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Thanks for the replies everyone. I've just gone and performed the following: - Removed boot and glove box bulbs. They weren't warm or melted, I couldn't see any evidence that they were on but just in case. - Added another earth strap from the negative terminal of the battery to the ground...

I thought it was unusual too.

My VN certainly doesn't seem to mind over the last 10 years :spot on:

Haha that's gold! Typical though. At least they weren't cross threading the grease guns which I've seen as well lol

I couldn't tell you what she looks like inside. I've been fortunate enough to not have any issues that require opening her up. The first time I did a service after 30,000km I thought it'd feel different to drive afterwards. To my surprise I didn't notice a thing!

Sorry I probably should have explained better. While the car is running I get practically the same voltage from the alternator as I do from the battery. When the car is turned off it falls down to 13.5 volts at the battery within a few minutes and stays stable at 13.5 unless I draw any power...

Wouldn't be the first time!

I'm just suggesting you check your BCM relays with a multimeter as they can become stuffed from a short or other mishap. These can be repaired much cheaper than getting a new BCM and keys from Holden.

It shouldn't be too difficult if you've got the donor vehicle available when you're doing the swap. This is handy just in case you need any other bits or pieces.

I was measuring 14.2 volts from the alternator. I haven't seen the batteries over 13.5 volts. There's no corrosion surprisingly. What should resistance be on the wire between alternator lug and battery positive? I'm guessing it's okay since the batteries haven't been over 13.5 volts that...

Yep definitely a good idea to be running 98! A sensor may be running far enough out of spec to cause a problem but not far enough to throw a fault code. You could use a multimeter and check resistance on the sensors to determine whether they're still operating with manufacturer specifications...

Good suggestion. Also, the little grease that comes in bearings (or anything for that matter) if any is abysmal. I pack as much grease in as possible.

You're probably right. If I planned on my VN becoming a family heirloom (lol) I'd change the oil every 1000km :rofl2:

Hmm okay thanks mate. I'd read indications of mid 15's but I just wanted to confirm. Still heaps faster than my VN haha. Should be a very nice upgrade shortly :)

Also, there won't necessarily be a fault code with a stuffed sensor.

Running a higher octane fuel is not causing this issue. It could be an oxygen sensor. Your car will run in open loop mode which is a pre-defined air fuel ratio until it's up to operating temperature. Once it reaches operating temps then open loop mode will end and the ecu will begin closed loop...

They will fit on your car fine. I'm not sure what those alloys are load rated for. I've seen a few crack and shatter from rough rural roads and people hitting gutters. Try not to get blasted.

Are the VS wheel bearings different from VN? I do mud runs and drive through thick bulldust regularly without any issues from mine. When I do a deep water crossing I do a long drive before parking too.

Has your BCM been blasted with too much current and burnt out a switching modulator?

You just need a helmet mate. Roll cages and all that are for sub 10 second cars I believe. I haven't been down the strip in anything with traction control. I usually put a litre of octane booster in the tank and keep the tank as empty as possible when I run down the strip - keeps the vehicle...

I think holden suggest 10,000km servicing to rob people of their money. I've been doing this for over 10 years without issue. Because I used to dump the sludge in an urban area I started servicing less frequently to avoid detection. Old habits die hard I guess.

I've seen them welded up. That was pretty tight haha. It worked though!

My mistake. Wiring harness and bcm may need to be swapped. I'm not sure with the security on those later motors. Might need the head unit too. I'm sure someone else will chime in and confirm.

Make sure you get a muffler of the same cfm flow rate as per holden specification so your emissions stay within range and you don't get arrested. To be honest you might as well chop it and weld in straight pipe. Your motor will thank you.

It's actually VN2 onwards in my experience.

It's a pretty simple swap mate. Just get it done.

She's a tough old girl, doesn't phase her. I just run 5w30 so when it's sludgey it's not that thick and it pumps around easier than 15w40 or 20w50 would after that many kilometers without a change. The lighter oil makes the car feel like it's running better and even drives a bit harder. That...

You won't have any issues mate. Holden diddled the L36 in the VX onwards so you'll gain 5kw too. Just make it happen :)

When my father was getting his roadworthy on his Valiant Charger the mechanic called the police on him for doing this.

Depending on how long it has been on there, it may be seized. I like to drive a screwdriver through the filter for some leverage and twist it off that way. I only do my oil changes every 25-30K km so I always have to do it this way.

My boss was towing a 1.5 tonne boat and trailer combination in his VU. The tailshaft fell out and smashed up his diff housing and the boat. His was a manual gen 3 piston slapper not the 3.8. Have a safe trip mate!

My neighbour stole my brake lines out of my VN. I installed VX lines in my VN without issue.

It doesn't fluctuate much from 14.2 volts. Idle, limiter bashing it, highway cruising etc.

I chopped my muffler box out and welded straight pipe in its place. My car sounds heaps better and passed roadworthy! Easy quick fix and it's surprisingly not much louder than it was. I don't have any problems with police or anything. I swear my car runs better and goes harder since I did...

When the indicators were acting spastic on my VN I think the dealership slapped around my BCM to fix it.

I rolled around with an inch larger diameter spare tyre for 6 months on my VN. I didn't notice any issues myself. It's probably not recommended lol

There's no aftermarket stereo or lights or anything. I've been keeping an eye on alternator voltage output and it seems to sit around 14.2 volts.

Hey guys, I'm thinking about buying a VF shortly. Just wondering what the SV6 sedans run down the quarter mile on average? Just stock, no mods. Is there much difference between auto and manual? Cheers!

My manual says to use Dexron 2 but I don't think it's made anymore? I just use Dexron 3 in mine. It's been working fine for years with it. Mine was making groans while steering at low speed (car parks) when my belt was too tight on the power steering pump pulley. Something to check perhaps.

+1 the same thing happened on my exec