Search results

Was it working before you replaced the stalk? If it was some of the Chinese stalks had wiring that was wrong or dodgy (allegedly)

That's what I thought. I won't mention the manufacturer's name as am still waiting for a response to my email regarding what guarantee (if any) exists. I had it installed by a local mechanical workshop because I didn't want to be rolling around in the dirt under a car on stands. Turns out I had...

Put a new starter motor in the snot box, the photo is not the new one,it's the one I had put in on 08/07/2022... 7,675 kms travelled.

V6 OR V8?

If my brake pedal went to the floor just once, I would stop driving it until it was fixed. To keep driving it is just crazy.

I was thinking more of deforming the actual steering wheel but I'm not sure that someone would bother, hopefully they'd just move on. I saw Supercheap have the club style branded as SCA.

With the club lock I try to get the thing extended as far as possible to eliminate 'wiggle room'. This does cause the thing to jam when unlocking, needing to be further extended for the key to turn, abit like the steering lock. I wonder if that was the case with old mate and his Prolock...

They might not have seen the glass if it was clean, might need a strip down the bottom that they can see.

If the car's been lowered the rear brakes may have been locking up. Seems the easy way to fix that rather than adjust it is to simply disconnect it. How safe or legal that is...

Probably not a good idea to put your Email up on a public forum...I have Emailed a scan of fuse details from a workshop manual through to you. That Email address seems to be wrong also. P.M sent.

When putting the new one on,leave the clamp loose enough that the hose will slide over the barb. You might have to hold the clamp in position with coat hanger while you do the clamp up.

If the hose remainder is perished you'll probably be able to get it off...

If the clamp screw head has a hex head you can try to undo it with a flexible drive. I got mine from Sprint (or whatever they're called this week) Branded Toledo it's actually called a 'clamp nut driver', the one I got is 600mm long, part #CND3. Cost was $22 about 3 years ago. Takes a bit of...

Have a look at 'EasyAutoDiagnostics.com' that will give you the information to test cam sensor and CAS.

Just to the left of the swirl pot you should be able to see a white fitting if you can see a black thing it may be the remains of the hose on the fitting.

Just wondering how the op can tell that the back pressure has improved...maybe the cat is clagged up.

How are you measuring the back pressure?

Plastic part with a bearing is the 'upper bearing housing'.

MAP sensor would more than likely affect it when it's running. Can you pin point the whine?

The pin at the top of the photo? That is for the horn.

Yes, happened to me 2 weeks ago...no 18x signal. I ended up putting a new CAS (crank angle sensor) and a new DFI module on but still no start. I did those checks and all was good, except for the 3x signal not going to 0 volts but I found I had put the wire probe in position J. When I put it in...

It is bolted to the rack in the engine bay, you would need to get under the car to access it. You'll be better off putting everything back together, then try putting the clip on. What are you actually trying to do?

It's doubtful you would damage the collapsible collar unless you're using a hammer pr using extreme force . Put the nut back on the shaft to give yourself something to hold onto and see if the shaft will pull out of the column, it may come out just enough to get the circlip on.

Put the circlip on the shaft just after the splined section. Use a piece of tube or a tube spanner over the shaft to push the circlip against the spring.

Could be the solenoid not throwing in. You could try whacking the solenoid with something but if that doesn't work you may need a new starter.

You're posting in the VN-VP section. The post relates to the VP wiring so I doubt it'll help you much.

Have you scanned for codes? That might give you a clue.

If the car runs a MAF sensor, check for air leaks in the intake hoses.

After I asked the neighbour if I could borrow one of his kids and he refused, I managed to slip a piece of submersible hose with a semi done up hose clamp onto the connection on the swirl pot. I used a flexible drive screwdriver to do up the clamp.

Yes, just the thin sheet steel one, I think that's what he's talking about.

How's your battery?

I don't know which wrecker 'Krusing' is talking about but to give you some idea of price, 'Upullit' have the wheel studs at $3 each and the brake backing plate at $13. A private wrecker may want more,some of them want to sell you the whole diff.

Changed the CAS and DFI module on the Eco smeg. Didn't fix the no start scenario...so cleaned the DFI connector out and took the black plastic cover off the connector, seems to be fixed but I'm leaving the cover off just in case...

I've just got my eco smeg going after having the crank ,no start...New CAS shat itself at the shop on Saturday, changed used VN DFI out to a brand new one (Goss) still wouldn't start. Finally started to drive home, wouldn't start Sunday. Been through and tested CAS and Cam Position Sensor all...

The spare DFI I had in the shed was a VN one, fit on and runs ok on the VS. The new one I bought is a Goss, don't know if that's going to be any good. Perhaps I should put it in and try it, just doesn't seem right to fix it now it's not broken.

I took a VS plastic booster in to have the reaction pad glued back on and they overhauled the lot. Cost about $300. I'd like to sell it but I'm scared I'll end up in the 'what do they want to sell for ridiculous money' thread.

If you have a look at the diagram in post #4, the recirc solenoid is actually shown as the intake solenoid. So you may have already checked it...

If it's only cylinder 3 and you have changed the coil and plug, how about the plug lead? (if used)

Your rear demister is an electrical element on your rear window. That's what the switch is for.

Those wires would go to the trailer plug. Whoever installed the towbar has chosen that route for the harness probably for ease of routing. On my ute the harness disappears underneath the tailgate and through a double panel.(viewed through the inspection cover at the rear of driver's side.) I...