Recent content by robbhibb

It lives! You were right on it Nut Cracker. I Traced the burnt wire down and then hooked an earth from the battery and still nothing. Then I linked it into that junction and away we go. Sounds a bit rattly in the bottom end but having sat for a year now I am hoping a service will do the job...

Ta mate haven't had a chance to have a good look at it but in the middle I have traced the totally burned wire down under the battery into a joiner which branches out 6 times

Hi guys and gals I finally got some time to look further. I am getting fault codes so the PCM appears to be ok and the door remote and alarm work so that indicates BCM should be fine. Lifted up the relay box and found two burnt wires coming from the 86 terminal of the engine cont. relay. One is...

no the loom looks ok

It was running so the wiring must all be there. At first problem was it would not crank over jumped power to the starter solanoid and it run but now it cranks from the key but will not start. I am just being stubborn as any sensible person would have paid someone to fix it or binned it

That is my major problem it was a dodgy but which is the EFI relay? None of the wiring diagrams I have downloaded match so I am just chasing my tail with no idea where to start

I have checked all the fuses and replaced all the relays. I have power at all of the terminals at the ignition switch and none at any terminal at the ignition module. I have power at the dash and lights radio etc. Jxfwsf told me to check for voltage at f5 and f8 at the pcm but I have no wiring...

Hi all Jxfwsf has been a huge help with this a massive thanks to you. He suggested that I use one thread for all of my post so I am going to start from the start. Got it for bugger all I was told it had a stuffed auto. I went out and had a look and it was in a paddock but ran so got it towed...

have checked your wheel bearings running big rims and tyres wears them out quicker

Hi all back again I finally got around to testing the ignition module and have no power across the pins. I am now leaning to a PCM fault. As it is super charged with the removeable PROM do I need to replace the bcm and key fob as well?

That valve is only used for static testing as it bypasses the regulator and can not be used driving. You will have have a T piece made to fit between the fuel rail and the feed line. This will have to be custom made to suit your gauges lines and be mechanical or big bucks to fit a dummy injector...

sounds like tread seperation. Cheap tyres are prone to it especially if they have poor or uneven pressures and no alignment. Very dangerous at speed if they let go they let go hard!

Hey all back again got the beast to crank over but still no spark or pulse. Did fault codes yesterday and got 23 air temp sensor volts high 31 theft deterrent signal missing 46 crank angle sensor will not start 67 torque converter on-off solenoid 69 torque converter clutch stuck on 72 vehicle...

yes you need a matched bcm ecu and key check the colours on your ecu plugs I may be able to help you out

it is grey when I check it comes up with 500 plus ohms on the negative and continuity to positive on the battery and there is orange silicon hanging out of the inhibitor switch