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Bugga, I'm down the port but if you can't get it scanned I can run a tech2 on it and see what it says if you get stuck.

Where in SA are you?

It's an early engine with the thicker chain, should be ok as long as there was still oil flowing. Get it scanned properly and go from there. They still need fuel, spark and compression to run like any other engine, so get it scanned and systematically sort though the issue(s), no good guessing...

There is no IAC on the alloytech. Check all of your vacuum hoses for leaks, and the purge solenoid for correct operation.

Depends on where you are in Adelaide, but happy to plug in a Tech2 and reset the light for you, but if it's the clock spring it will keep coming back.

Maybe consider another Mechanic....

Hi mate, no promises but I have a tech2 here in Adelaide and if you are close by, I would be fine with running a scan for you, no charge of course!

Above the accelerator pedal, just remove the upper kick panel and you will see it.

Yep

Look at where they joined the gas injector wires to tap into the original injector loom, often they are bare and can short out.

It's alloy with oil contamination, so unless you are proficient in that type of welding, I wouldn't advise it. Mate, just bung in a decent easy-out and unscrew it, problem fixed. Just remember; Righty tighty and Lefty loosey.

That will come out easy with a decent screw extractor unless you broke it off by trying to unscrew it the wrong way? Never seen one that was tight enough to snap off just removing it. You can't just plug it, too much oil pressure for silicone etc.

Well, you don't have to empty it, but it's a bit heavy and cumbersome to drop if its still full. Yes, you need to remove the tank to replace the pump, just get it down around a quarter tank and it's easy to do on your own.

If it's causing issues with other modules, just unplug it to identify if it is what is causing the issues. Should be able to just plug another module in to see as well.

Fans are + hot all the time, and are - negative switched on.

Easy to program with a tech2, just can't change the KM's with a tech2. Fu is spot on with the advise!

Yep!

It just alters the point the shift solenoids in the trans engage.

Mate I would be having a good look at the evap purge solenoid, if it sticks open you will get those symptoms.

Cat has broken up

Put some 98 fuel in it, or some octane booster and report back. Preignition is what it sounds like.

I've done this on three VZ's and just cut the hard line and use trans hose and injection hose clamps, never had one blow off. I did however swedge the lines with a flare tool to help the hose grip. This is the sort of thing from some random youtube clip I googled.

My understanding is you have to "de-link" them from the donor car first. Saying that, I would think someone with a good bench top setup should be able to do it off the car.

Fu, which ECU repair did you use? You can PM if you wish.

It's not an injector(s) bleeding down when hot is it? When it does start do you get a strong smell of fuel out the exhaust?

Just gave him the easiest option to obtain it.

If you just go into holden with your rego papers with your VIN, and ask at the parts counter for the build sheet it will have all you ever need. They may charge you a small nominal fee.

Bank 1 is the side with cylinder 1. Drivers side for a VZ V6

As long as the replacement was from the same engine V6 or V8 and the number of airbags are the same it should just be plug and play. Make sure it has the same coloured plug, to rule out it being from a VY.

From memory about $170 odd for an inspection and another $90 or there about per subsequent inspection. Clean everything up underneath with some degreaser, replace the tyres, fix the exhaust and make sure your brakes are in good repair, and be respectful and polite you might get away with the one...

The second hand ECU has to be de-linked first.

Sounds a lot like a bad ground.

Wrong one!

First thing, just un plug the ABS module and check for any fault codes unrelated to the ABS. Ignore all the ABS faults and warnings, then plug it back in and check for codes again. Try and isolate the issue by removing modules from the circuit.

Make certain its a VZ alternator, they have an internal regulator, the VE ones don't

Looks like he's got a bit of a coolant leak there!

Clean the throttle body and MAF....

The "easy"way is to mark what you have now, and try the other two options, marking as you go. It's 50/50 if you get it right on the first go now...

. Really ??? https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/vz-ecu-repairs.273197/#post-2990594