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Its not that uncommon for auto industry to be subsidized by the government. It happens all over the world. Don't forget mining gets its fair share of government funds too, no one cares about that.

get the ls1 bracket for the raptor :) Usual wear and tear aside, Ive never heard any bad things about the vy ss. A mate of mine had one and he still regrets selling it, even though he has a VE SS now...

Regular Xenon globes are not HID. HIDs have separate transformers to make them run and don't have filaments.

You can just buy these from supercheap or where ever, jaycar possibly. waterproof plug. edit: here Automotive Waterproof Plug & Socket Set - 2 way - Jaycar Electronics

its damn well illegal too :)

Goto Autopower car paint center, they can mix hothouse green and put it a spraycan https://www.google.com.au/search?q=AUTOPOWER+CAR+PAINT&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-beta

Id probably use neoprene or something foam-like. Maybe like the stuff they use for stubbie holders.

are those seats in the last pic original, or retrim, or covers?

Hot water....

in theory, the Series 1 had a single CAT system and series 2 had a twin system. However this is not totally accurate since i believe the twin cat system came out in early 2004, and series 2 started september/october 2003. Have a look under your car and see what type you have.

buy these, they fit: Holden Commodore VX-VY Fog Lamp SS L=R SOLD SINGLY AS (1)

Nightshades is crap. its too flat. My suggestion is to get a paint place to mix some clear with a bit of black paint. then do as many coats as you want and it will still be shiny.

cool thanks, i dont plan on using it that much

Kincrome Valve Spring Compressor K8142 | eBay Ive see a youtube video of a similar tool being used on an l67

Its the big pulley in the middle, you will need a harmonic balancer puller to get it off, you also have to remove the bolt which is as tight as buggery. Ive heard people have also swapped the horn relay for the engine control relay and sometimes this fixes the issue. Also there's a CAM sensor...

The return line dosent suck the fluid, it gets pushed with the supply line.

Copper grease usually

Apart from being painted red or yellow, i cant see the actual difference, if any. The part number on the box is SPC2R

lots on ebay, not cheapest things though 92140918 SEAT BACK CLIPS X2 SUITS COMMODORES VT VX VU VY VZ INC HSV | eBay

yeah, but its about ready to fall off.

I have a VY and it has a metal support that sits under the radiator and is spot welded to the chassis rail. I have managed to bend mine and i cant unbend it. I can get the part off holmart. I was wondering whether i could just rivet the new one on? would it be as strong as a spot weld?

yeah looks good so far, good work

fair enough, what kind of paint is it?

why are you waiting a week between coats?

maybe, get some jumper leads and connect the starter motor directly with the ignition on, see if it fires up then.

can you actually turn the motor over by hand/spanner?

What i did was i got a really long flathead screwdriver, like 40-50cm. then i shoved it in the vent in the side on the rotor. then i rocked it back and forth about 1000 times and it came free.

You have to pull the whole door trim off, the grille is attached with circlips.

You just need to peel it off. You can use a bit of fishing line to cut through the adhesive on the back on the badge, then use orange glue remover to remove the excess. You may find you'll probably need to buy a new Acclaim badge with the adhesive. Because if you try glue or double sided tape...

Body control module. does a lot of the electronic systems in the car. it sits under the dashboard near the steering column.

I very much doubt it would be the hazard switch, but the BCM controls the blinkers so that may be something to look at.

front one you undo the small dust cap on the back of the headlight rear you need to undo the thumbscrews (look like double sided hook things) and remove the whole taillight, or just unplug it. The guard one you can slide a credit card under it to unclip it. you need to do it from the "fatter" end

yep, should be labeled. no idea how to test it though, unless you replaced it. To start with id take all the globes out and install each separately and see if they work. there might a short somewhere.

flasher module stuffed?

I would never buy a car that's ex-anything. there's a reason cops get rid of their cars after a short time. Hyandais are fine for going to the shops but can you imagine if cops of taxi drivers used them, theyd be ####ed. Ive heard of far more BMWs "break down" than holdens or fords.

Thermostat faulty? The fact that the cars done 3.6 million ks ? :)

sikaflex is what is used originally.

i had the same issue, but it was only when i had the steering at full lock for some reason i ended up taking it all apart and spraying silicone lube onto all the moving parts and cleaned the butterfly with carby clean. came good.

take a look here: https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/guide-removing-vy-vz-steering-wheel.79695

Just goto jaycar or a computer shop and buy a tube of heat transfer paste. The reason its there is because the surfaces between the DFI and metal bracket have an inperfect surface. the heat pad or paste fills the tiny gaps between the two. you dont really need it