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I have seen some starter motor solenoids with up to 3 spade connectors. Some I have seen have two only connected and one that does nothing. Have a look at it you'll see if there is any connection.

I was talking about the stabiliser bar (blue) not the panhard rod. I need to fix my breather lines on my tank so I might think about painting it down the track. Silver looks pretty good.

It looks like you have done a paint job. Did you paint the tank silver and is the stabiliser bar new or just painted?

Run a wire to earth from one of the earths on the light socket and see if that helps. It fixed my problem.

This might be what you are looking for? http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/showthread.php?t=22294

Sell it on ebay and make $5 for it. :p I bet the perspex is worth more than the rim :)

Now I remember seeing two others but have no links. One was a chromed or polished 351 Cleveland? coffee table. Yeah the whole motor displaying valves or crap. Think I saw it in a post here. The other was a BBQ with a V8 attached to the end. Can't quite picture what it looked like.

Found this coffee table :) http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SS-COMMODORE-WHEEL-COFFEE-TABLE_W0QQitemZ300110072856QQihZ020QQcategoryZ38205QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem If anyone sees any other auto furniture, post!

Yes it is a low series BCM. I'd like to know if the output has a voltage or not.

Sweet thanks a lot. I didn't think you could get a new one. My one was damaged in a T-bone a while ago and if I get this then my front end will be good again. Cheers :thumbsup:

That's a major structural component of the front of the car. Depends on how badly damaged it is.

It does sound like it's running far too rich. Does it blow black smoke?

Yes it is a rip off. You don't really buy it for the oil but instead the joke more.

Can I have this one please? :thumbsup:

Just a quick note here. I have found with my guage, if I flick it to LPG whilst in motion on petrol, the guage won't show up for LPG and will still show the petrol. Maybe that is your problem too? If it really bothers you, I would suggest maybe getting a LPG joint to look at the dual fuel...

hehe yeah my brothers VK headlight when I took it out a while back, the bottom crumbled to pieces!

Oh yeah, take it to a place to match the thread up. If you haven't got any fasteners shops around, try Autobarn or Supercheap auto as they have a half decent range usually and you can match the thread up on their nut board thing. Only bad thing about that is you usually need to buy a whole pack...

No I don't mean Bunnings or Autobarn. There are specialist fastener places around. There is one near my place that sells everything nuts, bolts, all threads in varying thread types and high tensile ones too. Look up fasteners in the yellow pages online?

A good fasteners shop would have all sorts of all threads and bolts etc...

That's what wrecks the switch and fuse rail! Higher wattage globes. :eek:

What happened to the photos?

Yeah good point mate. You can find stuff from the most unlikely places. As they say "everything foam and rubber" haha. Auto parts sellers can really rip you off with hoses.

Of course! I'd say it compares to Home Brand. I forgot to mention it's about $15 in the shop from memory.

That's nice man :thumbsup: Good colour and the rims suit well.

I'd advise using a 2.5" laptop hard drive instead of a 3.5".

That method is quite commonly used by the RACV/NRMA to unlock the door. Usually the rear door. Thing is most people don't know how to use a coat hanger to do it properly which is a good thing.

Um no. You don't need to break the cover. It's just a wrecked thread. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to lever it as you undo it. Looks like someone has done them up WAY too tight. They should only be done up until just firm. Probably around 10-12 Nm which is not much. Edit: If you undo...

Can't the instructor have a car where he/she can hit the brakes? Or is it encouraged for the driver to smash it up? :p

There has been lots of talk here before on Solex locks and my opinion I wouldn't touch them when a heap of people say that all you need is a large screwdriver to pop them off. So they can be broken through. :whistling

Do you think you could take a few pictures of the manifolds especially where the water jackets are? How much would you want for one?

55 amp I thought.

Yeah that stuff is good. It typically could/should be used on all threads.

When they broke into my brothers car, they took his Aikido outfit!

What's the condition of your manifolds? I am looking at getting a spare but don't want one with damage around the water jackets.

You just wire it in series with the starter solenoid wire or you could wire the switch from ground to the positive side of the coil. All it would do is non stop cranking. You need proper wire and high enough amperage switch. A 20 amp switch would suit the solenoid wire. This method isn't exactly...

On the way to the wreckers, stop by Dick Smith and get a single pole switch and use it as a hidden kill switch. Damn little ****s that do this. The bastards steal everything whether or not it's of much or any value at all...Meaning nic nacks in the car. :(

I take it you just changed pulleys? Personally I don't see the point because the 202 alternator is enough.

V8 308ci, 91 unleaded, stock motor, 290,000K I thought the VB-VK had 68 litre tanks? I get about 350 km out of mine. 60 litres of LPG I get around 250 km.

Just a question here regarding ball joints, last time I checked mine on my VK, there was no grease nipple. Is this normal?

No offenece but it's a pain in the arse being in Sydney without all my equipment and no I won't be checking fuel pressures:D I am about 600% there will not be any fuel retard here :) PS. I recently aquired the Gregory's manual and also (I think) aquired a pirate copy of the GM VT manual...