Series 2 Sound System Upgrade Predicament

[pooley79]

So here's an issue I've got - hope someone can help me:

This is my setup: Alpine amp (MRX-F65), Type R splits in a SV6 Series 2. Amp has signal checking on the high end inputs and uses that to turn itself on from the stock Holden IQ head unit.

We (the shop) used the high end inputs first. Everything worked perfectly except there was quite a loud pop sound when I started the car. Alpine have told the shop that they need to use the low RCA inputs and the ignition line for power to fix this issue so....

They used a LOC to convert the high output to low - straight into the RCA, ignition line for power. Everything works well, no popping ... BUT... When i turn the car off, the head unit stays on until i open the door (as it should), But the amp turns off, because it must be attached to the ignition. Also if I turn the H/U on without the ignition on, same problem, no sound until the ignition switch is on - but head unit still goes. The sound quality has dropped a bit too IMO.

Does anyone have any ideas about this? Seems im stuck. Either I have popping (which mind you i could probably live with), or I have a system that has sub quality sound due to the LOCs, and I have to deal with the above issue when i turn the car off (I really wanna listen to that last bit of the news before i open the door!)

Please help!

 

[SUP3RST4R_DJ]

Hey bud couple ways to fix your issues

Firstly, your right the rem wire is connected to ignition when it should be connected to an accessory wire, you can pick this up at the back of the H/U OR if it's simpler connect it to the + on the 12v outlet or ciggy lighter (this should turn off with the H/U when you open your door) or any available accessories wire that turns off same time the H/U does

As for sound quality yes it will have dropped but this is due to using the LOC instead of the high level inputs on the amp, if the sound quality is bothering you enough you can look into RCA pre outs installed on the factory H/U (look at asr at the top of this forum to find out more) or if willing to spend the big bucks look into a processor

Though with these amps can't you run the high level inputs and have a separate rem? I've heard the high level turn on sensor can be a bit poor at times? Hoping someone with more experience with them jumps in here lol

 

[pooley79]

Hey bud couple ways to fix your issues

Firstly, your right the rem wire is connected to ignition when it should be connected to an accessory wire, you can pick this up at the back of the H/U OR if it's simpler connect it to the + on the 12v outlet or ciggy lighter (this should turn off with the H/U when you open your door) or any available accessories wire that turns off same time the H/U does

As for sound quality yes it will have dropped but this is due to using the LOC instead of the high level inputs on the amp, if the sound quality is bothering you enough you can look into RCA pre outs installed on the factory H/U (look at asr at the top of this forum to find out more) or if willing to spend the big bucks look into a processor

Though with these amps can't you run the high level inputs and have a separate rem? I've heard the high level turn on sensor can be a bit poor at times? Hoping someone with more experience with them jumps in here lol

Thanks for the response, much appreciated.

Not sure if the accessory wire will do the job, because the series 2 H/U has something in it that lets you turn it on, even when the keys are out of the ignition - hence the problem. It turns itself off after an hour or so, which would be related to the "staying on until the door opens" prob. Im pretty sure the accessory line doesn't have power when the keys are out of the ignition??

Where we got to this morning -they are going to replace the existing LOC with a better quality Focal LOC that has better sound, and has signal sensing built in with a remote power on. So we are still converting with the LOC because the signal sensing isn't on the RCAs, (hopefully not too much sound degradation there), and then the focal locs will tell the amp to turn on (hopefully without a pop), and then when i turn the car off, the amp will stay on until the signal stops - hence solving the issue of it staying on until i open the door.

Fingers crossed, ill let you know how it goes.

 

[Woollie]

I have had the RCA mod done by Phreddy which really helps the sound quality. I have the same problem when switching the car off though, turn the key off no sound but stereo still on. I just live with that. If someone finds a better remote wire location I would be very interested in knowing what it is.

BTW, when I had the RCA mod done Phreddy creates one at the back of the stereo but I found that the IQ system doesn't shut off straight away (was taking about 10 seconds) and when it did I had a massive thump through the speakers so I changed it to the accessories wire. It is a bit of a pain but when I listen to the stereo the car is usually running anyway.

Hope this helps...

Would like to know how you go also.

 

[SUP3RST4R_DJ]

My factory H/U can be turned out with the key too, and my amp rem is connected to the accessories wire at the back of the H/U and the amp can still be turned on, funny that it's different in the series 2 ve

Let us know how you go with the focal locs

 

[pooley79]

My factory H/U can be turned out with the key too, and my amp rem is connected to the accessories wire at the back of the H/U and the amp can still be turned on, funny that it's different in the series 2 ve

Let us know how you go with the focal locs

Hmm, interesting you don't have the same problem ... makes me wonder....

Alright, here is the story thus far...

Focus locs in, still makes a very small popping sound every now and then ... but the locs sound BAD. To some it might not matter, but to me it feels like I am going back to a tape deck. The mids have been pushed up to the point they muffle the overall sound, the dynamics have been flattened out (compressed by the locs maybe??) and the long bass notes have become a bit distorted. Oh yeah, and the highs are distorting too.

I'm going to go back to the guys on Monday and get them to go back to where it was. The amp-on "pop" will be a bit louder, but the sound of the music will be a million times better.

So key learnings for me are

- Get an amp with high end inputs with signal sensing if you are going with a factory h/u - you might have some issues when powering on, but the sound loss will be minimal.
- Dont use LOCs - they destroy the sound, and the louder you have it, the more obvious it is...

Anyway, thanks for your help. Hopefully others can read/comment/learn from it!!

Cheers,
Pooley.

 

[pooley79]

I have had the RCA mod done by Phreddy which really helps the sound quality. I have the same problem when switching the car off though, turn the key off no sound but stereo still on. I just live with that. If someone finds a better remote wire location I would be very interested in knowing what it is.

BTW, when I had the RCA mod done Phreddy creates one at the back of the stereo but I found that the IQ system doesn't shut off straight away (was taking about 10 seconds) and when it did I had a massive thump through the speakers so I changed it to the accessories wire. It is a bit of a pain but when I listen to the stereo the car is usually running anyway.

Hope this helps...

Would like to know how you go also.

Thanks for the info, check out where im up to below. I reckon the RCA mod is probably the way to go at some point...

Anyway, for the problems I've had, will be good to get back to the original sound - Alpine R splits sound awesome ;-)

 

[SUP3RST4R_DJ]

I still think you should ask if you can use the high level inputs on the amp without the signal sensing and find a accessories wire that comes on with the H/U whatever way you turn it on

I've seen a lower end amp have the signal sensing through high level inputs but still have the optional acc turn on

 

[pooley79]

What you have suggested here would be gold, the guys have told me the wire doesn't exist and that you can't turn signal sensing off on this particular amp.

The acc turn on is optional, but they said it still popped. Not sure about this, im thinking once they put it back i can experiment myself.

I might call a few shops who know a bit more about the IQ system - and have done it a few times before. Issue i've got is i don't want these guys experimenting on my car if they don't really know what they are doing. They've already had 3 goes at it!

The saga continues....

 

[Welsh-Ste]

Hi,
I've been reading this site ever since i bought my first Commodore a few weeks ago.I'm from the UK( the name is probably a give away) and haven't been here long but loving it especially the commodore !
I have a 2011 Series 2 SV6 Sportwagon and i'm in the middle of doing a few mods,stereo,wheels,lowering,tint etc and was going to 'show my ride when i'd finished but spotted this predicament and thought i'd just let you know that i've had my system upgraded and it's running perfect.
I used Polk DB6501 splits up front,DB651's in rear doors, Rockford Fosgate T-400 Power Series 4 channel amp,a fusion super slim active sub and the LOC i used is an AudioControl LC6i 6 Channel.
The sound is perfect,no popping like you're experiencing and the sound stays on when you turn the ignition off,only turning off when you open the door.The LOC i'm using is probably a bit more expensive,about $180 on ebay from the States or $250 here(I got lucky and bought off a guy in Adelaide who was selling a new one he didn't get round to using himself) I did my research before hand and this LOC doesn't seem to lose anything in sound quality and i'm really pleased with the full set up.
I didn't install myself,i got it fitted at Autobarn in Dandenong and the guy did a great job so if you're unsure about a couple of things the stereo installer guy(sorry forgot his name) seems a nice professional bloke and might advise you.
Sorry i couldn't advise you with what he did myself but good luck and hopefully i'll get a few pictures up soon,

Ste