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Once the wheel was back on, and the car had been gently lowered off the jack, there was no access to tighten the nuts with the tools I have, so back up it went. Now I'm off to get an alignment done. Thanks to all who gave advice. Who would have thought that a 3-nut job would be such a drama?

Thanks again - very timely advice, as I am now re-assembling. For the benefit of others who are as inexperienced as I am, a gas torch is probably necessary to break down the locktite in the rear nut that attaches the Z bar to the arm. Stop a the first hint of burning rubber smell! Try to remove...

The best thing about being tortured is that great feeling when it stops. I had a long piece of steel hollow section, say square pipe. It was the best tool of the lot. (I had the pivot bolt loosely back in) On my back, under the car I could use it as a ram onto the bullseye. From the same...

Having no luck at all getting the ball joint bolt out. Persevering...

Thanks; as I am in the middle of a financial nightmare right now, I picked up a second-hand control arm with a tight ball joint in place. $45 already removed (plus over 3 hours of time walking and on public transport). Underwood Wrecking (Brisbane) Hopefully I can do the swap today and move on...

Good points. I am not sure what "they earn nearly 100% of the sales towards their wage" means , though.

Thanks mate; you have the attitude that makes this site great.

Whatever that is.. That might be helpful, but I have no idea what a porto is, and a google search did not help. (Yes it's an old thread) I'm not sure if some of the above are actually talking about removing the ball joint from the control arm. I was looking for some help removing and replacing...

"If ignorance is bliss why aren't there more happy people around ?" I don't know :D

I (stupidly?) stopped putting fluid in my leaky power steering and the pulley packed it in - that pulley seems to be lubricated by the fluid. If you just have the pulley, it might dry up.

Thanks to all. This site is great.

VN V6 holden commodore auto transmission automatic gearbox | Engine, Engine Parts & Transmission | Gumtree Australia Logan Area - Loganlea

I depend on my old series 1 to get me to jobs. It gets into 3rd, but when I slacken off the throttle (eg downhill) it then behaves almost as if it is neutral. If I slow down and drop into 2nd manually, this keeps me going and I can can then get back to 3rd until the load drops off again...

Does this have anything to do with why VpV6 got banned? It's a shame after he has contributed so much, including some very helpful detailed how-to's.

I have a great VN S1 6 motor in a crap car, and can get a great S2 6 car with a dud motor. The gearbox on the S1 is crap. Will the S1 motor go straight in to the S2 car?? If so, this will save me a lot of money and trouble. Thanks guys!

for all the trouble it is causing you, you must be considering replacing the tank, complete with pump, at this point. Note that the series 1 tank is different.

ITEM: VN6 Series 1 Timing Sprocket (the small one that fits on the crankshaft) LOCATION: QLD but post is ok CONDITION: Good used or cheap new DELIVERY/PICK UP INFORMATION:Will pay postage or, if close to Brisbane, will pick up . PAYMENT OPTIONS: Direct Deposit or your preference...

For later readers of this thread- Take out the oil light sender, pour about 200ml oil down the hole and while someone briefly starts it up. If oil squirts back out, the pump works, if not, it's either the pump or the pickup. If you've been good with regular oil changes, it's probably the pump.

Hmmm... taking off the sump is ridiculously difficult; you might as well take the engine out. All the designers had to do was to make the tin sump at the front removeable with bolts, but no - it's molded on to the alloy sump and you have to take off the steering rack etc. BUT: I took out the oil...

I've had all kinds of trouble with VN locks, so good to read all the above. I'm just wondering how to get graphite powder into a lock. I'm surprised enough that dust can get in there.

So under the car I go! I'm hoping to see a blocked pickup, given the alternatives. How much oil will I need?

Thanks, Greenfoam, - you mean not even around the block eh? Excuse my ignorance- the oil light ONLY means ENGINE oil prob? Or includes gearbox oil? Could the pressure sensor itelf be the prob.?

My oil light came on. The engine was making a noise, kind of harssh, with some tappet noise. I put more oil in without checking level first. I checked the oil and found that it had been (probably alread) too full. I drained some oil, getting the reading back to normal on the dipstick. Test...

If the battery took 1/2 litre of water, it wouldn't be properly charged up yet, and may be damaged. But then.. your dad's (smaller) battery didn't help. Are both batteries old? When you say "eh..3 seconds" is this a click or a slight turn-over?

"just be very careful when tuning the amp as clipping (distortion) at even 50wrms can potentially damage your speakers." That's right; if you overdrive the amp you can blow your speakers at lower than their rating; go the fuses just to be sure.

If the amp is more powerful than the speakers, it is capable of blowing them up, but fuses in the speaker lines prevent this. It starts sounding like crap before it is at the stage of blowing the speakers, so provided you ease the volume up to test with a cd you are familiar with, you should be...

" i reckon its the little pump inside the tank that pumps fuel towards the fuel pump itself." Isn't the little pump inside the tank the only fuel pump? ( I think "buttload" is a corruption of "busload" )

I'm no guru, but I'd next be spraying some contact cleaner on all the contacts pertaining to the dissy. Are the internal contact points nice and shiny? Next would be testing the spark plug leads themselves. Use a cheap continuity tester or a multimeter set on ohms. If you have neither, check...

Fuel Return Line Thanks for the quick reply. I'm learning all the time; it seems we are talking about the return line. I read on some other thread that it is connected inside the tank to some kind of bowl (?) indicating that just soldering it back on on the outside might not work? I'm still...

Hi Guys, My VN S1 wagon was diagnosed with low fuel pressure, so I had a look under the tank. There was a slow drip from near a hose. (see photo) This hose attached to the tank on the driver's side, low, and at the front of the tank. I gave the hose clamp a wiggle to see if it was loose, and...

Re the guy that said removal of bellmouth caused snapped camshaft. Hard to be sure there is a relationship between the two. These tend to snap anyway at about 300 000 from fatigue fracture; the replacement is a better design and lasts longer.

Don't rage me pls, my expertise is in other things, but all tis would make more sense if I knew what a TB was. Throttle Booster? Is the IAC valve the same thing as the Idle Motor as someone said above? This is a great site - I'm learning fast.

AN old thread but always relavent. My mech said the idle motor can do with a clean out after 300k. I don't even know what it is tho - trying to find out

My VN blew a DFI, the O2 sensor, and a water pump within a few days. Of course we all know the cam snaps after 300 000 - been there; at least the replacement is a better design and will last. My radiator hoses are going spongey so I will replace them as well. Apparently a lot of people forget...

LOMBARD: Lots of money, but a real d***head

Q What's wet and clammy? A A clam A crow walks into a bar, he says "ouch!" - it was a crow bar. A grasshopper walks into a bar. The barman says, "Hey we've got a drink named after you!" The grasshopper says " ok boys, the Erics are on me!" A giraffe walks into a bar and says "The...

While all you exhaust guys are here, can someone tell me if a crook exhaust replacement could cause an over-rich mix and sooty plugs?

My motor runs rich and soots up the (new and previous) plugs almost immediately. The car starts cold, and stalls after one block. This came on after some recent work; Just before the problem, I had my exhaust sytem replaced, some new bits some 2nd hand. Could an exhaust system problem...

After the suggestion that bypassing cats would cause the mix to go rich, I am wondering if this relates to my present problem. Since getting my exhaust system replaced, my motor runs rich and soots up the (new and previous) plugs almost immediately. Other recent changes were change of...

Could it be as simple as belt not threaded correctly? Worth a double check.