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Whatever inconvenience you're talking about twice now, see my post. It's fixed. Nothing to do with mace anything.

Yeah, it wore out at about 320K. Stopped selecting gears properly. I've seen others online a few times wear out at about 300k so you're doing well. Car goes really well otherwise.

Auto Drive Transmissions, with 4.4 stars from Google reviews. There's numerous points of 'discussion' that relate to each workshop, but what it comes down to is that it took me peeling myself off my sickbed and going out to a 100kmh piece of road to notice within a few seconds that something...

For anyone interested the solution was 'Valve Body issue'. Something that should have either been got right the first time or when it went back the first time as far as I'm concerned. Not going to make a pointless issue about it now though if it works when I get it back.

For anyone interested the solution was 'Valve Body issue'. Something that should have either been got right the first time or when it went back the first time as far as I'm concerned. Not going to make a pointless issue about it now though if it works when I get it back.

Tried mailing twice in August but rejected twice. Have mailed again just now.

It's back getting a whole other trans built again, according to local workshop which sends it elsewhere. Would think trying different 'Valve bodies' would be the easier start. Told the local shop "it's not the original PCM". Reply was "we can see from diagnostic that it's sending a Shift...

Thanks for getting back to me. Yes, I m still having this issue. Yes, it;s a trans related code. Diagnostic tool shows a signal from PCM telling the box to shift and I can count 3 gear changes, but the rpm ends up at 2600 instead of 1800 rpm in top gear. Could it possibly not be going into the...

Installment about this. Workshop says the scan tool shows the PCM is instructing a gearchange but the change not happening. We can all feel 'something' like a change but I end up with this rpm too high. Workshop says the torque converter is 'locking in' (or something) but the box isn't...

Hi. Need some help getting this last table to work please. I have 225/55 R16 tire has a Diameter of 654 entered and the diff and gear ratios done and the graph is right. This last table is still working on the default Tyre diameter of 680 and 6 gears. How do I get the table right please...

No. Stock cluster. Never changed.

OK, which does what?

Thanks. Obviously makes sense if the next gear is an overdrive. Impossible to fit a lesser overdrive?

What's PPK? It's a MACE tune that's 10 years old. They haven't got back to me when I sent a msg from their website.

Agreed. engine 'feels' like it's at that rpm too. Almost like the overdrive is missing and it's running 1:1 gearing. How hard would it be to do that to a 'box?

Thanks. At that rate 1800rpm would give you 100kmh as expected. I'm running 225/55/16 so very close

Hey mate , Riddle me this. Went for a drive and manually shifted it down from from Drive 4th to 3rd and it did change down, which means it was in 4th. Couldn't the tune pick up the engine revs in top gear?

That does read like it. I'll go to the link thanks and have a look with my tyre size. Maybe print it too. Wagons have the 3.08 diff ?

So what is the answer?

Thanks for the local input. I'm in Gungahlin so Mitchell is close. As per the post above, I watched the tacho more closely and it did change and drop at each gear change. Didn't drop as much as I might expect into 4th. I did get it to change with a manual shift too. I don't get out much and...

Have just done some testing and now I reckon it is changing all gears but ending up at 2600rpm at 100kmh, which I'm putting down to the tune and never having noticed it before. Remaining issue is the Engine light that re-appears after a run at 100kmh. It's already been cleared and come back...

I've definitely got 2 gear changes and end up at at 2600rpm at 100kmh so that would be changes 1-2 2-3, and the 'ghost' change. 'Mechanical issue' would be in the box ? The one that's 'rebuilt as new' and already taken apart and rechecked? Something doesn't work and it's someone's job to work...

Yes, good logic. That would be um 'gearshift solenoid'? Here's an extra that I don't know if it will confuse or clarify the thing. Last time I was out for a test I could feel 'something' like a faint gearchange but there was no actual shift.

Yes I test at 100kmh to get the rpm at 100kmh. I have to go and find piece of 100kmh road. It took me one test drive and about 10 seconds (at the most) to work it out which is why I'm really annoyed that the shop involved couldn't notice it when they supposedly did comprehensive test drive...

Why would it work for years with the old box and now not? I posted on the mace thread here and sent them a mail. Nothing. Going nowhere fast with this.

Yeah, the local shop read the code which actually was something to do with 'shifting.' Sent the whole thing back to the box shop who pulled it apart and okayed it and then sent it back. Local shop says it scans as changing into 4th when it's blatantly not, by proof of the rpm... and still...

It's a stock diff!

Yep, shifter moves fine.

Doesn't seem to go into 4th at all. The box is new and it's been pulled apart and checked again.

Stock Diff. Yeah I think it's still in 3rd. I can feel 'something' at the shift point but I don't think it actually changes. The new Box has been pulled apart and checked again. Workshop says the Scan shows it is changing. Very ******* annoying when it took me one drive and a look at the...

Can't recall exactly what the code was. Think it was something to do with 'shifting' which would make sense cos it comes on after it's NOT shifted to 4th.

It's the stock diff. Whatever that is. Was wondering if wagons have a shorter diff than sedans stock, thus giving a higher rpm.

I've got a new auto gearbox in. I'm running at 2600rpm at 100kmh when I read it should be about 1800rpm. The 'Check Engine' light comes on too but the code is a gearbox code. Is it higher because the wagon has a shorter diff ? Is it actually still in 3rd gear ? (What rpm would 100kmh be in...

Have happily been using your 'Tune to suit' in my auto 3.8 VX Commodore for a few years now. (It was to go with your inlet spacers, Cold Air inlet and extractor exhaust). it's running at 2600rpm when I understand it should be about 1800 in top gear at 100kmh and the 'Check Engine' light comes...

Raise thread from the dead. (15yrs!). I've just got this problem about the tailgate not locking with the central locking. Mention here ^ of a fuse. There wouldn't be a fuse just for the tailgate lock would there ?

I got a retuned 'brainbox' (Not 'chip' on vx) and spacers from Mace all at the same time and told them what other mods so they knew what to tune for. Plug and play all fine. Minor tweak to give a little more pickup. Won't get any powerhouse so simply.

Limited budget, I'd say retune and shorter diff. to start. If you're living like the photo out in the country with lots of highway don't go too short. I was in the country with a wagon so I left the diff and did the inlet side spacers like you listed. (& a tune). Building a whole different...

This is what I suspected. It was a bloody hot wind powered inferno not just a dip in a campfire. Since I can't lean hard on anything anymore anyway I was thinking I might toss them to be safe. Especially the sockets . A lot of them were cheap rubbish anyway. Spanners were mostly decent and...

Crap chronic disease that stopped me doing any serious spanner work means I cant scrub the buggers either, thus wondering about a soaker.

Well I lost everything in the fires. Whole house and contents. Saved the Commo by driving it to escape the impending volcanic firestorm. Have been back since and found bugger all to salvage. I did find spanners and sockets. Has anyone seen the crust these things get on them !? Wondering...