Search results

Since most of us don’t have a crystal ball, codes will help. Misfires can have dozens of different causes.

7.5K seems to be the sweet spot

It would definitely not help with potentially blocked oil passages due to sludge. Flush it and use 5w30 as before. Not even sure why your mechanic would recommend using 5w40.

It’s well known the 15K interval is way too much on these engines. I would be careful investing into a new timing chain if the engine is sludged to death already. How many Ks has the car travelled?

I installed spacers and a catch can a long time ago and wondered if I needed the PCV mod at all. Took it out the other day and it looked perfectly clean. Still cleaned it for good measure with some throttlebody cleaner but hardly got any gunk out of it so I wonder if I’m either lucky or the...

You don’t need to lift the manifold on the non SIDI engines. In saying that, if you ever need to do so, you might have the older cardboard like gasket and it will need to be replaced with that new model that is reusable. Or you can use the occasion to fit spacers (in that case, RTV works, or 2...

I bought aftermarket ones (not LED, the ones that look like the original) at least 5 or 6 years ago and they are still in pretty good shape (car is not even garaged), no leaks.

Especially on a commodore…

What’s the exact code? Could be a connector or harness issue affecting the ability for the ECU to fully access the sensor.

I also had the ESP turning off with a faulty MAF, if this is what you mean by “esp light”?

No engine light means the code is about a condition that is not present anymore (were the codes cleared after the sensor was changed?) but you could have a new condition developing. Put your scanner in data grid mode and look for any misfires / check your fuel trims. Could be an issue between...

Could be both. Start with the battery, easier to replace. My battery is fairly new (replaced last year I think) and I’m starting to get random “clicks”, even when trying to start it for the first time of the day in the hot QLD afternoon. Sometimes takes 3 key turns to get past the click of...

Yes, that. The stock SS catback + non AFM mufflers will drone tho. Pacemakers headers fix that but they are (were? Not sure they still make them) not cheap. Still, $1.9K is more than what I spent back then to get the headers + non AFM exhaust + Orssom OTR + intake spacers. All these together...

Timing chains is a rattling noise when cold (sometimes it’s not even the chains themselves, just the tensioner being a bit lazy when cold). If idler pulley bearing, you’ll have to replace the one pulley. I guess you could try to source the bearing alone and pressing it out/back in but not...

Yep, and turning the AC on should make it sound worse, although you might have a noisy compressor too so it’s going to add another noise. Pulley won’t be rough when turning by hand but might have some play and ringing sound to it

See https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/ve-police-mode-what-exactly-is-part-of-it.193433/#post-2159379

You have the same mode on any VE, I think you need to press the dashboard light dimming buttons at the same time or something. They only difference is you don’t have the physical button for it. Other differences are LSD diff, beefier alternator (and battery) and reading lights on the base...

This is well covered here https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/vz-v6-starter-motor-click.248901/

That didn't age well at all.

That's a polite way to say it's rooted and the OP should stop spending any more money on it and buy a new car. An Alloytec with 15K+ service intervals immediately becomes a money pit.

It would probably cost more to filter it than to replace $60 worth of oil.

Simple answer is no.

If you have an engine light, you have codes. Read them.

Surprisingly, there’s a good chance it’s linked to the misfires. Stability control relies on a lot of other parameters and a dirty/faulty MAF sensor or other engine issues can definitely force stability control to be disabled.

Dremmel with the small black disc then file/sand for a smooth finish.I did that when cutting wider openings for my dual tip exhaust and it’s very clean.

It will probably touch the drain channel at the back like when using the big spacers. I would just test fit and see how much needs to be trimmed.

I would definitely explore the battery path too, but both the codes can also trigger stability control issues. Since the ECM can’t control the throttle accurately with the throttle position and MAF issues, it will turn the ESP off at times. I would start with a good MAF and throttle body clean...

+1 on the MAF issue. A dying MAF will also trigger this. You get a random “ESP off”, stays on until the ECU is reset or codes are cleared, then it comes back after a while. Check your fuel trims to confirm MAF issues. You can attempt a MAF clean first but if it’s on its way out, it will come...

ABS sensors on all 4 wheels, yes. Clear the codes when cleaning/replacing and see if it appears again after driving for a while

That can sound stupid but the wheel nuts are correctly tightened?

Not necessarily. For example the Pacemakers PH5080 have the O2 sensors in the same position as the factory headers so you don't need an extension nor get a CEL. You still get a decent power increase even without a tune, and less drone. But that's true for long tube headers. I think the hardest...

There's part numbers in that thread, shouldn't be too hard to google them or ask any Holden dealership while they are still around. Their parts department is usually very helpful but that was before they decided to close down.

Re wiring, this is discussed in depth here. You'll need a loom and a switch from a model that had fog lights: https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/ve-omega-foglights.78605/

The transponder chip in the key is passive, it has nothing to do with the remote battery. Looks more like a computer related issue. How fresh is the car battery?

I have the same issue with light throttle on a slope. It doesn't bother me too much but I'd be curious to know what fails in the TB. Is this an issue with the actuator that would actually make the butterfly slightly open and close for no reason?

What interval between services? It's well documented 15.000Kms between services was too much and caused issues down the line. I strongly believe it is the timing chain, well, more precisely, the tensioners are not doing their job anymore so the chain is hitting the cover, probably because they...

Can you record it? Make sure you don't have a small stone stuck in one of the callipers, bouncing around and that your wheels nuts are tight enough.

The aus driver/us passenger side is illustrated in post #5. For the other side, you're right, cut the line that goes from the airbox into the other side. Airbox side in the catch can inlet, motor side to the catch can outlet. You could also simplify the airbox setup by adding a small filter on...

It will give you the same **** sound you had with the old system and no mufflers. The catback won't improve that.

You can also get more info here: https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/question-about-alloytec-ventilation.234598/