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Oh and for the rear i was going a 4 Link setup on my ute and yeah agree with JXW check out what they are using

I think the other issue I came across was the space in the well, I was going to have to cut out the guards (which is a normal import thing to do for extra lock) atm my mates import is at 89 degree lock.

Honestly never got round to doing anything for it. I started to research putting in components from other cars (like a Nissan R or S chassis) but never got round to it. I was thinking keeping my strut towers (I had coilovers Holden Commodore VR VS VT VX VY VZ Front Only Coilovers XYZ Racing...

Im currently experiencing injector issues with the other loom. or is it a different part of the loom that i need? If I go the grey wire option, where would these be found?

Will i have to bridge any wires to trick it into thinking its in park?

Ok, I found my "smoking wire" in the center of the fireall, its a redish/maroon colour wire, that goes across the top of the T wiring n the center. This is the wire, it runs from the drivers side of the firewall to the right, it doesnt go into the injector loom I will do the test...

I find it funny that that diagram originally got posted here hahaha.

Nope, no LPG, or signs of one being there in the past. And its not the relay in question atm, I believe it will be either pump, pump wiring, or injector wiring. I might check the fuel pump when i get a chance and go from there.

Fuse marked injectors (not sure which number) and as soon as i turn it to on (so all the dash lights are on) it pops

I do eventually need to take the tank off to get the fuel sender (the awesome little do dad that tells you how much fuel you have out) I might just wire an inline pump into a jerry can to see if this fixes the issue. Ill check what i can this arvo and see how I go.

Ok, So my injector pump fuse keeps blowing. From searches i have checked the below (I have 2 VTs so not short for parts) I have tried the fuel pump relay and still shorts. I have checked my wiring for the injectors and can't see any issues. I have a full tank of fuel, So then i...

But but my key is brand new :( may have access to a tech 2 hopefully, btw im glad to see youre still kicking around here oh glorious exhaust wizard Im an idjiot, i just need to change the internals

I was looking at this for my ecotec. I was going to go the path of the l67 heads. But you would be needing a rebuild if you don't want to extremely shorten the life of you're engine

Stupid questions time. i have gotten myself a complete manual vt donor car for my VT auto. Other than the obvious what do i need to swap over? So This is what I know I need, If its not on the below list I don't know i need it Tail shaft and brackets Gearbox and brackets Clutch (got a new one...

https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/vs-v6-owners-check-out.5910

http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vt-vx-holden-commodore-1997-2002/241819-vt-randomly-switching-off-then.html

Mine recently did this, i did an ecu reset and havent had a single issue yet. Even got better fuel economy, (600 Ks to 40L on std unleaded) I have no mods what so ever.

Could perhaps be alternator related, Like the ecu doesnt get the right voltage, (like the fan puts too much strain on the electrics) and then stalls out. And yes, there is a large wire on the back of the alternator which does degrade, I had one let go on me and luckily i only noticed because...

So I did the error check after i did 300ks, and still nothing has popped up, funnily enough though this reset has also fixed my fuel economy. Before I would get 450ks to 48L Now I have done 300ks and have used 15L....

So far so good,

Ok, I did this to reset my error codes. Now its not doing the valve bounce/hesitating, and has yet to randomly switch off, did 100 ks this morning and will do an error check this afternoon to see what I get. A few months back I did an error check and had these and made a few repairs. 24...

Clean tight terminals (starter motor issues atm so check them regulary) 13.85 volts (still the same since i rebuilt it) Tested with my multimeter haha. I might have to do another error test.

I have had DFI's fail, this is different, only happens at one spot on the revs and i think its actually only in one gear. Definitely only happens when under load, never when in neutral.

Also when it does do its hesitation/valve bounce, i noticed that the lcd readout light would dim everytime it "bounced"

So the last two days my VT (v6 ecotec) has been switching off then switching on (ie driving along the engine will stall then restart and all lights on the dash come on then disappear) Since this has started happening, when i am driving at 100ks and put my foot into it and the revs reach 4-5...

No i didnt do that cause i was running late for work haha, i use the system drain option, disconnect battery then turn on something to drain the residual power like lights or something.

Cool, ill give this a go and report back hahahaha

Hmm, I disconnected the battery and turned the lights on to drain the rest of the power to reset the codes. And when i started the car this morning it seemed very hesitant taking off from idle, it slowly fixed it self though so ill see how it goes on the drive home, Would this just be the ecu...

Ill do the fuel check soon, but here my errors, 24 Vehicle speed sensor (no signal) 29 EGR position sensor fault 35 Idle speed error (IAC valve unable to control idle speed) 44 RH oxygen sensor (lean signal) 64 LH oxygen sensor (lean signal) 76 Air/Fuel ratio (variation between left and...

Ok so just bought myself another Commodore, this time a VT. Every now and then i will get the check engine light, but i cant seem to find any issues. Also it seems the my fuel needle (and the readout in diag mode) is incorrect, was on 16l, put in 20 l more and it jumped upto 55L. The...

My rear main seal is gone and uses about that much, looks for noticeable oil patches hahaha.

Could be your DFI module, mine did that a while back, was on track for 5 hours straight and fried the dfi. ran lumpy and was missing on a cylinder. Could be dirty/incorrectly set spark plugs, leads could be shorting out, coil might be intermittently dying, or DFI. Pull your plugs off one by...

If its got oil in it still, disconnect your top and bottom hose and start the car, after maybe 30 secs of the car running all the water should be out. Just as another option anyway This will not damage your engine, its only idling and not heating up as long as you dont run it too long.

And thats with and without the black fob

Mine will lock and arm with the key in the ignition as long as its not on acc/on/start

i might just f**k it off and go a non immobiliser tune/ecu with a button start hahaha. or just bypass it by completing the circuit

Hmm mines done it on two different engines though, cas was replaced when the new engine was rebuilt, Its something in the wiring or ECU/BCM but cant single it down to anything.

Good to know you got it sorted

Has a new battery in the fob, replaced it when i replaced the plastic part with a new one from holden.

Or make sure you arent over filling your gearbox and it isnt just leaking out the breather, my manual getrag box only takes 2 ls of oil in one go.