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there are many good car audio places in perth, i take it from the list of choices you have been at an alberts store. out of those three, i personally would pick the mb quarts. i have had a set of discus 6.5" for 4 years now, and they are still going strong. try taking a look at audio art or some...

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SQL, sound quality level, a combination of sq and spl.

you could try cutting the plastic grill completely out of the centre of the pod, or just where the tweeter would protrude. the factory metal mesh grilles (easily sourced if they didn't come with the car) will cover this and hopefully give you a good few extra mm of installation space. failing...

yes, that will be fine. parallel connection is where the positives of the drivers are connected to each other then the amplifier (ie one wire from the amp to one of the drivers + terminal, then from that terminal to the other drivers + terminal), or both to the amplifier directly (ie each...

for a set up like that, you will not need an amp to run 6x9's. you also will not need to upgrade yor wiring. if you do use an amp for your rears, no power will be 'diverted' to any other speaker channels. having no rears powered from the headunit will not provide any more power to the fronts.

that stuffing is used to trick the enclosure into thinking it is larger than it actually is. essentially, it adds volume to the box. im not sure if it would affect the sound of the woofer in a negative manner.

the voice coil metal will not change its electrical or mechanical properties after many uses, hence they do not need to be run in. yes, passing a current through the coil/s will change its properties due the very nature of the material, ie changing resistance/impedance given current/temperature...

speakons are cool, i never thought of using them in car audio tho. they would be great for dual coil drivers. im with 12 volt, it might be the occasional pain in the arse to have to disconnect the wiring from the amp if you need to remove the box, but cable straight from amp terminals to woofer...

for the money, that is a very good deal. these woofers are great value for money new, and 2 for 120 is great, considering they are in good nick. i used to have one of these myself, and was impressed with the performance for the price. these will run fine off a monoblock so long as the power...

it's your cash, and if you want to spend it on car a/v gear, go for it. only do what pleases you, not everyone else.

a plastic shield like you have done is a good way to avoid this, so long as it is solidly mounted and wont vibrate.

these connectors pictured can be used for bare wire screwed down under the nut (as in the picture), banana plugs pushed straight in and you could use ring terminals if they fit the stud, then screwed down under the nut.

drill holes slightly larger than the cable, slide the cable in and silicone the holes.

your ears will tell you what sound best. personal choice ensures no one brand produces a product superior to any other. there are however brands that do specialise in the production of certain components, and brand x makes better quality speakers/amplifiers/source units etc than brand y and so...

some 6.5" drivers dont fit the standard pods. you may need to cut down the front of the pod so the whole thing is flush with the original mounting flange or cut out the middle section or enlarge the original hole, or all of the above. try using a hacksaw blade and a hot knife tip on a soldering...

ah, nothing like the old pc power supply for running car audio gear on the bench. specs: 12V and as much current as you can find. high current bench power supplies can be pricey tho. you can usually find a 12V 5A output on pc power supplies if i remember right. that should get you started.

sure, solder new rca's on. it's not difficult.

3 amplifiers off a main power cable of 8 gauge is questionable to start. upgrade this to at least 4 gauge, 2 or 0 gauge is even better. then see what problems you still have. capacitors are really only band-aid solutions at this stage.

shocks do not affect ride height, this is determined by springs. shortened shocks means the travel in the shock absorber is shorter than standard, as the lower spring height will wear out a factory shock (which has more travel) as it is always under compression. shorter shocks are used as they...

you could parallel the corresponding audio signals together, and isolate them from each other so they are never connected to each other or the amplifier at the same time. you could hook up some form of relay or switch circuit that makes contact on the audio signal cables from the source unit you...

any speaker can be 'blown' if not used correctly. i don't have them in my car, but i have heard several sets of them, and they sound decent.

i think you can get a factory holden 110amp alternator to suit

shortening rcas to the correct length means you dont have a big roll of cable stuffed away somewhere. keeping them the right length keeps them neat and tidy. and, while minimal, less length on the cable means less opportunity for outside interference to affect signals. again, this is only a...

wiring may be the issue, but check fuses, relay etc first. is it the factory headunit?

roof and gutter silicone is your friend, use it to fix things you might think are loose, and put a bead of it between your bootlid and its subframe. use roof and gutter as it is not acetic based, and wont cause rust. then, get a good quality sound deadener, like dynamat or stinger (there are...

sure can, grab a soldering iron and someone who knows how to solder an RCA onto coax, get some decent RCA connectors and that will work. I always buy cable and connectors and cut the cable to length and solder my own connectors on. give it a burl. if im feeling slack, i'll buy some decent...

g'day guys, just wondering where the best earth for amplifiers (2 or 4 gauge cable) is in the boot of a vs sedan. also, what are the pros and cons of running the negatives straight back to the battery terminal? any help would be great. cheers, john.

that will work fine

or, omit the rear speakers all together, run the stock rears off the head unit, get a decent 4 channel amp, decent front speakers and sub. then run the fronts and sub off the one amp, saving coin and space, and will sound just as good as most above suggestions. again, jaycar will give good bang...

what amps are you using and how is the system wired? you may be having amplifier load or thermal problems if all cable terminations are sound.

a fuse rating is what current the fuse can pass, not necessarily what it will blow at. fuses can handle 2 to 3 times the rated current instantaneously before they blow. circuit breakers are good, but come in limited amperages, however will trip just like 12volt said. fuses however, are cheap...

do not buy off ebay unless they are guaranteed to be brand new and genuine, not refurbished, which the cheap ones are. they are fake, or serviced stock being sold for cheap. like has been said, if the price is too good to be true, it probably is. buy locally, be assured the product is real, and...

i doubt a flat shelf would fit very well. try fibreglassing the shelf. this should give you the strength you're after to support speakers without mounting to the existing metal frame under the shelf, and be a much more accurate fit than a timber shelf. this is, of course, assuming you want to...

if you haven't soldered before, don't try it for the first time on your new speakers, it may well end in disappointment.

once the battery is disconnected, all your head unit settings would have been defaulted. as said above, return your settings to the way you had it before you disconnected the battery and all should be well.

you could possibly end up with dry joints in the amplifier

you're dead right, apologies. 6" they are. 6.5" speakers wont fit without modification. thanks for that semi.

they're actually 6.5". 6.5 inchers wont fit in without modification.

i doubt you will be able to wire the front and rear speakers together off a stock h/u. the impedance load will be too low. plus, you will lose any fade control.