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If no SIDI badge on the boot then yes it is the 5-speed auto. Most likely a new auto and unfortunately the 5-speeds are the most expensive as they are complex (lots of clutches) and require special tools to rebuild. Only thing you could do is to check the fluid level but if all other gears are...

You need the Aisin box. The T56 and TR6060 are V8. You will need lots of re-flashing done at a dealer that has done this kind of thing before. Look in the VZ section for manual conversion to see what is required. From memory it was a full reflash to the VIN on a manual version of your car.

I think he's referring to the block that is damaged. Alternator is easy... replace.

Pin 1 gnd, pin 4 12v, pin 3 PWM in

Do you have a picture of the plug?

Power, gnd, PWM in, .... not in that order though.

1 litre per 1500 k's is not normal for oil use. Most likely Rings / Bore can cause Oil useage and Low Compression.... for the top end you need really worn guides to use that much oil plus valves / seats burnt to loose the compression. To find out put that piston at tdc and apply compressed air...

Problem is the non existant temp sensors (thermistors).

If you hold the Handbrake Button up it is designed to slow the car down, as shown in the table above posted by bigfella... 'Electronic Stability Controlled Deceleration', so yes if you had brake master cylinder failure you could use the handbrake to slow down safely.

There was mistakes on some of these brochures saying they were forged like the earlier Redline ones, as I have seen updates saying that info was incorrect.

It would most likely plug into the OBD port and thats it. It has power and all the information the display needs. If so it would be extremely easy.

Really Dirty Fluid Plus the symptoms you mentioned = Rebuild. If he changed the TEHCM as its called you would need to have it reflashed by Holden.... most likely has the original faulty tehcm... and is now wrecking your new friction plates again by slipping.

Holden Commodore Engine 3 6 VE LEO Type V6 08 06 08 09 85 032KMS | eBay Looks like the back of the cylinder head is where the LEO sticker is, also check the engine number stamping on the back / side webbing of the block... good luck.

The Premium Engine (195 kw) in SV6 and Calais was LY7 designation.

LEO is the engine you are after, 10HBE doesnt mean much to most people. Same as Omega, should be easy to find. Just use your original coil packs etc..

Sub standard HVAC caused by not having any actual temp. sensors... I use the window... it seems to be more effective

Steering Column lock can happen with any car that has electric steering column lock. If your front wheels are pushed up against the gutter say, the solenoid for the steering lock cannot release until you move the wheel and take the pressure off the solenoid. Easy if you know. should come up with...

You need to relearn when driving a VF manual. Handbrake wasnt nice for me.. you need to rev it and drive through the handbrake.. not good. You need to delay between taking your foot off the brake and releasing the clutch... no need to panic like a normal manual. Just take your time as it holds...

What Size are the rims / tyres on the SV6 reserve? .. i'm presuming they are like Redline Fronts all round.

Why not, you just need the Vin of one that has the red caps... or if you see one take note of the vin in the Windscreen Lower Left.

I would start by removing the Air Filter box. Lift the plastic on RHS under the wipers by removing scrivets. Disconnect Battery then Lift up the Battery + Terminal under bonnet by pushing plastic clip and pulling up. This allows you to remove the airbox bolts and airbox / Zip tube, disconnect...

I would say they all idle rough compared to say an sv6. Also they idle is a lot lower. Normal for this engine.

Yep what other models will they fit in ...

Sidi Disinguished by high pressure mechanical pump on LH cylinder head (rear) and stainless hard pipes coming from pump (round & stainless steel looking) http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/gallery/data/583/sidicutaway.jpg First of the Sidi engines had a unique inlet manifold that looked like...

It normally breaks where the diff loom meets the body loom. Dealer will normally replace the diff loom but if your handy with wires you can fix it yourself... bypass the plug or similar.

check the codes, takes out all the guesswork

Replace the radiator cap and check the hose to the overflow bottle has no leaks.

Id find another engine. You will never know what other damage has been done with the overheating and water in oil... etc..

Is the roof sprayed black or wrapped or ?? and how much extra are they charging for this special edition?

Id buy a new factory battery. If your going to leave the car unused for longer than a couple of days, disconnect the battery.

I would buy a new cap. Cheap and normally removed when they do a pressure test. The coolant should definitely not dissapear. Radiator should be full at all times with no air.

Id be pulling the lining out of the boot and looking for an earthing point common to the rear lamps. I would say both faults are related.

I think you'll find the clutch is considered a wear item and not covered by warrantee. Even though you may have looked after your car it is impossible for them to tell how the car has been treated.

Ill take the $12 bolt any day. Should be in the OEM packaging. Are you suggesting the dealer is selling non genuine caliper bolts?

Have you tried disconnecting the battery again to reset the whole lot. Removing the battery while running can cause the voltage to spike quite high. You can get a cheap code reader if you want to check codes yourself.. like a bluetooth elm + torque app for your phone.

Yep pretty much, but by the time you get the front bar & paint, grill, lights, etc.. etc.. it will cost a few $$.

With the Sensor connected, you should have gnd, 5v, and while cranking the output wire should read about 2.5v dc (it is swiching fast from 0v /5v / 0v ...). You may be able to turn the engine over slowly with ignition on via Crank pulley and see this signal go on 5v/ off 0v. Strip some of the...

Nope Definately one of the front Cylinders. 2 is Front RHS I think. So you swapped 2 and 4.... still eliminating the coil as the cause.

Normally just replace the sensor. Be careful as there are quite a few different types / plugs used in VE. Also be careful which side the fault code is actually referring to. If you need to drop your cat (front O2's) you will need a couple of exhaust gaskets as well.

Yep they will still work but your new radio will need programming, or it will come up with some error on the screen. You might be able to just swap out the cd mechanism off another car.