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Avoid FIT and that website ! Steve and the guys at MACE have quality gear, fast delivery and are super helpful.

Spot on answer in my opinion. The Op was at fault for not taking due care reversing, but patience from the other driver may have avoided the incident. . We have horns in our cars for a reason. Just my 2c

Unfortunately you are at fault in this situation, but it illustrates a all to common lack of courtesy between drivers on our streets.

Have you checked for vac leaks ? Maybe check for perished hoses and small cracks. Just a thought.

This was happening to my Calais (l67) few months back. It's would happen randomly, and never when I was trying to get diagnosed. It developed into not stating when cold in the morning. I ended up changing the CAS and it's cleared the problem up. Not sure if the CAS was causing the initial issue...

Is it getting fuel ?

Pure weapon mate, nice work !

I used a bolt for the hose that needs to be blocked and small piece of stocking for the hose that needs to breath.

You'll find the info your looking for on L67torque, once you can get on there. Check the sticky " L67 Bible " to direct you to the relevant info your looking for. Deleting the solenoid itself is straight forward, just double check the diagram to make sure you block the right hose. There has...

As far as I'm aware there isn't any affect to the motor by deleting the solenoid. If it is functioning correctly you won't see any gains, it's only to eliminate loss of boost.

What's your plans for it ?

My father in law busted Both front tyres in his Maloo last month on Tilley Rd in Gumdale up here in Brisbane. Had to get towed, he drove back in his wife's car and took photo's of the road to document the incident. The pothole was 3/4 the height of a coke can and took up 1 and a half lanes ...

Yeah straight swap if you haven't stuffed the locating points.

As said above go with a later model rear assembly, will give toe adjustment that the VT's lacked, but as said check everything. That's a decent wack !

Can't hurt, unless you have a reaction. It's function is to reduce the severity if and when you catch a bug. Less time contagious, less time to spread to others. Also less stress on the hospital system should you have complications. Personal hygiene is what helps not catch the bug in the...

Usually you would, will get the engine breathing a lot better. Best way to look at it is you've got more flow out so the restriction point is now the intake of air. It's a point of debate whether running a panel or pod filter is a better, I have a K&N panel in my L67, but others run pod's and...

Have you upgraded the air intake aswell ?

I have 245/35r19 all round on my VX no problems. Problem I found with some 235's is the load rating was to low for our cars, running such a low profile on unsuitably rated tyres with the condition of our roads is asking for trouble.

Try climbing in the back, pull the card off the lid and try manually working the mech. Could have jammed

Out of interest, when you say engine failure, what's wrong with it ?

Have you considered upgrading to a L67 ?

Sounds like it went it " limp home " mode. The ECU thought there was a major engine fault and took steps to protect it.

Have you checked for codes ? Might narrow it down. Checked for vac leaks ? Could be any number of things, TPS sensor, IAC Valve.

Yeah not at this stage, there's 1 in SA for 3.5g white also. Like I said I'm not in a rush to start so I can wait for the right car. I posted mainly to get some info and a guide to common issues to avoid problems down the track. Learnt my lesson when I picked my VX, should have bought a series...

Hoped it wouldn't come to that, but finding unmolested 5L VQ's up here in Brisbane is harder than first thought. There's 1 in our local rag but the guy wants 10g for it ! 55000, straight as a die, small cam and exhaust. Well over priced !! Still think my 5g budget should get me soild start...

Slim pickings online, might have to hit the local bowls clubs and do some wheeling and dealing. Seems there are 2 options, finished projects or unrego'd Junkers. Need to find that sweet spot in the middle, complete body no rust, genuine stock then rebuild the motor. Budget is 5g initially then...

Time has come to start a new project, Iv always liked the 5L and am considering picking up a VQ Statesman. Iv read through a lot of the VQ " My Ride " threads and started looking around carsales and the like to check the market. To those that have experience with them, what are the things to...

Couple of different ways to be done. 1 way is to gut the m90 housing and pull the snout and use a blocking plate. But there are issues with boost pressure. Another way is to use a L36 LIM with the injector bungs welded shut. All info found on ZZPerfromance site.

What setup you using josh ? A2A or W2A ?

Good to hear you sorted the issue. Yep sounds like belt slip, and it gets worst the smaller the pulley you run. Mace have a 8 rib system, but unless your going to cool it and run big boost I don't think it's worth the cost to covert it from 6 rib. Enjoy the boost !

Ahh ok, salvages lost boost yeah ? Interesting, sorry to get off OP topic but a mate's L67 has 10psi pulley but only reading 8 on the gauge. Bypass valve is fine and deleted the solenoid. Almost exact same setup as mine aswell, but mine reads full boost. Not that 2psi is going to make any...

Don't what to hijack the thread, but are the 5% overdrive balancers worth installing on a non-cooled motor ? Or is it just over kill ? Thought it was worth asking.

Have you checked the belts ? Get some audio of the noise, will help diagnose the problem.

Try taking the belt of the charger pulley and running the the motor. If the noise stops it's charger related, if not you got other issues. Why I asked pulley size is any thing smaller than 3.4 (10psi) without cooling can do damage to internals.

Hard to tell if it's the coupler, usually the rattle increases with the rev's. What size pulley are you running ?

Even with the 4 point kits if you go lower than SL it's still an issue. As mentioned VY IRS cradle is really the only sure fire fix.

Keen to see this up and running. Post the programming and some pic's once you've sorted the mounting. Good luck

+1 coil packs

There is a guide to removing VT/VX door cards in the " how to " section.

Iv been considering doing this conversion. Did the diff come with the subframe ? Is there any fitment issues with VY Diff and VX tailshaft ? How much did the subframe itself set you back ? Cheers