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I took it to work this morning and changed over the other two coils. I think it is idling better. Maybe just needed a run too. It's still a little lumpy at idle but giving the engine a pump is a lot smoother. I thought maybe part of the shake is from engine mounts but the engine doesn't really...

Little update. I got hold of a secondhand dfi and coils. I only changed the coil that didn't give correct readings on the multimeter. There was no change in the idle. I cleaned the maf, air temp and icv. No change. The new coil has a much lower resistance when checking from lead point to lead...

The wiring TO the dfi plug (inside the dfi) or the dfi plug TO the dfi (on the wiring loom side) ? The way I'm getting a good test on the coil but not when the coil is plugged into the dfi is suggesting its the dfi itself. Have to do a test on that later today.

Well I know one coil is rooted though. I don't need to check fuel or air until that's done. I just did the intake manifold. The vaccum lines are fine, they were checked when I did the manifold. Had to replace one. 80 bucks for a coil isn't exactly an expensive item when it's one that definitely...

Haven't tested whether it's the dfi. Will do that tomorrow. Won't be able to get parts til next week. But I'll block off the egr to see how much that helps. And report back next week if the issue is resolved by the few suggestions.

The rough idle and acceleration was definitely something that got wet. There's been a few threads about it here. This is just the original much less intense rough idle that I bought it with. I mean, it idles fine, its just not smooth. Take off and driving is what you would call perfect. I know...

Do you know what the output readings on your alternator was?

Nah, just unplugged. I didn't think about it affecting the idle. When I do plug it in and try to drive from cold it splutters and carries on until the revs get up high enough. Not sure if that indicates it being stuck open or closed. Is it possible to get the things working again without buying...

Egr definitely isn't the issue. Was disconnected when I bought it as it was buggered. Will get around to that eventually. I'll get to cleaning and testing and if it's all good report back to finish off the thread. Appreciate the tips for narrowing it down.

Didn't use a pressure washer thank god. But I'll take better care and try and keep it contained to the block next time. Cheers for the tip.

Little update. Took the car for a small drive and it seems to be behaving as before. I guess the original rough idle might be due to the coil pack?

I hadn't cleaned that, no. I'll check it out. I just did the multimeter tests on the coil. The paperclip one came up good. But the second test where you test between the plug contacts was a fail on one coil. Got no reading whatsoever. Could this be the issue and how would it all of a sudden...

Sorry, not familiar with the acronym iac? I did give the throttle body a clean when I had it off. I'll clean the connectors when I go to bolt the coils back on. I gave the car a quick check this morning just while parked and it seemed better. I'm leaning towards water slowly drying atm. But...

There's a line going from the corner on the left towards the purple stamp. I forgot to bloody do the multimeter test before bloating it back together!

Just wondering if this is the dreaded crack people talk about with coil packs? Little line top left hand corner.

I am unable to check for codes atm. If it comes to that I'll just get it diagnosed. I'll end up getting one of those plugs in the future. I sprayed from the manifold down. I tried to keep it away from the coils. Is the dfi plug the bigass plug that goes into the bottom of the coil pack? I'll...

Hi, so I had to replace my intake manifold gasket, recondition the p/s pump, replaced the water pump while I was there and recently had to do the alternatorrregulator. After a few hiccups in that process the car seemed fine until I gave the radiator and engine a flush and change plus a degrease...

Update to close out the thread. I replaced the regulator. The readings went up a bit and the issue seems to be resolved.

Yeah, I know it took me a bit. Just had to get more information and see the voltage drop on the dash. I did notice after putting the regulator back I gained 0.2 volts while driving or idling in park. Was still low when stopped with my foot on the brake. I'll get them replaced, test it out for a...

Update: pulled the regulator off after reading another post with same symptoms and the suggestion. Looks like the brushes are indeed clapped out. One more than the other, may not see it but the last image the brush further away is a lot smaller than the other. The other thread advised if there...

Well that's a bit ****. Thought I had it pinned down.

I think I'll do some research on testing each.

Sorry. Where's the brushes?

Well I'm not 100 percent up to speed myself but I'm fairly sure the alternator has the brushes. Not the regulator. Low voltage =alternator. High voltage = regulator.

Would that be the issue? I thought a failed regulator would be high voltage. A failed alternator low voltage. Or just go the cheaper option and see what happens? Worst case, I don't have to worry about the regulator any time soon.

Little update. Didnt have anything light up on the way to work but the voltage did drop down to 13.1 while waiting at some lights and then again at another set. While parking up at work I pumped the air con and turned the high beams on and she dropped to 12.8. While driving it was a solid...

I'm just not seeing how the voltage is the issue if its showing correct voltage when the issue happens. I'd assume there'd be a dip. But I'll do another test run and take it in to get diagnosed and update the thread for anyone else looking.

Sorry, the splutter comment was to the other guy about the loose cable. I used the onboard battery voltage reading and it gave good results even during when the lights were coming on in the dash. It does make sense that it would be a battery/alternator issue though as thats the first light to...

It doesn't last very long. Comes and goes in the space of a 3 to 5 seconds. The lights and warnings aren't consistently on. It's all flicker.

Yeah, tried it. It touches 14.1 seems the regulator is fine. I'm just hoping it's not the computer or something major. I was thinking speed sensor or something knocking about, but I pulled over when it first happened and was still getting the flickering battery light. It might be a hard thing to...

Oh, forgot to add. I managed to have the voltage reading up when it happened, it was at 13.8/13.9 with air con on. Relatively stable at 14 with air con off.

I figured the car would have stalled or spluttered if that was the case. But I just cleaned the contacts and the issue is still there. I didn't catch what other lights came up, but the battery light did flicker a few times on the 7 minute drive home. I think I may just take it to be diagnosed...

Cheers for the tip. I'll sand and reseat all the earths and look some other stuff over. Hopefully I can get it to happen while I have the voltage reading up to see if the alternator isn't slowly coking out. Just seems weird that it looks to be a power supply issue but the car drives normally...

I'll be starting to narrow it down this arvo. Starting with cleaning earths. Figured I'd ask for any pointers. Seems it can be anything from earth, alternator, abs, speed sensor, one of the seat cables etc.

Hi, had a search of the forums and got some ideas of where to start looking. But figured I'd see if there where any other tips specific to my issue. Driving the other day I had the battery light on the dash flicker on for a few seconds, I had srs light and traction control off come up. Went...

Hi guys. Had a quick search and had some tips come up that I can check, but nothing specific to my problem so figured I'd ask. So I was trying to fix my rear right tail light as the brake and reverse lights weren't working. The tail light and indicator does work. Checked the bulbs and they were...