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Got to move the torana to get to the Kingswood.

I would do your transmission pump seal too, while you're transmission is out.

It's called a hump hose. You need to measure the inside diameter of both ends. Google hump hose and you should be able to find what you need.

Spring into the oil pump housing first and then the valve.

Do you have the relief valve and spring installed the correct way around?

Is it possible that the signal from the distributor to the ignition module is too weak due to the extended wiring. Possible voltage drop due to the length of the wire? Or possibly a damaged ignition module.

I vote photo of the year.

You need this.

I use a cardboard template to check for clearance. Make the template between the engine and the wheel arch/chassis rail. Like an Engine plate. Then you can hold it up to your spare engine to check for clearance while making the manifold.

Could possibly be that there is no taper for the retaining ring to compress back into the spline area when removing the axles.

A coke bottle cut into a funnel with electrical tape on the thread to seal it in the top of the radiator works.

Check the nuts on the 2 brackets that go from the firewall to the chassis rail.

Looks like one of the Spacer's for the plastic engine cover.

This stuff works well. The longer you let is soak the better it works.

I experimented with some old spare ones I had. I sprayed them with that removable rubber type paint that you can get for your wheels. It looked not too bad. But it did show the imperfections under the paint. So would still need to fill it with something before painting.

Nope, it's moulded to the glass.

It's part of the quarter glass. You have to replace the quarter glass.

I think the shock mounts on the diff housing are different between a sedan and wagon.

A common issue is the dfi module under the ignition coils. It usually fails due to worn spark plugs. The large gap in the worn spark plugs creates extra load on the ignition system.

https://www.maceengineering.com.au/SUPERCHARGER-COUPLER Coupler inside the snout of the sc is probably worn or failed.

I would remove one injector plug at a time while the engine is running. If the engine does not idle differently when the plug is removed you have a problem with that particular cylinder. Then further investigation of that cylinder is needed. Eg: spark, fuel etc.

Try removing the supercharger belt, start the engine and see if the noise goes away.

Looks like a mustang with an rx7 nose cone.

Best bet is to try find a good used one. I have tried after market and they don't seal above the tail lights where the tight turns are.

I'm guessing you would have to get a mod plate to make it legal. Probably better off talking to someone who does mod plates to find out what is required before doing anything.

Depending on your model. Mine is a base model series 2 vt. It doesn't have seat air bags. I have put in ss seats with air bags, but the seat air bags are not connected.

https://speedywheels.com.au/product/hammer-satin-black/ Another option.

Replace intake manifold gaskets before doing the coolant. Check engine mounts as it is common for them to sag. Check Heater tap for leaks next to the exhaust manifold.

Check connection at the dfi plug. Are you using the same dfi and coils, or are you using the ones from the spare motor?

My vote would be something with a Barra. Has more cubes. Better balanced engine than a V6. Twin cams. Lighter valve train, more revs. Easy to tune. Large range of performance parts. Plus sounds better than Mang Mang. Also to take another ford off the road.

Suggest running a fan shroud to make the fans more effective.

All I can say is stay the f away from Sydney tools. I have had positive dealings with tools.com so far.

By subframe I'm assuming you are talking about the k frame. Which has nothing to do with the tyre rubbing on the strut. The tyre rubbing issue is strut/hub/wheel related. The K frame could still be damaged. But it has nothing to do with the tyre rubbing issue.

It could just be that the two big lower strut bolts have moved as the are slightly slotted so you can adjust the camber. As you can see in your photo there is an adjustment screw for the camber. Or the strut is bent. Suggest parking on flat concrete and use a square or something beside the wheel...

I try to keep it in the shade. Just trying to prolong as long as possible.

Is there a specific product to help prevent deteriorating plastic's?

That suggest that it's not the rotors. I would check tie rod ends, rack ends, rack mounts, worn bushes in the rack, lower control arm bushes and ball joints. Probably better off taking it in for a suspension check at a suspension place.