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You'll need to get it tuned to turn on the oil temperature, as the S1 only display volts and pressure.

keep an eye on your 02 sensor or MAF (maybe clean the MAF?). Sounds like it ran really rich briefly then righted itself. Maybe a dodgy connection.

Throw a supercharger one on for when you supercharge it :)

Mine always reads lower when it sits there idling for long times. As long as its showing oil pressure increasing and decreasing, i wouldn't stress about it.

I found the big spoiler gives much better handling at higher speeds. I had a lip spoiler on for a while, however when the car got fast, the whole car would lift like a plane wing. When I put the standard s1 ssv wing back on, the car settles down at higher speeds

I'll have to send it at some point. I do like the idea of a forced induction interchiller, but I don't drive hard enough to use all the power as it is to be honest. Bit of an old man in it, most times

Finally got a chance to measure this, the IAT are 6degrees above ambient at 100kph. The day was 17, inside the Charger was 23.

Just grab a cheap code reader or go get the codes read, that will tell you what the electrical faults are

Cheers, power wise it's got plenty for me right now, I dont really get to properly open her up much on the road. You can feel the coolness on the intercooler pipes when not driving hard, but I haven't checked the manifold air temps. Will do when we go out later and let you know.

Thanks mate, I wanted to go pure gm on the motor so that it would be a bit stealthy and have great drivability. Its drives really well, idles like a factory car, still has stock converter gearbox and diff

A bit of information for curious people thinking of dropping an LSA on their L98. I did a home build, heads off build over Covid. LSA cam, intake, new Charger. New LS3 valve springs, lifters. Lsa front pulley. Water to air intercooler. It already had 4-1 Di Filippo tuned length headers (the...

They are 2.5” pre the resonator, just grab the exhaust, you won’t be disappointed and they are not making them past the end of the year

Id probably look at crank angle sensor. Have a seach on here, heaps of threads about them

If you have the 3.0, you have the 6L50 tranny.

Check it for nolathane bushings. They creak and groan in the cold weather. You can grease them to reduce the groaning. Otherwise they soften up with warmer weather.

Take the loose middle section with you :cool:

There are literally thousands of exhaust threads on here. Have a search and you will likely find your answer. Also you would need to identify your ride. The exhaust for a 3.0 omega is vastly different to a blown gts.

Might be a relay under the hood?

Prevention is better than the cure. Take the risk away and tell son he's paying for it :D

Thanks NAAF, that seals it for me. I'll leave it be. Cheers :)

Cheers guys. Too bad gm never modeled the exhaust note on the 308, id be bloody happy with that. 3" on a guy at works vz sounds awesome. Might ask him what hes done to it when i see him next

Cheers immortality. Its a great sounding exhaust, just still lacks that old school like its rumbling out of a sewer drain. Might be the difference of 2.5" vrs 3" or alloy block vrs steel block. Ive got some pipes i can mod, so im not destroying the cats if it creates annoying cabin noise...

Any car registered prior to 2010 is exempt from the emissions rule. Noise restrictions still apply though.

Swap them over. It's all interchangeable. There are wiring guides on the net to change stuff like guage pods over etc. Long as its the same series.

I have an l98 ssv with the usual bolt ons, tuned etc. Exaust is 4-1, 1 7/8" dpe headers, high flow dpe cats and 2.5" dpe catback. Rear o2's are tuned out. Being in Nz its legal to remove the cats. My question is, does removing the cats change the note both in cabin and external if the cats...

You might have already completed the job, but in case you haven't. Best practice is to use a compatible floor sealer for the concrete under the flc. Then duct tape around where any holes are. Cut the exposed tape after the floor has cured. You can make a dam with the duct tape by taping over...

Any urethane bushes can squeak and groan when they are cold

Try cleaning the connections between the two units

Might have the suspension on the build plate like the ss has.

Trademe over here. I got a low ks one for that price

Its pretty common for the front bearing to go. You can get a replacement for about $20 on ebay. Most likely its the rear bearing in the unit. In that case, its easier to just replace the whole compressor. In NZ a compressor is about $120 and about $200 for a de-gas re-gas. The noisey bearing...

Bit of a late update. However finally had the car tuned. Gave my tuner a copy of this thread and Ari's instructions. He enabled the gauge and it all works beautifully. Job done.

Besides the fact that it's a ford? In all honesty I think they are great bang for your buck. Also they will make a great long term investment, think vl turbo, xa coupe. Right now they are a real Bogan car, once all the fpfq people have destroyed their rides, they will probably become quite...

I had a similar issue, replaced the leads and that sorted it. If those leads have been on and off the plugs a few times the connections get loose and cause misfire.

Most likely due to the 4wd double cab Ute filling in that market and the SUV filling in the station wagon market. Both options are cheaper to run and have decimated the traditional markets.

get those original tips welded on, you wont get a better looking set up than your stock tips

You must have an engine code if you have an engine light on, unless the engine light has an issue. Abs/Tc can beany number of things, most likely to be wiring loom in the rear connection (quite common) or say one of your sensor inputs playing up or out of alignment, such as steering wheel angle...

http://www.goatperformance.com.au/

I believe legally the engine has to be newer than the chassis to pass inspection. Probably cheaper just to get an ss. You'd spend more getting the parts and passing inspection than what it would cost for a straight swap

https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/decode-of-vin-please.200891/ follow that link