We sold our VY Calais with 340k on the clock. Honestly ran fine. Might have used about half a litre of oil every 10k but thats about it.
I did give the suspension and brakes a birthday at about 250k though.
The seats and door locks / hinges were about the only things that were getting tired on...
Had 2 Eatons now in VY series cars.
The first was a bit clunky but it was behind a cranky manual. Still performed mint.
Current one in the Monaro is a lot better.
Powertrax look like a torsen style which is what the Eaton/Harrop units are. They will still single up if they get super low...
This mod might make the car at least drivable until you can sort it out properly. Or leave it as is to be hectic! lol
For my knowledge, can you just swap bellhousings on the 60e's to go from ecotec to LS1 / 5L??
If you don't put up who done your tune, how can people research like you said? If old mate has done a **** tune, wont or can't fix it, put it out there so other people who may not be in the know don't get burnt.
You turning the ignition the right way? Our series 3 turned 'left' to glow the plugs then back to the right to start.
The diesel in that must have been healthy as it never needed them providing it was driven a few times a week.
Helical gear driven LSD center. Acts like a normal open diff under normal driving conditions but will transfer power to a slipping/spinning wheel when it happens almost instantly.
Does it have any coolant in it? Has the cooling system been bled? Not sure on the procedure or if its required for a alloytec.
Does it cool down if you bring the revs up a bit whilst sitting still? If so, the water pump might be shagged.
Giving them a refresh / rebuild isn't that hard and pretty cheap if they aren't worn or making any noises.
Simply you pry the end cap off (it's just pressed on), remove a circlip and that will let the cv slide off the axle.
Remove the boot and give the axle and cv a good clean. Refit new...
I dont think the BCM can be changed like that. You need to physically change it to the high spec unit along with linking it or getting the matching ECU.
Maybe the weight transfer as you swing your hectic hellies is causing one wheel to unload enough that the diff is opening up like it's got no resistance on it to make the diff work correctly.
Hall sensor in dizzy.
Coil.
Ignition module.
Coolant temp sensor for ECU.
All these things can make it do what you saying.
Try a vacuum gauge on it. Very handy old school tool will give you some clues.
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2016/03/31/vac-visual-quick-guide-vacuum-gauge-readings/