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There is also a flasher relay in the BCM for hazard and door lock functions.

The factory one https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1QdeIXSJaxcV47RspJg9pCCthJ4z1A-0v

Faulty starter motor.

The lower grill. Took me about 40 seconds to find https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231990687455?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=m8D3GxkiS_e&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=VVTSobbORpi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY You’ll have to put up with holes where the foglights go. All SS and SV6...

Correct. The things you seek do not exist.

You’ve tried unplugging the replacement module to repeat the test as you did the first time?

The day after you buy a Tesla

I’d suggest the second module is faulty. Let’s say it was not faulty before, there must be something in the harness causing to much load or something causing too much resistance and damaging the ABS module. That is what needs to be checked out.

The flasher relay replaced?

The stuff I was thinking of was black. I had a search and turns out it is PVC coated on the outside but aluminium inside. More robust but might not suit what you want. I thought it was entirely pvc with wire reinforcement. As for finding it at Hammerbarn, you can get a free app now. Get the...

Magic wand is the only way to fix it without taking anything apart. A good chance the loom somewhere near the boot between the body and the lid is chaffed. It could also be just behind where the lock etc is. Remove the boot card/panel to find out more.

Mmmm. Flavours.

I’m not disagreeing with anyone. I’m adding that I have bought products from them. Not this product. The products I have bought have been good. Did what I wanted. Did what was reasonably expected. This is why I’m saying not everything sold by the business is bad. It’s not. This product is bad...

I think you are missing what I’m saying.

How good is that. Mopping up the plate with some fresh bread. It’s one of life’s pleasures.

Does anyone know why that is? Left overs are always better a day later. Curry is better. Stew is better. Chinese is better. It’s all better.

In their products is a PVC based ducting that is wire reinforced.

That’s my point. What is representative of his business is not really him intentionally selling a poor fitting product, but the way he handles complaints and reaches resolutions. No one in their right mind would intentionally buy a poorly fitting product. The expectation would be the product...

The VE shifter has been used by @CWG and one of the very early conversions on a VZ SS Crewman used a VF shifter. The VF shifter really looks the goods in place of the VZ one. The link is in one of the previous posts.

Well. If the product is not up to what it should be, then yeah it’s all valid. My point is, this one product should not be a representation of all the products Mr Bodykits sells as a whole. Where MrBodykits will show us the quality of the business is in how he/they handle a poorly fitting...

What about using a VF shifter?

The link: https://www.ebay.com.au/str/partnerpacific?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=rywlJAudQsO&sssrc=3418065&ssuid=VVTSobbORpi&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Fast delivery.

EBay have good ducting. But ll find a link in a bit.

Phew. One of the family favs is a good basic stew. We don’t eat them enough.

To be fair, I’ve bought products from MrBody kits and have been really happy with quality and price. Fitting was spot on. Well packaged too.

Bloody hell that gave me a shock for a second. All this talk about IBS and Gluten and Celiac and then that pic. Like, don’t get me wrong. It was for just a second. Then I’m like that looks pretty good. But then I’m like, “I thought at a glance it was, then I want to eat it! OMG. What have I...

Watch some of his videos on the Youtubes. He is finding some really cool features buried in the software and a mix and match of VE and VZ modules. As an example:

They can be programmed in to do it. In fact you can make it show just about anything. Envyous Customs can do it. On VZ it can be done using this: It might work on VZ?

Anything series 2 won’t fit. All others swap over. https://www.autoinstruct.com.au/manufacturer/holden/ve-commodore/removing-front-bumper/

I think he is saying you can add it in and use the A/S button from an SV6 to do that.

Testing the actuator. Go to 5mins Test cam sensors

No the sensor is not on the end of the actuator. The cam sensors are a separate thing. The actuator you have controls oil pressure into the variable cam timing. The cam sensors are almost next to them. LE0 have two actuators and two cam sensors. LY7 will have four cam actuators and four cam...

No. No it would not look cool. Your insurance company will also think it does not look cool if they inspect the vehicle after an accident. The police will also think it does not look cool as they slap the yellow sticker on the windscreen. The person who gets hit because they did not see...

The scan tool may say those things, however always verify at the injector or relative sensor. The VATS might be off but have you checked each module is VIN matched regardless? There is no place for speculated guesses. Get some data to prove yes or no as you move through. If the engine was...

You can’t “delete” the indicators because they are kind of legally important. Like, they let other drivers know your intentions. Of course you might previously owned a Camry, so would be used to not using the indicators, perhaps unaware the stalk on the steering column is used for something.

How it is done without guessing.

The photo is of the cam actuator, not the cam sensor. I’d imagine your timing chain is buggered and in need of love. You can test the actuators. The timing can be verified with an oscilloscope which then gives a positive diagnosis, not a guess. Until the timing wave form data is viewed...

? Matching numbers refers to original engine number and original drive line to the records of the vehicle VIN when it left the factory. Much of that info has been deleted from Holden records. We can’t tell you what the matching numbers are supposed to be. I don’t believe anyone can. I know...