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I have vs with central locking...all but one of the doors work!!!!! however if all locks up I can push faulty one down and the all go down...I think mechanism must be all good....my thought is relay switch???? would this be correct???? and how do you go about replacing them?????? thanks

awesome much appreciated thank you

I have replaced spark plugs just about to do leads and realised Im not sure which lead goes where from the coil pack. 97 vs v6 could some do a diagram of firing order??

Cheers hako I will have a look... I did have trans serviced 20,000km ago... I will prob make a start and go through the basics......how to I check coil pack??????? and leads?????? I will replace plugs I actually did leads 6mths ago so I would not suspect them.......I will clean my k & n panel...

only in 4th mate all other gears a fine!!!!!!! even 4th is fine once above 2000rpm.......would a trans service fix?????? if you still think that is the prob. im stll not sure I thinnk it may iac valve tired or airflow meter?????? I hope you have a fair idea of prob Hako coz I am stumped!!!!

forgot to mention, the car only has surges in 4th @ about 1700 - 1900 rpm @ 90 - 98km it has the occassional loss of power / miss for a split 2nd. It also usually only does this after at least half hour of open road driving....... Could the air filter be just dirty?????

My car has been surging for sometime...originally it brought up a fault code 35 so I cleaned throttle body and iac valve....and it went away......now the surging is back but the iac and throttle body is clean. Can anyone help please.....oh ocassionally there is a miss or two...complete loss...

could be a number of things, i think you need to narrow symptoms down more....

perhaps something to do with trans??? is it the gear change causing the surge???

9 x out of 10 it is the o ring....a 50 cent part!!!!!! and is very common

Quite possibly!!! I am aware of cost etc if it turns to custard thats why it is good having a spare!!!!

if I had to spend $90 on a key I would, But I like experimenting,,,, if we all paid pros all the time we probably would not have signed up on just commodores???

I dont see the harm in soldering on a new battery dr bob exspecially if you have two keys to begin with, may as well salavge one or experiment... I could think of allot better things to do with the $90 I have saved. I would rather spend it on maintaining my vehicle than the key

just managed to salvage an old key it was completely flat...dropped it in the toilet as well.....took open cut off old battery soldered copper wires on and replaced battery..... as good as new the range is awesome!!!!!! it is a vs key!!!

will have a look thanks

could someone direct me to a link where there is a coolant flush how to or something. I would like to do it but do it properly

http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/showthread.php?t=43342 this should take you to pictures cheers mate!!!

I have replied on thread..... search hold-on threads. I would still like some help diagnosing???? what did you think cause was????

sweet, might sort out when I have some time. Thanks for the advise

sounds good I like that idea, I have taken cover off at the mo, quicker to work on engine!!!! What do you use to polish, some sort of cutting compound???? and do you do by hand or buffer???

What is the cause of the leak??? I am assuming selecter shaft?????? Bare in mind the obvious selecter shaft leak (circle around nut picture) was left side of engine. The latest photos I have posted is the right side of the engine. is that selecter shaft also??????

okay scv6calais What is the cause of the leak??? I am assuming selecter shaft?????? Bare in mind the obvious selecter shaft leak (circle around nut picture) was left side of engine. The latest photos I have posted is the right side of the engine. is that selecter shaft also??????

Have Found The Fricken Leak!!!! I have finally located the leak, now I just need to know what sort of leak it is/cause and how to fix!!!! is it the rear main seal????? I was thinking of putting in some nulon and maybe tighting this nut 1/2 turn....would that fix??????

now have pipe two cobys it does sound awesome!!!!!!

Degreased Photos!!! Hey Fullas just thought I would post some pics after the degrease. I then went for about a 15 min drive before these photos were taken.. there was one imediate leak highlighted in photo. is it the gear selector????? Ive also put an old bit of gib under the car to check for...

It looks as if nulon is the one!!!! I have heard that doing it to much is harmful to the seals etc......I am going to degrease search for the leak and if I find one use the nulon trans and engine...loving the advice!!!!! it is all very helpful. and hop will help others out too

sounds good last time I had my trans serviced I got the pros to do it, filter etc much better gear changing, is there a stop leak for both engine and trans????? and do they both need to be fully drained and all new stuff put in???? as someone mentioned my trans pan looks like the seal is shot...

I was running 10-30 fully syth for 2000km until I realised it was far to thin, perhaps some of the oil around the main etc is still from that. I have now got shell helix 20-50 in. the auto had a service about a year ago and is still 10,000km away from its next due service. i will give it a good...

more photos to help here are some more photos to help identify, I wish i had a hoist I could get some excellent photos to help diagnos. but oh well try these!!!!!!!

sounds like a plan, will degrease and go for a spin in the weekend. canary??? whats that????? I have had people suggest a stop leak product??? basically the car is immaculate inside and outside. motor seems to be running awesome, just this damn annoying leak!!!!!car has done 172,000km

all sounds very interesting, and from what I read the majority suggest rear main seal.....does this mean the engine is on the way out or just a matter of loosing a tad of oil??????

I think my car has always had this leak, however recently I made the mistake of running fully syth 10 -30 through far too thin!!! I have now gone back to shell helix 20-50 mineral. The prob has not gone away...could some one please please help identify the prob whats needed and how to...

I am fairly new to tankering with my car, I have recently cleaned out trottle body but are sure injectors are very dirty as well!!!! could some one explain how to clean them with pics???or guide to a site or link that can help. I have recently ran a very thin synth oil which my car obected too...

how do you replace these brushes

okay say it was the torque converter how can I go about repairing / cleaning or whatever you do to it!!! the carbon despots were not much after hour of driving....... what do you think about the wrong oil viscosity 10/30 synthetic instead of 20/50. also a while ago one a cylinder was down due to...

how can I tell if it is the torque converter, went for an hour drive today ran diagnostics after code 12 did not seem to make the untuned sound. Checked throttle body afterwards and had carbon residue (not much) but from being completely clean and going for an hour drive should ther be any...

nothing to do with road, dirty throttle body and iac valve me thinks

oh forgot to mention I have not test driven but am fairly confident

manage to find what throttle body was and iac cleaned both reset ecu code 12 again and agian and again and again etc so all is good!!! oh and I didn't loose my stereo only disconnect battery for about a min mayber the ecu resets allot faster than the stereo????

awesome redliner easy fix aye!!!