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Had the clutch in my old vx ss die in pretty much the exact same way yours did mate unfortunately your up for a new clutch kit I’d get a heavy duty with single mass flywheel if I were you

Could go the route of a 383 stroker LS1 mate, never actually tried one myself but would imagine it would be a lot more torque than a stock LS1 as long as you dont go too overboard with your cam specs

Won’t hurt to try it mate although if your lifters are gone the only real fix is replacing them, nulon lifter free is the additive you wanna use also have you cleaned the afm lifter screen thing under the oil pressure sensor?

I’m thinking it sounds like the crank angle sensor going out intermittently but that’s just a guess, could try replacement and see what happen?

Dfi module is on the v6, the LS1 doesn’t have one

You do realise theres a heck of a lot more to it then simply dropping in a manual transmission don’t you? There’s a lot of things that have to be changed to make it all work seriously you’d be better off selling yours and buying a manual car

Has the ecu and the bcm been electronically linked?

I’m no tuning expert but 102 octane in an sv6? What a waste of race fuel and I bet you couldn’t physically feel any difference when actually driving the thing

Yes agree that does sound a bit strange having to have 2 keys, the Holden stealership will rip you off and as above you can definitely get a new key for less than $600

I’d add fuel filter to that list

does it make the engine rev a bit more freely also? Probably not worth it just for 10hp odd

I wonder what sort of difference the higher ratio ones would make with the stock camshaft?

No L67 cars came factory with a manual option

The hpr10 is perfectly fine for your engine mate

probably poor quality or worn tyres or even a combination of the 2

If it were mine I’d use penrite hpr10, do a search of this site and you’ll find countless threads on what oil people run in their cars

Wheel muck is an awesome cleaner with a pressure washer

Can’t help with the tail shaft question but the std manual diff ratio is 3.45 I’d think your auto diff will be 2.92 and you could go to something like a 3.9 if you want more response also I’d think you would need the manual ecu for your conversion? Could be wrong on that and you’ll probably need...

Nice mate always wanted to do that with my old 5 litre (vr clubsport) when I had it, any plans to add a cold air tray or something like that?

Yea they changed their name after all the bad rap they got with pro comp but still the same company

Speedmaster aka pro comp, do a google search of that brand mate there’s a reason they are cheap

In my case it had only come away at the back a little bit so I just used some spray adhesive that I already had to glue it back up and seems to be holding well so no need to get it done just yet but will one day

I think he means redo the glue every 12 months as it’s a bandaid fix not a proper repair, I did this with my ve and seems to be holding up well

No need to go crazy with it mate, that’s the recommended torque for them

Should have the ss written on the seats, the options were between cloth and leather

There will be more owners that will want to hold on to there v8 commodores now there isn’t any new replacements being made in my opinion, I wanna keep my ve ss and maybe one day sell and buy a vf2

As in its cranking over but not starting?

If all you want is a bit more sound then a decent cat back exhaust would be the way to go, even better again a full system with extractors as well

As far as I know yes

Unless you can isolate which is the buggered one may just be a good idea to replace both

They have 2 knock sensors mate do you know which one you need to replace?

Most definitely can put a 3.46 diff in your ss mate and yes it will be an lsd just not a v6 one tho it won’t fit

What cam ya gonna for?

U gonna give the motor a freshen up mate?

I leave mine connected in the car with the charger on it (ve ss) and no issues with it

Kyb excel g’s are a decent shock without spending shitloads

Yea true the electrics in vr/vs models isn’t great anyhow

Seems a bit strange your having these issues after you had your new heads fitted? You sure the guy that fitted them hasn’t damaged something (electrical) in the process?

Apparently it’s reasonably common, almost a good enough excuse to cam it up while your in there checking it

There is instances in these engines where part of the plastic timing chain tensioner breaks off and ends up down in the sump partially blocking the pickup