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You've mentioned everything but the water pump there.

Ranger danger much.

Pull the cluster out and check connections to the LCD, sometimes moisture builds up behind them too. Lots of them do the fade. Worst case take it out and bring it to an instruments shop. I'm not an electronics guru by any means so someone else might be able to steer you better.

Not showing how? LCD is completely dead or K are not winding over?

I replaced my water pump at 200k, now on 250k (touch wood) no issues at all. Time will tell I guess. GMB pump. I stood away from Gates.

This came up in my new posts for some reason so I will reply 3 years later. Yes! The eBay struts are still perfect, they feel very firm on opening and after halfway the bonnet pops itself up and stays there. Still feel good as when first purchased.

I can attest to the Penrite cleaner, our Mazda started getting the sulfur/rotten egg smell, possibly blocked/defective cat. Ran a bottle of the Penrite through it before a trip to Ballarat with fresh fuel, haven't had a problem since. Engine revving smoother, and it's quietened the exhaust down...

I replaced mine, then it failed again 2 years later, it's a fault in design with these barrells. They keep ******* up. I did this from this video I found, issue solved, will never stick again and bonus is the steering wheel still locks after you take the key out.

Yeah find a different auto elec.

Can anyone specify the correct part for an 02 vx 3.8 please? I am having some flat spot issues and believe the TPS is the culprit after going through all the usual suspects.

Totally different companies. Delkor are made in Korea owned by Clarios. Look them up and check the brands under them.

I've said it before I'll say it again, the best batteries in terms of quality and value for money is Delkor. All of my cars have them and they last and last. One of them has been in the Mazda for 4 years now and still cranks on a cold day like it's a brand new battery.

Drill that tab out and it will never happen again. I guarantee you'll get a new barrell and be doing the same job again in a few years.

That YouTube video worked a charm for me. I had my barrell replaced 2 years ago and it did it again a few months ago. The barrell feels better than new now. **** paying a locksmith $300 bucks to come out and do a 15 min job.

I reckon that's out of an old Toyota corona.

Grab the Adrad radiator on eBay for your vehicles. I've found they last forever and a day if you maintain your cooling system regularly.

May I make a suggestion? Grab yourself one of these. The best batteries I've used on all my cars. They last for years. https://www.delkor.com/products/product-details/ln2---60efb

You've thrown the parts cannon at it but not looked at the most obvious thing. Injectors.

My leg hurts does anyone know why? Come on man, more info.

That was actually a good story to read.

Great you got back with a resolution for everyone. Thanks.

Where you buying from ?

Fuel pump? What about the knock sensors themselves? Timing? You gotta check these things too if you haven't already.

Best machine since sliced bread! We've had ours a few years now the Bissell spot clean turbo. Done our cars, mates cars, carpets, couches. I highly recommend one.

Sulfur smell hydrogen sulphide is 100% cat not doing its job properly and converting it into dioxide. If it's not doing it all the time and once in a while I wouldn't worry. But if doing so regularly check things like fuel filter or even a dodgy O2 sensor, and replace first as it's not always...

If you have an aftermarket alarm on it then I would hazard a guess and say the control unit is stuffed, considering you said it goes off without reason. I had a car do this to me while driving, would just randomly go off until it cut out on a freeway once. Lucky for you it happened in your...

I'm with greenacc try a different battery first. Simple things, don't start swaptronics yet. How did you test the battery?

What a ****. Had to be said. I'll keep an eye out. Sorry to hear.

It will fit I had one on my VT Olympic that I had years ago....

Perhaps rod knock after a thrash? Who knows, post a vid.

Yeah. Nah.

Don't use brake cleaner on maf please. The little filament in there is extremely sensitive and brake cleaner destroys everything. Use MAF cleaner only.

That's great that you came back with the solution for other users to find in the future.

Simple things first, maf, vac leaks etc.

For a competent honest mechanic it's about 150 in labour to do. The Commodore is about one of the simplest "modern" cars left to work on imo.

I wanna be the number one bogan in Austraaaayyyaaaa!!!!

100% this is a piss take...

It's the clock spring dude. Replace with a known GENUINE working or new. Don't mess about with eBay jobs you'll be replacing it in 12 mths again. Job done.

This may sound stupid but have you checked the actual battery itself is good. Friend of mine called me 2 weeks ago with the same issue on a VR. Would start but not run just die instantly. Replaced with a known good working battery and voila. Sometimes it's the simplest things that can be...

Too big can make it squeal. You might have some oil or something greasy on the pulleys also causing it. Check the tensioner there are marks on it which indicate too loose or too tight. Have a look at your pulleys as well are they moving freely? If one is seized or not moving freely you maybe...