Search results

Pretty sure they dropped the ssv for 2017. I might be wrong? 2017 redline has brembos, sunroof, Bose audio, ssv embroided on the passenger side dash, 19 inch redline wheels, mylink background is red instead of blue, not sure what else

Probably dreaming about the LSA swap (sounds expensive).. but 400 engine kW out of a supercharged LFX is achievable. Some people can't accept that though, as they have that disorder you get when one purchases a V8. happy to stand corrected with some logic behind the narrow minded...

Yeah sorry, what I mean is the LSA isn't conservatively tuned just to make it more reliable.. it's a well known slug in its stock form (alot of disappointed owners at the dyno).. and as you are well aware, can be made to be alot more efficient with some very basic mods.. intake and tune will see...

Really? have you seen what an LSA makes with a tune and intake?

Why more boost? the LFX is more efficient so would require less boost.. and like I said earlier, dynamic compression can be altered with continuous variable valve timing. An LF4 will make 420kw (engine) with an air filter cat back and tune.. so again very conservatively tuned by GM. All doable...

Aren't the LT4/5 engines known for there reliability?? which backs up the fact that the LSA isn't "conservatively built, tuned and configured for reliability" reasons.

thats cool.. so the LF4 makes 1.3kw/L more than an LSA

All OEM engines are conservatively built and tuned with reliability in mind. But bottom line is the LSA is very inefficient in terms of its power to displacement ratio - in its stock form. modified is a different story.. But to say that the 3.6L can't make 400kw because "an LSA only makes...

Which emphasises how inefficient a stock LSA is..

He did say at the engine.. 3.6L at one bar would be equivalent to 7.2L NA.. just a question on what the internals can handle, dynamic compression can be adjusted with the advantage of variable valve timing.. all sounds doable with some smart tuning.. alot easier with more displacement though.

Would make more sense to start with a V8 chassis if it's going to be registered. Less hoops you will have to jump through to get it all engineered/certified. Preferably something that already has bigger brakes like a redline. Less things that need to be engineered the better. An sv6 would be a...

Perhaps your tuner was playing it safe and didn't put too much timing into it?.. when mine was getting tuned he was nearly finished and decided to add 1 degree timing which picked up an extra 5hp. Clutch is starting to go now, so will be adding a rip shifter and Harrop true trac when that...

Interesting.. I have the same cam specs and went from 298kw to 340kw tuned on bp ultimate. I was pretty happy with the end result considering it's a fairly mild spec cam.

Higher cylinder pressures cause more blow by past the piston rings. Even naturally aspirated, these engines seem to have a lot of blow by. I'm guessing GM don't use torque plates when they hone our engines.

Do the mighty mouse catch cans vent to atmosphere? or do they make a plumb back version as well?

I purchased my Monroe short shocks off eBay for $500 delivered to my door, seller was called archm-suspension. Had to send them a message as they didn't have them advertised. They also sell monroe shock with kingspring kits for $780 pretty good shock for the price.. huge improvement over the...

Yeah fair enough just cant think of many situations where you would be using more than 40L/100kms of fuel at a constant rate.. maybe towing a caravan slowly up a steep hill?? And if your wanting to know your fuel usage on a take off (while accellerating) its going to be limited anyway, as it's...

Must be a bit of a hoon eh? They probably have it set to 39.9 L/100kms so you keep your eyes on the road instead of worrying about instant fuel usage when putting your foot down.. The display already gives us heaps of feedback with regards to fuel consumption as it is..

Sounds like your stressing over nothing.. what parts are you going to go shop for? Once the 7 years is up there will be plenty of parts available from wreckers etc..

Pretty sure it defaults to open no matter what state you pull the fuse. I had mine apart and it's springloaded with alot of tension. I moved my bimodel valves to some cutouts I welded before the mufflers. my valves open back up when I turn the car off even if they are set to quiet.

yes they are spring loaded to the open position, once the car fires in quite mode they close fairly quickly within a second or two.

This is spot on. Try to react to TC and it can potentially bite you on the arse. For alot of people it's a natural reaction to countersteer and control slide through an accelerator, so whether they choose to leave TC on or not comes down to personal preference and driving style. Like i said...

But but but I thought TC was super smart and should know you're in first gear.. going 5kmph.. highly calibrated bit of kit we got on the commy. Must have been some great r&d that went into that one......

You are correct. Not recognising the hazard or driving to conditions would be the answer.. but what is traction control for again??

*yawn*

Rear end stepped out, TC intervened half way through the slide, gripped hard and sent me toward a guard rail. Dry day with a wet section of road that I didn't see. But basically lost all control of the throttle for a couple of seconds. Never had a drama with TC turned off as the vf chassis is...

yes a far more calibrated and precise traction control.. our traction control is slow and clumsy. has got me in to trouble twice now. lesson learnt don't use traction control..

Traction and stability control in a manual car is madness. Dangerous and unpredictable. Takes away the ability for the driver to manuvour the car when it's out of control for whatever reason. Glad we can switch it off!!

is yours auto?

I didn't have my car stock for very long was around 10L from memory..

almost no difference in fuel usage when cruising at 100kmph my vf2 with stock cam and 298kw best average fuel economy was 8.2L per 100km with a cam and 340kw best average is 8.4L per 100km.

You would think so, however I rang around a few insurance mobs that all said installing a GPS tracking system will have no effect on insurance rates - unless the car came standard from the factory with GPS, which I'm surprised most cars don't. Even my power tools have GPS tracking via Bluetooth.

8kw peak or accross the board?

you'll catch less oil if your just cruising at a steady rpm. I think you need a better media to cool and condense the blow by gasses compared to just filtering the gases with mesh. highly recommend the elite engineering catch can.

I'd be questioning whether those catch cans even work.. or maybe it's not set up correct? here's mine after 200km of around town driving. I usually empty it every 1000km as it has alot of oil in it by then.

yep my clutch is the same, very soft towards the floor but as soon as you start to engage the clutch, it springs back up. very annoying in stop go traffic but seems to make gear changes very slick and fast, and the quick bite makes clutch dumps a breeze. My stock clutch had copped a decent...

I dunno.. surely there's a limit to drivability and cam size. What cam are you running in your daily? I bet it isn't a silky smooth 240/250.. I think there will always be a sweet spot where you can get a decent cam to surge/buck a bit (in a manual) but it comes down to your driving style and...

I disagree.. sounds like you went too big. You can pick up say ~20kw and have near stock manners with improved power/torque everywhere. Once you start pushing for say +40kw you will start to sacrifice manners. LS3 responds very well to small/med cams.

interesting.. anything on the rubber hose that sits inside the coolant reservoir??

I'd go with a smaller split something like 222/228-112 under .600 lift