone had the coolant changed and noticed that the temp gauge now moves instead of staying steady no matter what the weather conditions are like? Or am i just noticing the temp gauge more now?
in short no, i dont think they are balanced as well, the one i got, the pulley vibrates a bit when running, and there is a bit of play pump shaft through the bush, and the casting isnt as good as the genuine,
in saying that there is a reason why one cost 120 and the other cost $450
but it hasnt let me down
EASTERN CREEK JCNSW 2009
Originally Posted by Commydoor
Ok cool. Well i picked up my car and i talked to the Mechanic and he said they have had quite a few VZ's come though with the waterpump leaking though the welsh plug. He said the aftermarket ones he uses has a better design with the welsh plug (not sure about the casting and play in the bush but there is no vibration) and you are only paying extra for the genuine for the name. Anyway ill see how it goes.
$450 for genuine?!
Is that right?
Have seen what is claimed to be
genuine Holden pumps on ebay
for less than $100.
I'm not afraid.
Just curious shaky, what year model VZ do you have? 2004, 2005 or 2006? ..... After spending alot of time hunting forums it seems like 04 and 05 vz's seem highly prone to random problems.
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2009 VE SS SILVER SEDAN - Twin Amps... Tune in progress (more for response and power) then outright KW on a dyno
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as stated, they only leak from the casting plug, i only swapped mine as i put my car on a track, if i didnt i would have let it ride as it was intermident leaking
EASTERN CREEK JCNSW 2009
Originally Posted by Commydoor
heres diagram with how belt goes on and what different pulleys are
Just changed my water pump in my VZ as it was starting to leak, new genuine pump from Holden cost $172.50 ex GST (part no. 92149009). Followed andyman's instructions, easy as to do.. Now a week later it appears to be leaking from somewhere above the water pump (looks like its coming from the water inlet pipe - pic that shakey has posted above). Just took the intake manifold off to do the plugs, looks like its coming off again.. GRRR! Cars.. always something to do to em!