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Just an update guys the cluster keeps dying, have to keep smacking around the dash or cluster to get it going. When I wiggled the cluster plug it was in good nice and snug any ideas why it’s not suppling power?

Yeah sweet as changed over the studs no dramas cheers

H How can you remove the studs? Grinder?

Just had a go at it and can confirm ABS wheel bearings for front are one sided only, only 2 bolt holes lined up

Okay thanks mate, the wheel studs on the RHS snapped off so have to replace the bearing. I tried lining up the bearing last night and it doesn’t work with the dowel location and ABS sensor hole unfortunately, I think only non-ABS are either sided

Has anyone cut and sanded the locating dowel on the wheel bearing hub face (steering knuckle)? I have a spare LHF wheel bearing only but my RHS has failed. Thought either sides were interchangeable. Need it sorted urgently so would want to know whether it’s worthwhile to do. Cheers

Alright well… I’m speechless I had a crack at looking at the cluster pin outs since this car keeps me awake at night. While I had the ignition on I wiggled the cluster plug and everything lit up… I started the car and checked battery voltage and received 14.4 sweet volts…. I just can’t get my...

Okay I’ll check out the cluster pin outs and get back to you cheers for your help

So it’s not pin 6? I’ve never touched that ground only when I took out the charging system harness but it’s back on there right

Does your alternator charge the battery or is your cluster just dead?

I have SOE not much data for cluster or power supply in interior, mainly engine sensors and o2

Okay I will check out the cluster when I get time

These chunky ones the fusible links?

I just confirmed fuse 11 works (both sides) when park lights are on Fuse 21 works (both sides) ignition off constant 12V Looks like cluster board is finished? Or the fusible links?

I hope the PCB board in the cluster isn’t fried but I don’t know how that would happen with no power for a while then a sudden 12V spike after months since battery was disconnected

So I checked fuse 13 and 21 they only both work with ignition ON. As I mentioned before how the middle column of fuses were dead they worked with a test light with ignition ON so I guess it gets 12V when ignition is on and not constant 12V. I have confirmed every fuse under the dash works with...

Okay will do thanks Also not sure why immobiliser light flashes yet mode button does not work? Entirely different circuit? Immobiliser does disengage since the car runs. Mode and hazard buttons worked prior to job so something shorted and blew heaps of things when I connected battery...

If you could find something that would be appreciated thanks

How do you test those? The big ones in the engine bay?

Side note car had pre-existing airbag light no ABS fault and cluster worked perfect before rear main job

Engine cont BCM and fuel pump fuses were dead, replaced with new ones and still no power, checked the inputs into the fuse box no power. Car still runs and idles really weird. All other fuses working

I replaced all fuses under the dash that the test light failed them on… when I replaced and tested again nothing lit up But yes cluster has been dead since I reconnected the battery after at least 4 months. What other checks can I do for the cluster? Thanks

i have confirmed 12V from positive terminal of ALT to engine block and 12V at plug beginning to think the alt i got is a dud...

Hey all have a bit of an electrical issue with me 02 LS1 calais I replaced rear main and inlet manifold gaskets and during that time battery was disconnected. Earlier this week once everything was ready to fire up, I connected the battery and noticed the cluster did not work (gauges, no...

So I think the alternator is cooked… I did remove it as well as PS pump to give the front cover a good clean.. maybe some brake cleaner got into the connections (I only wiped the alt didn’t flog it with brake cleaner). I checked many fuses and some weren’t illuminating with test light, I checked...

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Also cluster seems dead, kms are shown but no illumination of any lights, no needles move, needles don’t light up nothing. Could this and idle issue be ECU related? Car has not been started for few months and it’s a Calais thanks

Bit of an update guys, cars all done after multiple repairs during rear main seal (had to remove manifold to get top bellhousing bolt so ended up replacing all associated gaskets). The exhaust is 90% in not necessarily flush to the cat flanges but I decided to start it up today and instantly...

Yeah I get you, I’m assuming I just slide converter out then replace the seal on the shaft then lock the converter back on?

Okay I’ll have a look at that but any ideas of the trans fluid around the engine sump? Also I never removed the TC it’s still in place engaged onto the gearbox so is there a chance it could still leak?

The one behind the transmission pump?

No I can’t remember the seal on the TC shaft I’ll have a look next time plus it’s packed with grease so will need to clean it off. Is the seal just an o-ring? Weird thing is there was barely a leak before I underwent this job and even ran engine every now and then with no progressive leak...

So managed to remove and refit the gearbox after replacing rear main seal (haven’t ran car since removing gearbox), car still doesn’t have tailshaft and exhaust on so need to finish up… had to remove intake manifold to remove top bellhousing bolt so decided to do those gaskets as well as last...

Found some good info thanks

cheers mate good help

Don’t have a manual unfortunately which one is recommended - Gregory’s, Haynes, Ellerys etc?

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Also when removing torque converter is it okay to rotate the flex plate with a flathead or turn the harmonic balancer? Does the gearbox have to be in neutral when removing from engine? Thanks

Where is it best to disconnect the auto shifter from the gearbox? I’ve attached pics where the rod attaches to the gearbox in 2 places Cheers