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I had my VY SS parked up for nearly nine months and was on a small 3.8 amp CTEK. No dramas at all. The cure for flat spots was to take it for a good spirited run to get the heat in the tyres.

Either side of the firewall will have a rubber grommet you can poke the wires through. There will be a couple of spots you can see where the insulation has cut outs to gain access.

Correct mate

Bolts with large washers will work better and makes it stable. I eventually went with an ECB nudge bar to mount the lightbar on.

Try one of these mate https://www.stedi.com.au/number-plate-light-mounting-bracket.html Or search for "Universal car number plate light mounting bracket"

I get a good laugh at those who think a little bit of plastic covering the top of an engine is a concern for heat soak ;)

Totally agree mate. Shits me to tears, see it all too often :(

I would give you the high beam treatment too if I seen this coming at me. Same as knobheads that think jamming HID / LED into normal reflector headlights is cool but that is another subject. As Trevor loves holden. said, connect up the signal wire via the high beam circuit (see my original...

Have you checked the globe? Failing that, check the wiring is not shorted

Hop under the car and look at the tag that should be hanging off the fill plug. It will have LSD stamped into it if it is LSD or check the sticker on the side (if not worn) as per IPCOlsenVZ's post.

Failing that, buy a relay from your local auto parts supplier and go from there. The negatives are not used as an earth as such and is why the light is triggered the way it is for you at the moment. If you have a little bit of an idea on electronics, you can pop the cover of the relay off see...

Check the pinouts on your relay (packet should have come with at least a description) as your setup has wires around the wrong allowing constant power to the bar

You are looking at ~$150 mark for a new CAT / PAC Don't be a tight arse, you just spend how much on a new stezza and time / price fitting it??? ;)

Follow the diagram as posted. Positive wired to pin 30 of the relay Pin 86 to the GREEN / BROWN side of the headlight plug Pin 85 to the WHITE w BLACK TRACE / BLACK w WHITE trace I currently have a Baja Design light bar wired up as per diagram.

Fine to drain To fill, how about jacking the vehicle up from the rear? Will make the vehicle level to fill it up. Give that a go.

Yeah old thread an all but has some good info in it and I can't find anything else. Hoping someone can help. I have a VY SS Ute and have KHFL-47HD springs in the front. Ride height with 18's is 345mm from centre of hub to guard and 585mm from base of rim to guard. This setup is about 3-4 years...

Morning mate, Never an old thread, just good info for all to read. If you are wiring up foglights, follow the link below as it may be of benefit. Credit to sxc_sound https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/how-vt-vy-s1-foglight-install.165636 You should have the loom already in place.

Anthracite is the colour. I found a skin for around the $400 mark but have not purchased yet. Just wondering how easy they are to put on? The attached pic looks like it could be an easy job. Cheers for the links, a few more goodies to look at!

I thought I would update this thread instead of starting a new one. I have had no joy with VE seats being fitted to my VY and am now needing my seat repaired on the R/H side. I found a genuine leather skin to put on BUT are these hard to put on? What do I need to install it?

Good news TazzI. If possible, can you send me a PM when done?

All I want to do is change my damn fuel level gauge so it reads correct.

But I would know they are there! I ended up getting the clips from Holden. Still trying to find a decent price set of seats.... You think being in Vic there would be lots and at a decent price! Not so.

Have I missed something? Did you get your software up??

I am not sure if the VT is 'normal' or if it is positive switching like the VY and onward. If the light bar is coming back on, it sounds like you have the wiring back to front for the switching relay.

I have heard of check engine lights coming on due to too much flow through the exhaust. I think is messes with the O2 sensor readings? As for extra kW, yes but bugger all.

Mineral oil is perfectly fine.

Looking good TazzI

I have a VY SS series 2 manual Ute and would love to put one of these dashes in

Yes, all you need to do is get someone to put it in the settings / tune for you (EFI Live / VCM etc)

Double check all wiring. Sounds like you have a short somewhere

These threads should point you in the right direction ~ Google and forum searches work well ;) https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/vy-how-change-lights-instrument-cluster.173299 https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/vy-vz-dash-led-conversion.175879 Thread VY-How to change the...

This may help ya mate Let me google that for you

How do I get access to the TIS????

Holden made them that way because you don't need to touch them as much as Fords as their dizzy's are at the front ;)

Hi George, What I didn't know was that it was badged as an SS. I also like the injected 5lt. Good motor with some mods. I shouldn't have sold mine (VS)

Stand corrected on that one. The VT was the only model that had that option right?

You are correct. For info. Thats what this forum is about :)

Police mode only allows digital display of speed

I kept my ute on the ground. This made it easy for all the oil to drain out. Jack up one side (with stand of course) and slide under. A mate had some disgusting oil come out of his diff and wondered why it made funny noises. New diff for him at some stage soon!

Lock sequence and courtesy lighting is set via holding MODE button then switch ignition on....