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So I have a coolant leak that I'm trying to get to the bottom of. A while ago the overflow outlet nozzle on the radiator neck snapped, and I puttied it up as a temporary fix until I could afford a PWR radiator (I prefer to fix things with stronger solutions). Everything has been OK until...

Sounds like you have a S1 if the top tabs don't bolt on. I need S2 sorry

Could be. Is it full alloy? Does it have fan mounts, and what is the distance between the trans cooler ports?

https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/jayrad-jr1074hp

It's not a performance problem, it's that the stock inflow neck is known to break, as is the overflow outlet (which is what happened to mine). I prefer to replace things like that with stronger alternatives to avoid replacing it again in the future.

I *thought* I had researched enough, and verified on the website (Automotive Superstore) that it was compatible with my car. The website lists a VIN that matches mine too, but makes no mention that the fan mounts are missing/options. Anyway, I have it now so I'd rather get it adapted to work...

It's definitely the radiator that I ordered, but on closer inspection it looks like it simply doesn't have fan mounts. I've found that there are 2 different radiators for the VE SS, with the main difference being the distance between the trans cooler ports. The radiator I bought is different...

Hi fellas I recently broke the overflow outlet on my radiator so thought I would take the opportunity to upgrade the radiator. I ordered a Jayrad JR1074HP from Automotive Superstore, which is advertised as being compatible with my car (MY12 VE SS Auto). On starting the swap over this...

Yeah I think it could be done with haltech but I was thinking of just the stock ecu. Which probably explains why I couldn't find any threads about it anywhere

Ah, so much for my million dollar idea lol

Hey guys, I'm wondering whether it would be possible to create a "semi auto" nitrous system in a VE? The thought that came to mind is: * Install giggle gas as normal, with a master on/off switch and WOT window switch. * Using "spare" relay socket in fusebox, program the relay to close only...

I don't think running 295s on an 11" rim will give you any protection. A 10" rim would give you some sidewall protrusion

That is good info. I was going to talk to my AC guy of course, just wanted to be aware of the kinds of things you mentioned. Cheers

I'm trying to tidy up my engine bay and am thinking of replacing the stock AC lines with polished stainless and braided hose. Has anyone done this? It *looks* pretty straightforward but I'm wondering if there are any potential difficulties. I'll be starting at the firewall with stainless...

I run both 275/35/20 and 285/30/20 on my VE (originally 245/35/20) no problems aside from the usual speedo inaccuracy. The main issue you will find is that the larger diameter may affect shift points if you have an auto. Your mechanic should be able to program your ecu to the correct size rubber

I might give that a try. Thanks for your help and advice It's not slammed, I just want the same ride height as I had previously. I haven't seen anyone else reporting the same ride height problem.

I got them 2nd hand so no instructions came with them, but every video or how-to for Pedders into VE said to preload. There are a range of opinions about how much preload, so I went to the lower end.

Wouldn't lowering the spring perch affect the preload? I've followed the recommended process: Assemble onto the rear strut mount Fit remote adjustment knob Preload 3mm Lock spring perch Release lower collar Adjust height by rotating spring perch to screw body into the base (keeping preload)...

Handbrake was on. I adjusted by loosening the bottom collar then screwing the thread into the base using the top collar (not the lock ring). Bottomed out and relaxed 1/4 turn.

All done. Very happy with the ride quality, but with the rear adjusted as low as they can go, I'm still around 20mm higher than I was. Will they settle much more over time?

Thanks man, that is what I was after.

I have a S2 Redline and am putting Pedders Coilovers in soon. I bought it lowered, with Monroe GT shocks and what look like Pedders springs but I haven't had them out and can't see any info on them. Regardless, I'm currently sitting at 685mm on 285/30/20 rubber and want to keep it there...

I have the Manta/DPE full 3" system and the drone from 1500-2000 is awful. Cammed and OTR VE 6L auto. I replaced the rear mufflers with Racecraft dumps which only amplified the drone lol

The plate in the engine bay should say FE3 suspension as a quick check, but VIN decode is the way to go

The graph would be more useful if it showed the rpm so you can see what is happening power wise as it revs.

My AC shat itself a while back and I'm finally getting around to getting it fixed. Took it to a mechanic who removed the failed compressor. Turns out to be an SV6 compressor (Holden must have been using up old stock when they built my SS) and the lines won't fit the V8 compressor. So I thought...

So... A couple of weeks ago I got my rims replaced, and the shop cross-threaded one of the wheel nuts and couldn't get it off so ended up replacing the whole hub. Turns out the knocking was the wheel wobbling because they didn't tighten the wheel nuts after pulling the wheel on the new hub...

My MY12 SSV Redline has just started knocking/clunking from the steering/suspension at low speed. The noise is worse when turning left or even like 1 degree motion of the steering wheel, but is also present turning right or on bumpy roads. It's a clunk-clunk-clunk-clunk that changes with wheel...

Cleared the codes, everything seems to be ok

Ok, so the lights are working fine, all powered from the headlights parkers. It's still running rough, and after changing plugs & leads it stalled during the test drive. OBD2 on Friday showed a number of Hvac/heater issues (its in for AC repairs this week), and today shows injectors 2,4,6 and...

Got it sorted. Tapped off the headlight halo power.

Just disconnected the fog halos, and the roughness does disappear. Obviously my choice of connection points was wrong, where can I tap in to an accessory source in this area?

So I have installed a Switchback Led system in my MY12 SS. This comprises Halos for the headlights and fog lights, and Led bulbs throughout. The car was running fine after the headlights were installed but since I connected the Fog light halos it is running really rough. I have taken the...

Not as yet, I put the old rims back on as even with guard rolling I'm not sure if the tyre will clear.

I have 20x10 P38 on my rear with 275/30s and it scrubs so bad it's rounded the shoulders on the tyres. I read on another tyre thread that p45 is the minimum to clear on 10 inch rims.

Ok, so I went 275/30/20 instead, on 20x10 P38. Will be rolling the guards as it rubs when the suspension travels more than about 15mm

Currently running 20 x 8.5 40P with 245/35/20 on all corners. No rubbing issues, and the car is lowered on Monroe shocks with Pedders springs (not sure of the model, i need to scrub road grime off to read them). Im changing to 20 x 10 38P on the rear, and going with a 285/30/20 to maintain...

I'm looking at upgrading my L76 soon, and I'm wondering about the labour cost. Ill be doing the following, and it makes sense to do it all in one go, as heads will be off which should help with getting the headers in. Cam incl timing chain, dual springs & pushrods DOD delete Full exhaust...

How did you get on?

I have a 64GB SanDisk mini USB loaded with music. The IQ system reads it, but it seems that when in random mode, it will only play from the A - D folders, and only certain artists within this range (USB is Fat32, organised as Artist / Album / Track# - Title). I've removed all non-mp3 files...