Vs turbo ute build 4l60 or glide or t56

[LSV MALOUF]

Just trying to figure out the most viable and economical box for a torquey l36 obviously I'm sick of stock 4l60e's even with b and m shift kit their days are numbered usually with 2 digits I'm just finding it hard to justify spending a grand on a converter for one of these when that's a big slice off the price of a clutch for t56 or glide conversion I know that there is plenty of tough l36 set ups out there so any advice on most economic path to take would be great currently I have a best 1/4 mph of 115 but now I'm running a larger turbo delayed shifts and slip has it back to 100

 

[_R_J_K_]

Depends on what you want. If your goal is simply strip times then the autos are going to come out on top with the 4L60e letting it be streetable, not so much streetability for the Powerglide. T56 is tough and fun but you will sacrifice strip time.

You also will need to factor in the costs of actually getting other transmissions into the car too. Adapter plates and tail shafts for the Powerglide and T56, another torque converter for the Powerglide and it's associated shifter assembly etc...

 

[EYY]

Have a 4L60e built properly.

 

[losh1971]

A good 4L60e is built not bought. People hang **** on the 4l60e but if they are built well they can be decent.

 

[losh1971]

A well built 4L60e can take some hard shifts no worries because when done right they use stronger internals. I'm going to have mine done at some point as I want a shift enhancement kit fitted. The tech recommend he build me a strong box before shift kitting it as the old internals might not be up to the task and could end up in failure.

 

[bevzan]

i did powerglide conversion 2 years ago.
trans and converter (2400 stall, manualsed, trans brake 1000hp rating) just under 5k
tail shaft $1400
shifter/crossmember/cooler/pan/sensors approx 2k
plus add another 500ish for MOD plate.
I am no where near 1000hp so it should hold up longer than previous getrag or 4l60

 

[LSV MALOUF]

Thanks for the advice guys I should have mentioned that I am a mechanic and fabricator and can make and mod pretty much any thing my biggest restrictions are budget and location the car has been constantly evolving over the last 2 years it's first set up with .63 turbo and full stock motor was able to 0 to 100 in 5.5 sec and easy high 13s the new .82 makes heap more top end but no launch now and I'd rather not say the et i am building a high rpm high boost forged and balanced l36 so the next box will have to take it it is a daily but will be taken to the local sprints hence the t56 idea but would loose the bench seat and column shift part of the shitbox sleeper style I'm in qld south Burnett and have been looking for a decent auto builder for a long time no names mentioned but I have had a few done for customers with mixed results most I have spoken to believe that a lil v6 like this doesn't need a strong box like a v8 even though this pulls away from a gts on low boost and with out slip and on 15 psi it's making about 200 kw and at 20psi the box goes stupid and dangerous it slips in 3rd then grabs then the 205s go smokey anyone in qld southeast that really knows how to bulletproof a 4l60e you might have a new client

 

[LSV MALOUF]

This 4l60e had started slipping bad a year ago and despite recommendations not to fit a stage 2 shift kit I did it any way it firmed up the shifts on a dying box and I was able to put another 25000 k on it for $150 and $20 worth of dex6 and $20 for some Lucas this trans has had a hard life including neutral bombs in a n/a paddock basher I would set up an auto building room if I had the time and space and learn the tricks myself but that life thing keeps getting in the way

 

[LSV MALOUF]

Another thing I was told by many I cannot do is run more than 14 psi on a maf well 15 is low and 20 is high have run 25 but no grip on 205s 98 octane stock ecu only have 36 lb injectors and I modified a ebay fpr800 from 1:1 to 4:1 rising rate so mixtures are crudely adjusted by fuel pressure and a idle air bypass also full factory bolts graphite gaskets I slightly reduced compression by relieving 5cc off each quench point in the chambers when I ported the heads and put 130lb springs in plus top ring gapped I've got a stack of dead pistons usually a lean out or too much boost for stock valve springs I've also got a home made mechanical/ electric high boost extra fuel input or a 7th injector but uses a fuel solenoid off the rail to a 3 needle nitro rc carby actuated by a wastegate actuator and emission nazis need not reply my injection and lack of catalytic converter is not the planets biggest problem

 

[LSV MALOUF]

These posts were hopefully helping me to make my mind up 4l60e most logical but looks like most expensive option for me unless I find a built one cheap I can do an engine conversion on a friends pick up as payment receive the t56 out of it or a glide with 4 k stall then just have to make em fit but still would rather 4l60 r j k u seem to have the right idea and for self control reasons I best stay away from the manual all manuals are drift cars! There's no cost to me for linkages ect because I'd just fab it up and I love glides but do daily it I just robbed the 3.45 centre out of my bt1 because the Utes 3.07 needed pinion bearing