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Hahaha that means a fair few of them are even stupider then. And the above average ones all work in the pointy building in Canberra :P

I think the traffic is dropping off in someways because as (SOME) people get older, their priorities change from being cars to family/house etc. And the younger people tend to head to Facebook groups rather than Forums. I've noticed the same thing happening on another forum I visit...

You've said the globes/fuses are good, but have you changed them, or tested to make sure they are ok? Sometimes they look fine, but are actually dead (had this before with both fuses and globes).

Hey Mate, as far as I'm aware the only thing that will set off a code is the airbags, so as long as you leave them connected (no reason to disconnect them for a head unit) then you should be right to move it around.

I would be interested in a similar study that explains the Commodore owners who fit outside of that definition, so that we can ensure a breeding program is introduced to increase their numbers. That should then lift the quality of the herd in general :P:P:P

The plastic parts of my commodore squeak and rattle much more than in my Audi or BMW ever did. No, I wasn't rich haha, they were second hand older ones. but still MUCH quieter inside. And the stupid ass tail light gremlin that keeps causing one light to not work, but never when you're...

replaced center Console (cracked) and panel under steering wheel (mounting hinge busted). Got both for less than the price on the board for just a center console, from Pick a Part :D

Ok so I did give that a shot, and all wires were properly insulated. And still happening :(

Hey Mate, not sure if this is possible, but if you get in touch with AV-DC in Adelaide, they'll know. I have a head unit they modified with a MINI DSP unit - it outputs RCA instead of speaker out, and has a USB cable so you can plug in a laptop and change crossover/time alignment/EQ Settings...

I walk past this Banananus every morning, and want to scratch my eyes out.

Thanks Nut Kracker! Going to check the rear door switches this weekend! Hopefully it sorts the issue out. I did the front and glovebox last weekend - before the rain decided I wasn't allowed to play :|

Hi All, my interior lights are doing the not turn off thing. I've checked that the ground wire is connected under the dome, checked the fuse, and replaced the relay. Sometimes they turn off, sometimes not. If I unplug the relay and then plug it back in, they stay off. But 9 times out of 10...

Yes it could. Without going to far into electrical theory, the longer the ground lead the more chance you'll have of getting whine. There probably wont be too many screws under the carpet, but you may find mounting points for the center console could work. I wouldn't advise using the seat or...

does the wheel have a removable centre cover? Might not look like its removable, but maybe it can be pried off, with a nut underneath?

I just replaced my 20's with 19's. I had buckles and a cracked wheel from hitting a pothole, and had NO luck getting the council/vicroads to do ANYTHING about it. So thought I'd get slightly more rubber between the wheels and the road. The ride quality with 19's is definitely an improvement...

I have had nothing but headaches and BS from Ralph D'Sylva Holden. Constantly needing to chase them after requesting parts to be ordered, and promised a callback. Wrong parts were ordered, and no solution or apology given for messing me around. Tried getting in touch with the Manager, no...

And its worth taking the wheels off the car too. makes it easier to get in all the angles. Some of what you're seeing is because you didn't quite get to all the nooks and crannies in the wheels properly.

I used roof lining material which is actually similar to your a pillar trim, it's perforated with little holes. But I made the mistake of getting the foam backed stuff. It's a prick to rip the foam off!!! The only problem I see with those style pods is the cables are visible and hard to get...

You said you doubt it's an earthing issue, but then said the cables go straight back to the battery. The ground cable should be as short as possible, not back to the battery...

Hey mate, I've gone through a couple of similar set ups in my VX. I first mounted them on an angle where the stock tweeters go, which was ok sound, but very low (sounded like music was coming from the dash all the time). Then I tried like this, which was better (Please excuse the...

Yes it is possible, but requires a fair bit of fiddly work, both removing the entire door handles, then swapping over the handle part from the backing. I wouldn't even think of trying to just change the handles with them still in the door. Way too much messing around. Much easier to take em out.

Hey sandy61, sounds like whoever put the head unit in may have run separate cable to the front speakers, or has cut the cable somewhere. Considering you get crackle when you turn the headlights on, definitely sounds like the wiring for those speakers is messed up somewhere along the way. The...

I'll take a look under the bonnet when I get home, and let you know :)

I'm not really sure what most of your issues are, but I do know that I can fit through the ski port behind the rear center seat. So if you need someone to crawl through and see if they can get the boot open from the inside, I'll give you a hand hahaha.

Ok, you would use channel 1 and two for your speakers and tweeters, because I'm guessing you're running passive (they have a crossover included). You can then bridge 3+4 to be a single channel for your sub. Whether this amp will suit your speakers will depend on their power handling specs. If...

I think that sounds like a plan. You can hook up the speakers and existing amp, and then upgrade the head unit. Then all your wiring will be in place, so if you want to upgrade your amp or speakers later, it easier to do.

The Charger one is 6PK1755, and the main belt is 6PK2845 :) This is assuming you have the stock pulley on the supercharger. If its a smaller pulley, you need a slightly shorter belt. the 1755 part of the product code is the length of the belt. I'm running a 6PK1735 because I've got a 3/4 pulley.

I never understood why coppers needed a different switch for the interior light to the stock one in the roof. Are they not used to putting their hands above their heads? LMAO :D

What car have you got? And is it the stock head unit? Bang for buck, I'd be putting in the new speakers first, and then adding an aftermarket head unit, and amp after that. The reason I'd do it in that order is that you already have the speakers, so putting them in will show an improvement in...

Also make sure they're plugged into the head unit (if its stock). They are on a separate plug to the main speaker/power loom.

it could be as you suggest, that there is an amp hidden somewhere. But it may be that the wiring is just screwy somewhere away from the loom. Did the car have a stock head unit before, or a different aftermarket one?

I'll have a look in my shop manual tonight and see if it gives any instructions for ya :)

I've used STP in my car, it has been as good as Dynamat, but slightly cheaper :) I'd avoid the Jaycar stuff if I was you - In my old car I had it come unstuck, roll off the door skin and get stuck on the window. THAT was not a fun clean up :(

The remote wire to the amp should always be connected to the remote out on your head unit. Connecting it to other sources can cause problems and you don't need it on if the stereo isn't on anyway. If you need it to turn on separately to the head unit (unusual, but not unheard of) then you...

^^ This. Or plug a different source into the head unit video in for the reverse camera, and see if it switches.

Another reason for people to not take responsibility for their own actions *Rolls eyes*

That amp would be a good match for those speakers. It puts out just over 110WRMS, and the speakers you've chosen match that well (100WRMS, and 110WRMS). You could get an Alpine Mono (MRX-M55, slightly underpowered for your sub though) or a PDX-M6, which is about 600WRMS so would work well with...

It doesn't really simple down much mate. It isn't like an aftermarket set of spotties that just need power/accessories/headlight signal/ground. They're connected to the headlights, headlight switch, which then talks to the BCM... This is so they'll go off like the headlights do when you turn...

LMAO I've seen the wiring in your engine bay... :P I stand by my statement that correctly installed cable would not have that kind of degradation - ESPECIALLY only after three years.

This is a symptom of incorrect gauge or installation of cable. There is no reason why sufficient gauge and correctly installed cable would degrade over time. (Well, over the time most of us own a car anyway).