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Had the same problem. Had to literally undo everything.. Toe adjuster rod, remove rear shock from hub, sway link things, brake line, cv joint and then had to lower it with a low profile jack all the way to the ground and still needed some compressing too. Felt good to get the new ones in tho.

So you bought genuine bosch fuel injectors? I bought mine off a guy who was selling them a bit cheaper and they came in bosch packaging but were clearly fake so i sent them back and got a refund. Then bought the genuine ones which cost me like $380 for set of 6. Fake ones came in bosch packaging...

I have gotten them out with just a screwdriver, you just pry up on the screw bit with a flat head and then you need to pull up on the screw as you unscrew it or it will just turn. I bought a big bag of them off ebay for like $10 and just replace them with new now.

I hope you didn't buy a cheap $15 no name one. Always use genuine or quality reputable aftermarket brands.

If they are the original leads and never been replaced then they definitely would need to be replaced by now.

You get a 1/2" threaded pipe with a 90 degree elbow screwed onto it and with another shorter piece of threaded pipe scewed onto the elbow, then all you do is screw that into the seal until its tight and just tap on the elbow and the seal pops out. I just realize you got the trans upside down so...

Also the best method i found to remove that seal is with the threaded pipe and elbow method all you do is screw the pipe into that seal then tap on the elbow and it falls out easy af

Mine literally looks exactly the same as that and i asked a similar question on here about why it is cracked cause i thought a chunk of metal broke off but it's perfectly normal from what i've seen if other 4l60e's have it too...

I used a protex gold pump which was actually a gmb pump and it has been fine for almost 4 years now. From memory I think it said it was made in japan don't know if that means it is good or not but you'd think it would be being made in japan.

I would have used that one too but it doesn't have the hat part that the genuine one has and if the genuine one has it then it must be there for a reason.

It's the one I bought and used and it came sealed in plastic

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/174366924578

The one that I bought and used is on ebay for $29.95 by onlineautoparts much cheaper than genuine but exact same style.

You need the genuine one or one that is the same style as the genuine. The genuine one goes over that metal part and is secured with a zip tie. When I first did my struts I used a kyb one that attaches to the bump stop and it didn't work good at all because it unattached from the bump stop. But...

I lowered mine on lovells sport low (40mm drop), kyb lowered shocks, ride is just as good if not better than stock. literally couldn't notice any harshness at all and i'm very sensitive to these things . I think 40mm is perfect amount of drop ultra low just looks silly (imo). and before...

Did you buy them from this guy? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-GENUINE-HOLDEN-COMMODORE-VT-series-2-VX-VY-VZ-FRONT-LOWER-CONTROL-ARMS-SAVE/291937861099?epid=26020181200&hash=item43f8da3deb:g:EIsAAOSwkqBehYmB&frcectupt=true i'm planning on buying those off him but not sure if his are 100% genuine.

Because nobody looks after their car and bothers to wax it. My vx has original paint and the clear coat is in pristine condition because i bothered to always keep it clean and put a coat of wax on it and use proper cleaning methods. After using a da on it with a lake country foam polishing pad...

The fuel filter has quick release fittings that you only need to squeeze the tabs in, push inwards, and then pull back but it doesn't work this easy when they get dirty so i recommend spraying it with wd40 and also using fuel line disconnect tool. also make sure you have the fuel filter oriented...

Just type in google images "holden vx rear toe adjuster" and you should see it at the top in the sponsored bit. am planning on buying it myself since mine look rusted and seized.

Yeah not sure why it's not working pasted the link correctly. Anyway sparesbox has what you are after, they have either the whole thing for $99 or just the ball joint bit for $77

https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/protex-tie-rod-end-fits-commodore-vx-vz-rr-toe-adjuster-te9830?gclid=CjwKCAiAjeSABhAPEiwAqfxURQJ71wG3ylSbxBN3rvGlQYBzcs0Z1LDh5cFf0Qu6auvl5UCxzPIPzhoCVNYQAvD_BwE

https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/protex-tie-rod-end-fits-holden-comm-vy-vx-toe-adjuster-te9830a?gclid=CjwKCAiAjeSABhAPEiwAqfxURYXRczomOvZdYPxO3HSl8cEHGCIwQCTAVapsnc7BhGLU0G9bDHjyvxoCaRgQAvD_BwE not sure about part number but i think this what you are after?

Holden vx berlina series 2 2002 v6. Uncle bought it brand new and in 10 years only put 50,000km on it, and then it became my car. It now has 210,000 genuine km. 18" BBS sx platnium silver diamond cut wheels with 235/40/r18 michelin ps4 tyre (last set available in whole world was told this by bbs...

I need a wheel alignment but i'm concerned about two things 1. How do I know if they will even do it properly? i've seen people say that alot of the workers who do wheel alignments don't even know what they are doing or how to use the machine. And this must be true because i've had an alignment...

Check there is no dirt blocking the ac condenser fins and radiator which will prevent air flow from passing through and cause overheating. I had my cooling system in A1 condition and it still overheated the only thing I can think of that caused it is oil blocking the radiator cores because thats...

$36 each is still cheap imo. Some sellers will sell a junk item for a bit more money and then try to make it out to be a quality item when in fact its the same cheap item other sellers are selling for $15 each. Unless it's genuine or a quality trusted aftermarket brand it wont be going in my car.

If they are sending the item back to hong kong then it sounds like you bought a cheap one of ebay which is not what you want to do. You are better off buying a genuine second hand sensor from the wreckers than buying a cheap no name sensor off ebay.

On the spring seat there is a W notch, does anybody know why this is there? I've read that it should be oriented a certain way but I don't see how that would affect anythinng.

I'd buy genuine but I can't justify spending $140 for 10 wheel studs ebay has them for $60 but not sure if I trust the quality.

I must've been lucky because all my pulleys came off easy.

I completely drenched my vx engine bay with degreaser and hosed it all down came out really good. I did cover the alternator, brake reservoir, coils with aluminium foil and I disconnected the battery and did it to a cold engine.

Yep already got them and they are very dusty.

What are the best low dust brake pads for a holden vx? i've read that qfm are good but can't find any in stock.

Is it ok to reuse the 3 bolts that hold the front wheel bearing assembly on? I've read about bolts being torque to yield and not to reuse them if they are.

Well it doesn't matter anymore because i removed the brake line and only a few drops came out. unbolted strut, unbolted drive shaft, unbolted link thing, removed brake line lowered the hub and spring STILL won't come out so now i'm going to have to remove the toe adjusting rod and then hopefully...

Not sure, I just remember reading a thread on here about bleeding the brakes 2 years ago and people said to keep an eye on the master cylinder and to not let it go empty or you'll get air in to the system and only a holden dealer with special tool can bleed it.

I need to remove brake line so I can lower the trailing arm further down so I can remove rear spring but i'm worried about all the fluid draining out because I think I read on here once that if you let it go empty and air gets in to the system you need to take it to a holden dealer to bleed it...

After fitting 18" wheels to my car i've noticed when i'm jacking up both wheels at the same time by jacking on diff the wheels shift inwards and you can hear the tyre rubbing on the concrete and it also shifts outwards when i'm lowering it back down is this normal?

I drove my vx for 20km overheated (regret it) just as I got home the radiator burst but engine never seized and so far it's been fine for 40,000km and burns no oil and no oil in radiator but I would never do that again. Still not sure why it overheated because around 10,000km before it...

Haven't tried tyre shop but I doubt they sell 82mm OD to 69.5mm ID actually had these hub rings custom made because nobody was selling them online. Wheel bore ended up being 81.7mm I never measured the wheel bore because my calipers wouldn't fit and on the box it said the wheel centre is 82mm...