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OMG I've been living a lie. Bi-modal is usually good right up until you boost. Then it becomes a little more dangerous. That said if you're livening up a beauty like that a full exhaust will pull more ponies and there are some really good systems that reduce the obnoxious factor until you hit...

Raptor is a supercharger. Tim used to frequent these forums back in the day I know you didn't ask and I encourage DIY and experimentation. Setting expectations I think is important. One thing missing from your list is a fuel pump. L67 have a two speed, which a DW or Walbro/Ti 250LPH will cover...

If you're going to boost an L36 either Raptor or Tonyz turbo it. In both instances, assuming DIY, add a fuel pump, reg, some ancillaries and a tune, you're done. You can pull it off for under 7(ish)k. A M90 blower will leave you feeling underwhelmed for the stuffing around and money. Good luck...

Sorry mate, I think your misunderstanding me. I'm not trying to insult your intelligence. Jitter can lead to loss, sure, I'm just saying that's not what the metric is for. Ookla records retransmits and displays them, they can't be hidden thanks to check sums. I'm saying there was no loss and the...

Jitter is packet latency, nothing is dropping. Speed tests are only good for raw bandwidth these days, those latency numbers are impossible. I wouldn't be able to use video, let alone voice for calls if they were accurate. Teams and zoom show jitter well under 30. Ping is usually around 30-40, I...

The work they've been doing on 5g round here is paying off. Leaves my fixed net at home for dead, aside latency

Sure, agreed, unless you're in Sydney and you want to communicate with the rest of Australia. It's kind of like Omegle for data streams

It's not big in Australia, most people just use the Internet. I like the idea of an distributed network not beholden to Telcos. There's some really good implementations overseas for remote health, agriculture and IoT integration. I'm not sure I'd go to all that trouble for an SMS though

You are my aspiration in 25 years. Bravo

As a Bimmer guy I post this with love. The Germans have lost the plot I'm starting to wish I bought a VF2 SS. Carsales suggests I can remedy this situation

It's true. Spend a day at the track for most types of event and you'll cop ear-fulls of engine and brake noise predominantly. It's just the nature of fixed monoblock callipers when you work them. Lots of grease, high quality street compounds and city limits are about the only things that tame...

I've found the trick with Brembo 4 and 6 pot is brake grease. Every single one I've done is quiet as a mouse, from Remsa to Bendix and back to DBA since using Hella Pagid on every single contact surface, including the locking clips and pins. All using weighted pads

I wasn't aware they're allowed to do that until the magistrate told me I had to let them out

As the article mentions it's why I always recommend Android users ensure Tracker detection is enabled

Circuit and drag days

It's the only stuff that hasn't broken down on a track day. It's why I dropped Nulon, I could kill their race gear. Repco and Supercheap this weekend, although only Repco has my stuff. 75 down from 105.

I decided to have children for this job

#pcmasterrace

You're a top bloke Losh, I'm not sure any of the regulars want anything other than to spread good info to help us love our beasts more Also Ten Tenths is on special. Happy Easter!

Different weights are different formulas. Oil weight is determined by bearing tolerances and different tolerances are different use cases. Stock engines tend to be tight, high performance tends to be loose. More film is less heat and counters expansion. Over time the bearings will wear and those...

First number is the winter rating, specifically cold start, second is the operating temp rating. There's lots of reputable sources online that explain the ratings. The second number is where engines spend 99% of their working life and the bit that matters most keeping the right film between your...

Factory spec is 10w-40. Penrite HPR5 is a great contender and my recommendation. Doesn't really matter what the cam is

It doesn't make any sense re your experience with w ratings. This only pertains to the winter rating (cold start kinematic viscosity) and the difference between a 5w and 10w only really affects folk on startup who might live around the Arctic Tundra. I'm guessing it's more likely these are...

LS love Penrite. So do BMW and Mazda. HPR5 the world. Nulon is fine, just doesn't have the longevity of Penrite I stock up whenever it's on a decent special, which seems more than enough to keep up with demand. Ten Tenths.... now that stuff is never on special

Just because it gets spark doesn't mean it's getting the right spark. Ecos are pretty simple animals. In my case on Sunday, plugs held against the engine turning over sparked consistently, just not under running conditions. Consider swapping the 1/4 with the 2/6 and see if the problem moves...

It uses OBD2 on can

Aerpro make iso harness and fascia to suit most major brands. Plug and play. They did at least when I had a VS

Great troubleshooting. If it's not the fuel it's the spark. As above either two plugs, coils or the DFI. It's funny because I just went through the same issue with the exact same coils on Sunday, except it was 6 and 2. Fault diagnosed as two crappy GOSS packs. Resolved by wrecker OEM

You call those holes? Trust Ford to go small

Hush your blasphemy. Beside the stud pattern Holden steelies have round holes, Ford have ovular

That dish though

Assuming an Eco, you can bridge pin 5 and 6 on the ALDL interface port (from top left), turn the key to reds and the CEL will flash you the codes. If you have ever had a CEL then you have a great place to start before you replace the engine piece by piece with hope as your strategy Could be a...

They are WK Grange wheels

A VY 5.7 should store a code if it's over or under charging. I'd start with a scan. You can also use diagnostic mode to monitor the voltage, give it the beans and see what numbers you get before it cuts

Just buy the Mace kit. Unless you're building a thousand hp boosted monster, btr v2 is overkill

That's why you don't buy junk LED. I guarantee you if you put these in a VF you wouldn't be anything other than stoked at the improvement. 5700k, won't bother the can, spot on beam pattern and more than double the throw...

Yeah they do. If you're happy with the LED though I wouldn't bother. I had to use HID in the VY due to the aftermarket projectors not accepting any quality LED, whereas I went Stedi LED in the Bimmer for beam pattern matching. Both are an amazing upgrade over halogen equally as good

ProVision sell HID with fast start ballasts, I have them on my VY, they work brilliantly, almost instant. Lex knows his sh!t

There are plenty of high quality canbus compatible LED options like Stedi. Not only compatible but have the correct beam pattern to replicate the halogens. Then the upgrade is totally worth it and your not blinding other drivers. Worst case you might need to code out voltage checks

No. They are two different platforms, the VS didn't come out til 95 but the answer remains the same