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ITEM: VR Commodore PRICE: $1k negotiable LOCATION: Brisbane Northside YEAR: 1995 SERIES: 2 BADGE: Executive ENGINE: V6 TRANSMISSION: Auto rebuilt about 20,000km ago. EVERYTHING was replaced except the case and electrics. cooler fitted at the same time COLOUR: White...

4HDD8? i think you're reading it wrong. 4HDD is '93/'94 v6 floor shift box. there is no 4hdd8. all ACDelco transmissions have a 1 numeric/3 alpha code. the way to work it out is this. the number represents the year it was built, in this case 1994 H represents holden, as the box is used by many...

truck driver for a PVC/PP/PE manufacturer and galvanized steel pipe/fitting supplier

i lost the rev calculator (estimator) when my comp HDD died, but that sounds like a 3.7 gearset from memory

nope. testing was introduced somewhere after the 70's. neither of my parents had a test, they just handed some cash to the cops and got their licenses. that said, they're both good drivers EDIT: oh and for the point at hand, i do agree with mandatory testing, but plates will just be ignored. as...

may possibly be interested in engine if you'll sell separate for a decent price what exactly was done in reco??

absolutely yes do both sides at same time

what do i hate the most? the metal on metal click in the front suspension i can't locate to fix. either that or the fact that every time i fix an exhaust leak another one pops up. methinks these headers are fkd

ummm yeah that's pretty bad. replacing that seal is a 5 minute job, might even consider replacing that asap even if you don't do the pump internal seals

yep it's inside the pump housing. the front shaft seal. you'll know it when you see it, but being that they rarely die i wouldn't worry. i didn't do mine when i did my pump 3 years ago and it hasn't been an issue EDIT: this might help dude, it's a printout of the pump in exploded view i got...

you could have mine cheap but i think they got wrecked in the cyclone a few weeks back. just use some 3mm mdf or ply. make a template on cardboard or whatever then cut up the wood to suit. only thing i can think which would trip you up is the clips, they're kinda like massive staples

yep it is common. the pump shaft seal dying is rare though, and from what i've heard requires use of a press to remove/replace. "rebuilds" are really just replacing a few o-rings, dead easy if you just take your time and pay attention. hardest part of the whole operation is removing/refitting...

i had mine replaced for rwc about 2 years back cost me 250 fitted, doubt they'd be too much more than that niw

I'd be interested to know how much these people were paid to say cut the limit, adn if they weren't paid, how long they've lived ina retirement village

383 is same principle as a 355, but going further with stroke/bore to get capacity. i've heard with 383 you have to strengthen the block in key areas (by use of grout) as you have to bore it within an inch of its life to the OP, a 5.7 stroker IS a 355, or close enough. the 3 capacities 304, 355...

i did this in mine too, was thinking the worst (rebuild time) but after some research on forums i worked out that the pressure switch disagrees with water. though n my case it didn't come good again and i bought a new switch

I'm having a similar issue on my vr at teh moment, struts, bearings, supports and links/link bushes are brand new (about 300km old) they were all replaced to try to stop this clunk but didn't work. tie rod ends about 1000-1500km ago, that HELPED but didn't eliminate the clunk. i'm thinking wheel...

ok i take my comment back. didn't know they were like that (my bars are the same front and rear). all i can suggest is getting in there with something to cut the tab off

look, whether you like my comment or not, the front and rear bar channels are identical in depth and width. given my exec had only a black 'sticker' instead of that chrome stripe mine was somewhat easier to remove, but my answer is still accurate. jam a screwdriver in just as he did with the...

same as the rear

yep. being on the road all the time for work i see all manor of idiots, i can't help but laugh like a lunatic

tried ebay? it's really hit n miss on there i know, but i've found a few sellers selling genuine replacement parts

my s2 vr exec has the hot beep, found that a few times sadly

oh you know he got straight on the lancer forums saying he ate you.....

I'll chuck mine in here too. it's a bitsa really, and incomplete anyway it used to be an acer aspire sa90 but i've replaced some stuff it now has gigabyte g31-es2l m/b - onboard video/sound - i'm not a gamer so it's fine for me pentium e6300 dual core processor 2x1gb kingston hyperX ddr2 DVD...

i thought the one for the gauge was on the right when you're looking toward the back of the car?

actually the one time i've dealt with those guys they were great, sat there explaining what i was doing and what parts i needed (boot lid carpet clips from calais/stato, and plastic rear bar screws) and i sat there looking through the computer with him talking **** about cars. almost fainted...

what about that turtle wax with the 'lipstick like' thing attached, for deep scratches?

i used proper weatherseal adhesive, forget what brand it was but i got it from supershit. great stuff but very messy

my yardie at work, nice enough guy... never bothered to get his license til late last year, went out and got a car on finance. i was talking to him about it giving him the usual 'go over it with a fine tooth comb' speech, telling him key areas to look at (he wanted a commodore) anyway naturally...

nope, shitty cartographers. first time it couldn't distinguish between an overpass and an intersection (wanted me to jump off a bridge in a 7 tonne truck) second time it told me to turn left instead of right (the place i wanted was 400m to the right of the intersection), then instead of telling...

did you change the timing case on the vn engine? vr onward have a cam angle sensor (auto only) vn-vp didn't

SC mag did a massive write-up when scott rebuilt the engine in v6 vengeance, was reprinted in the v6power special edition too. other than that i can only suggest scabbing through US based buick forums

when i did my brakes a few months back the rears were rusted on well too, no amount of percussive maintenance would convince them to come off. grabbed a 10inch 3 jaw gear puller and had them off in about 2 minutes

nah that's not female arrogance. i've used GPS twice in my life and both times it tried to send me MILES in the wrong direction. i'm on the road near all day 5 days a week, i totally agree go oldschool

checking everything visually doesn't mean it's ok. there are some things you can do to test each component of the circuit, testing for continuity etc, 'backyard mechanics' such as just touching the horn terminals together behind the steering wheel etc i've been caught out by visual checks more...

yep petrol, tyres, insurance, servicing, everything

back when i was in supermarkets, the 'company car' was a fleet style arrangement, paid from that $100k/pa (or whatever it was) package, and super/tax etc also came out of that. having said this, i was coles/bi-lo, things may be different

clem7 will be $13 for trucks..... they gotta make back the ridiculous money they spent on playing in the sandpit..... but everyone's SOOOOO happy campbell got the hole open 9 months early this $5 toll is laughable. i can see people avoiding the tunnel when the tolls start, i for one wouldn't be...

if it's a non-airbag wheel the front just pulls off, but the horn button is sealed inside. i'd go through everything else, wires, relay, horn module, see if it's a simple fix or not