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Check the earth's Know that sounds like beating a dead horse, but check the earth's, fuses, relays and wires. Just went though the excruciating process of "fixing" a fuel problem, to find out 3 months and nearly 1200 bucks later it a loose earth. If the car has a few k's on it, through wear and...

Yeah. Probably sounds about right. It is a fairly new battery, but was having ignition issues earlier this year, and spent a lot of time cranking from this battery. I charged it several times during that period. The diagnostic tool I have has a battery connector. When I changed the wiring, I...

Realised it's been a while, but was testing some things out. So even with the new wiring (2awg) the new alternator was "failing". Although it would not throw any codes, the voltage through the car would drop bellow 12, and stay there for some time. Decided to put the old alternator back in, as...

So changed the wiring today and with the new alternator, still a large voltage drop once the car is at running temp. Although my in cab volt gauge was reading 13.8/9v for the first time. I have a SaaS volt gauge in the cab, wired to the cigarette lighter harness behind the stereo, which I see...

Yeah will have a look tomorrow. Will also check the cluster plug. Weird how that might affect it, but after reading that thread, I'm willing to give it a shot.

No idea. Haven't done a scan with the failure showing. Just pops up with "alternator failure". Sometimes it pops up just long enough for the warning to sound, and then disappears. Other times it hangs around a bit. For the longer ones, my volt gauge drops to below 12v. But I can't really say...

Done a bit more research, and tried a few things out... Leaning towards faulty regulator. Seems to run fine on startup, but after travelling to work, will throw a code as I drive through the carpark. I have tried running tests on the battery and voltage checks across the system after starting...

Adrad. Bought from an auto online store I've used before many times, as Ive had issues with eBay parts in the past. And I went new. Been trying to improve the car where I can when parts fail.

Was seeing big voltage drops with the original alternator (sometimes below 13v). Decided to reaplce the alternator and upgrade at the same time as I want to put in a dual battery system (not yet installed). Put in 120a one and install is straight forward. However, still have the same voltage...

Only the car key, the glove box key and my gym fob. Not big on having things dangling on the key. Yeah. Dam. Was hoping I wouldn't have to.

Posted this on an older thread, but read on that thread that the barrels are subject to failing when out in heat, which is kind of a bummer cause my car is parked outside at home and work. Is there a way to fix without replacing the barrel? It just seems to be the locking pin at the rear of the...

Bit of a dig, but didn't want to start a new thread. Given this is the issue, is there any fix? Have replaced the barrel twice in the last 24 months, and it looks like this is the issue. Due to parking at work and home, the ute spends most it's time outside. Can't really afford to replace...

So the coils are the ones that were in the car when I bought it. All been working for the last 2.5yrs.... I think they're just old. It does come up with the code your saying... Is p03--something something. With the code it also comes up with text "coil E circuit failure/open" or something like...

.... Update..... Finally got the car running, and the fuel pump working. Turns out the pump wasn't priming due to a loose ground point, which I had overlooked. Got that fixed and we had fuel being delivered. Was still getting a failure of all 6 coils. On a whim, I decided to re-install the old...

Just got mine running, but it's coming up with check powertrain. The thing is though, the warning keeps turning on and off every few seconds. Plugged the scanner in and it's showing coil 'e' being a problem. Would that be why the powertrain warning keeps turning on and off?

Yes it is. And a lot of other things too. When I did the cooling system late last year, took me 4hrs to get the thermostat out and back in....

Yeah well when he said cool drive I kind of puckered cause I almost sent mine there.. the only thing that stopped me is they don't so retail.. trade only Yeah will give it a go.

Yeah right. I'll send the car in first and see what they come back with. Just don't have the money to keep throwing around and it not working .. wife is getting pretty unhappy

Yeah nah sorry. Wasn't a Commodore forum. Think ICM is the ignition control module. From the pdf that @lout sent through, think it's controlled by the ecu on these. The pdf also talked about the start and run procedures.

Runs rough and then stalls. It all happens within like a second. So it'll increase revs for the load, then go to drop like it normally does, but instead of coming back to idle, it shakes a quite bit and dies. Does the same thing if I rev it.

Yeah would seem that way. Bit of an update though. Only just started getting a svs notice on the dash. Plugged in the scanner and had all coils fail except pack 'D'... Cleared the codes and started it again, and after stalling got the same svs. Doing some research and another forum suggested it...

Yeah. Just did. Same result.

Yeah that's what @Fu Manchu was suggesting as well. I tried a few things this yesterday that I'd read through other threads. So the keyless works, so it recognises the key. I took the ring off and gave it a light sanding. Also inspected all the wires at the back of the ignition, and couldn't...

So the problem: Car will crank and start but will not run. The car starts fine, even runs pretty smooth a few seconds after start, but after the 'start' the engine stalls. I can also tap the throttle and get rev out of the motor, immediately after start, but then the engine cuts out straight...

Yeah no worries. Was planning on posting once it was all fixed, what the actual fix was. Found a thread with what sounded like a similar problem. However, the solution was never posted. Think the OP got too caught up in something someone else was trying to explain, and the one person who might...

Short answer no. There is no logo on it. Got it replaced about 6moths ago from Mr minit. Tried the original key, and samething. Think this has gone beyond what I am capable of diagnosing with my experience. Will try and get it to a shop and get someone to properly look at it.

Yeah. Thinking I might have to take it to a shop. The key/fob battery are near new. Reconnected the battery and can still lock and unlock fine from the keyless, so it recognises it atleast. Will have to wait for the battery to charge again to try with it in neutral.

Yeah. By the looks of it all the relays are from factory. Have been swapping only the ones with the same part numbers on them.

So update. Is not the fuel pump or filter. Just replaced both and still having the same issue. When the car is "on" I cannot hear the fuel pump priming before start. Tried jumping the relay and am getting noise from the pump as soon as the ignition is on, however, still having the same issue...

Nah so on the crewman it is in tank. But was wrong about not being able to change it. Other posts I'd read on the forum, while doing other jobs said that it was part of the assembly.

Fuel filter is in tank. Have to replace the entire assembly to change it. While testing this afternoon, I got an svs code. Plugged in the scanner to have a look and all 6 coils "failed" so I'm leaning towards the ecu. Will have another look at the pump before I send it off.

Nah. Unfortunately the tester I have doesn't have the adapter's for it.

Yeah would look that way. When the engine dies though, could still here the pump running.

Alrighty.. Jumped the relay and got noise from the pump. Tried to start the car with the jump in, still cutting out at the same point

Will give it a go. Spoke to the fellas down at Repco as well this morning. A few of them have experience with commodores. Said to also check/test the maf sensor, and maybe the ecu. But that'll be last resort.

Have got into the tank. Tested the pump and all seems fine. However couldn't see/hear the pump prime before starting. Fuel pump runs fine when cranking (accidentally shot fuel everywhere), but just doesn't seem to want to work when "running".

Perfect. This gives me a good starting point for today. Am planning on going through the entire car and testing everything to make sure it's working. Atleast with this test I can eliminate a few things.

Tried to have a look at dfi, and where it's located. Looks like it was something on the ecotecs. Couldn't find anything in them in the alloytecs. Any I deal where it's located?

Yeah. Done multiple scans. No fault codes. The only codes I got was when I forgot to plug back in the throttle controller Dam... That's a list. Battery is good. Have done all that, and its brand new. Looking to get in and check fuel pump/pressure tomorrow. As well as the O2 sensors. Just ran...

Just an update. It seems to be happening at exactly the same moment everytime. I have a volt gauge and noticed that it seems to be happening when the motor switches from battery to alternator (volts go from 12 to 13, revs go up, engine dies). Would this indicate an electrical problem?