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Yes, and possibly. That is my first port of call when it comes to sorting it out, but I'll get it idling right first. When I setup the carby first I was told to tighten it to "light closing pressure", bu I assumed it would take some adjusting once it was all on and running

Possible i guess, but its on about 12deg btdc and there is bugger all room to advance it

Alright, so I'm back at it again. I can't for the life of me remember what I changed but I've got it idling fine around 7-800rpm 90% of the time. According to the tacho at least. I swear it sounds more like 12-1500rpm, but I guess I could be wrong. Pretty sure all I did was block off a few...

Very much doubt it. Looks like its up and down all over the place. A nice neat dent like that I might have a shot at, but doubt it with a messy one

PM's & email sent. I'm located in Chadstone now too

My boss has a black one of these, tuned + exhaust + more boost and it is amazing to drive. Better in every way than the VE's. Comfier, better looking, nicer to drive. He has ruined his with 19 or 20" chrome wheels though

Well its taken a while, but I'm finally setup enough for the odd weekend job here and there. I think I've PM'd everyone who showed an interest earlier, but for everyone else, I'm not looking to to big hail jobs just yet, just the odd car park dent etc. I'll donate say, 5% of every job that...

Yep, but then i hooked it back up while i was playing with the idle.

my mechanic said the same thing. I thought i plugged it into the vacuum port it came out of though. Could have been wrong

I've just packed up the tools and put on the car cover, about to head back to Melbourne, so I can't check the vacuum now. It didn't sound like it was down a cylinder or anything like that. Seemed perfectly smooth while it was running. The 3rd "mixture screw" is on top, between the primary and...

Aaand...it'll still idle at 1200rpm nicely, and revs well from there. But, it does sometimes try and take off by itself. The idle is sometimes creeping up by itself until at least 2500rpm, which is usually when I shut it off. And I did have it down to around 1000rpm for a while before it...

Oh I've figured that out. I think I might have messed with one of those "don't mess with this bit" bits while rebuilding it. The metering rods and going in and out like mad while it coughs and dies. I have a feeling I screwed the mixture right up somehow They are meant to be a decent carby...

Right, so I've got it up and running finally. It'll idle at a little over 1000rpm fine (the tacho has a dodgy wire so doesn't always work), but as soon as I adjust it down any lower it splutters, backfires and dies. I could use another hint or 2 here

cheers, i have an old "remote starter switch" designed for exactly what you said in the pm, but never even thought about it. Ill make sure i have it with me next time

yep, its anticlockwise. The firing order is set according to whatever the repair manual and owners manual said. I did try a different one from online at one point though. The rotor spins with the crank so i assumed everything was slotted in right. My money is on it being a notch or 2 out. It did...

Almost. That was my first instinct, til i checked the diagram i had

According to my manual, ford manual and some online diagram, its 1234 down drivers side (from front), then 5678 on passenger side (from front). My manual said 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 (I think), then the online diagram from an american mustang 302 clevo had a slightly different firing order. So, I...

So, not having lots of experience with the mechanical side of things (and none with old v8's), I've just put in a new distributer and rebuilt the carby on my XC (302 clevo, carter thermoquad carb) and now it won't start. It turns over, but backfires through the carby and doesn't fire. Now...

I got foam backed velour from a trimmers, but it wasn't in Melbourne. Jump on google and see if there are any trimmers around you. Wasn't cheap though. Either $75/m or $75 all up, it was a while ago now.

I thought so first too, and double-checked it (finger in the hole). I think tomorrow I'll pull it all out and start again. Also had a decent poke around under the car. Front shockers and exhaust must have been replaced not long before getting taken off the road, and there are only 1 or 2...

I'm back on the interwebs! And also back with the car for the weekend. And can't get the stupid thing running again. After I put in the new ignition and fixed-up carby, it'll turn over but not fire. A couple times it coughed and backfired for a bit, but never ran. I assume its a timing thing...

$120 if you can come get them. Located in Chadstone now

Bah, it's ground to a frustrating halt while I recover financially from spending a LOT more and earning a LOT less than I planned to over christmas/new years. I think all it needs is to have the carby put back on (and tuned), then to give the brakes an overhaul and it should be right to bring...

Alright, they stuffed up the hard rubbish booking and now its going to be on the street all week. 6 Cooper St, Springvale South. I've taken the wheels & PA amps, but the rest is either already on the street or will be by tonight. Let me know if you were interested in anything and I'll hang...

I've seen a LOT of fords where the park switch thingo has gone. When it doesn't start, put the selector in neutral and try again. If it starts in neutral but not park then theres your problem

Whatever is left is going on the street this weekend. Either offer me something for it or pick it up off the side of the road before the hard rubbish guys beat you to it. PICKUP THIS WEEKEND ONLY

Don't worry too much about it. You'll be defected and putting it back to standard height in a week anyway. No damage will be done until then though

Move it down the road...

I have had both greenfoam and mace's memcals and loved them both. Maces feels a bit more refined, whereas greenfoams was quicker 0-100.

You're kidding right? Redvs....it depends how much you want to spend. A basic headunit, and the best splits you can afford for starters, then if the budget stretches a bit, add an amp, then if its a bit bigger again sound deaden at least your doors. If you let me know a budget I can quote...

Are they? I was about to say good things about the old (almost vintage) peerless/vifa speakers I built as a home theatre setup, but it might be a completely different kettle of fish

Looks too thick to me too. Rather than layering the bog on a bit at a time, can I suggest trying to straighten out the panel a bit more before simply bogging it up? More work now, but less pain in 12 months when it cracks up again

Cut the connector off and crimp/solder some female blade terminals on. Whatever size fits the speaker terminals. Jaycar or any electrical shop will have loads of connectors to choose from for about 10c each

Hate to sound like a broken record, but check your earth. If it looks fine, pull it off and try earthing somewhere else. Make sure you sand back the new earth as well

It was a few years ago when I put mine in, but I know I had to run most of my own wires for it. I have a feeling there was a problem with using the lights wiring. What model is the unit? Or, do you know what the wires are you are looking for?

Little 2 seater sports car vs v6 family sedan. Hmm...I dunno

It'd wanna be a pretty freakish commodore to even come close

Not 100% true. Pillars are some of the more difficult dents for PDR, but a decent dent guy will still be able to get almost any hail sized dent out without needing filler or painting. Even then, any repairer who simply skims bog over hail dents won't be in the business much longer. But yes, if...

I take off those one-way screws at work with a regular flat head screwdriver. It just takes 5 mins longer than normal. Fancy security screws are more of a hassle but can still be taken off damage free with basic tools.

The foam memcal is meant to be getting picked up tomorrow, but I'll let you know if it falls through