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VS Caprice tyre placard says minimum load index 92. Winrun make a tyre with load index 93. But weirdly it has light-commercial tread pattern, not what you expect on low-profile tyres.

If you want correct rolling radius for VR on 20-inch, you will have not much sidewall. Damaged rims are odds-on. Probably 225/35R20 will fit without rubbing, but you will have to shop around for a brand that has enough load rating in that size. Is this for show-and-shine, or do you want to drive it?

VP IRS needed different offset to VR-VS, and much fewer VP-VQ with IRS were made, so probably few wheels would exist with suitable offset.

Resistance was used by GM North American years ago. Realistically, one can only detect 16 bands of resistance accounting for temperature and dirty contacts. So not much extra security. Holden didn't adopt that idea. VY uses rolling codes like most cars.

I would avoid the cheapest tops you find on fleabay. I got some and the rubber cones only lasted a few years.

IIRC, leave the key on for 2 hours, then the anti-theft goes off. Basically, only good for getting it to a dealer workshop without a tow-truck. If you got salt water inside, and it isn't reading the rolling codes, you will need somebody with a Tech2 scan tool to program a new key.

The VZ 190 engine was still rated at 340 Nm. I heard that the Crewman and Adventra had different ECU map for peak torque at lower RPM. I am not sure that would affect tranny lifespan.

Looking up specs, the Calais had power seats, rear park assist and speed-sensitive windscreen wipers that SV6 did not have.

Isn't that just WA? I believe the laws were relaxed for the Americans working at Exmouth base.

Actually, it is friction that supports the force of wheels on hubs. If the nuts are loose, then the weight could be on the studs. The centre bore is intended to support the weight briefly until the driver notices the racket of wheel bashing the studs and pulls over to side of the road.

dunno, but you would have to ream out the centre bore to get them on VT-VZ hubs

Engine randomly cutting out. I found the problem is that the DFI plug is cracked, so at least one contact is loose. I believe replacement connectors are still available, but it's a lot of wires to splice back. I was wondering if one could push the contacts back in place, then bog it up with...

then going to 18-inch wheels would be better, if they can fit over the brakes

but the centre of gravity of V8 is further forward than a V6. Putting 5-litre on V6 springs will definitely lower the nose the car....

No I believe it was triangulated 4-link (like on HQ-HZ Kingswood)

FE3 coils are same as FE2. FE3 has stiffer sway bars.

Sounds like the fuel rail is draining. Possibilities are fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, or an injector.

Yes, GMH run the engines this hot to vapourise the petrol, to meet emission standards. I had an older Commodore running on LPG and put low temperature thermostat in it. That would keep it cool when cruising, but still have the problem in city traffic that the fans don't come on until it gets hot.

NO - a coupe utility (monocoque) RWD with IRS. No such animal anywhere in the world.

EYEBROW HEIGHT is from centre of axle to edge of mudguard. The wheel and tyre has no effect on this. Is is a function of springs and whatever weight is sitting on them.

You need a second jack to force up the end of the stabiliser bar, so it will reach the link - probably more effort that way.

Check the fuses under the steering column. If only one door is not working, could also be broken wire.

All the suspension bushes are in good nick. Most of them are Superpro.

it did get a bigger intercooler as well, which was worth 25 kW....

I get a creaking sound when turning corners. The strut top bearings were changed a few years ago, so I doubt that is it. One other thing, it doesn't happen when cold, only after the temperature guage reached halfway. Just trying random ideas, I put an extra 100 kPa in the front tyres to reduce...

Can't find a VU2 or VY, but here is a VZ SV6 ute:

but utes (other than HSV) did not get toe control links

I got some slotted rotors at a clearance sale, can't remember what brand they were. I don't drive like Lewis Hamilton, but after driving though a flooded road, they still stopped pretty good, so was worth it.

The front struts are more or less the same in VR-VY. VZ strut has different stabiliser bar links, a smidgeon better, but won't fit VS. VF has newer virtual pivot front end. Much better, but that won't bolt into an old Commodore.

I totally agree, the Redline suspension is great. Don't mess with it.

I would say people are now worse because of looking at mobile phones/GPS et cetera. Secondly most people now driving vertically-stretched station wagons (aka SUV) or dual-cab pickup trucks, with higher centre of gravity.

Than FE1 (Omega/Berlina). Only HSV had significantly lower suspension in a VE.

Wrong. VE workshop manual say FE2 is a few mm lower in SS. but in SV6 actually a few mm higher.

Yes the VQ-VP IRS models have different offset, because of Holden's first attempt to transplant the Opel semi-flailing arms. Probably not many of them in circulation after 26 years.

VY2 Calais got the "FE1.5" susupension that was in between standard and FE2. Continued for VZ Calais, but not VE.

Also the Chev SS (US export) restraint code R - presumably means knee airbag

Are you asking about straight-line speed? There's a thread on whirlpool about top speeds. One poster reckons he did 200 km/h in a VR. Another reckons 202 km/h in a VE 3.6.

I was at a wreckers who had 1 alloy wheel matching mine, and I asked him about the older Dunnydores: he said he hasn't had a VN for yonks.

I also heard that Fiat-Chrysler would ditch the 300, but transfer Charger/Challenger to an Alfa Romeo platform. But will we ever see it RHD? I would have thought Charger would be a suitable replacement for Falcon/Commodore, but maybe Kia Stinger has filled that hole.