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Are you changing all of them? I suggest taking it into a suspension shop as i'm pretty sure all the bushes in the front end are 'pressed' in. So if you want to do it yourself you will need to rig up a mechanism (such as G clamp and apropriate odds and ends) to press them out and in or get...

Chrome Yuk! no thanks not into pimping styles prefer some nice pollished alloys really less 'out there in your face' style

That's exactly right, 17's seem to be the standard at the moment, and mass producing somthing becomes cheaper, therefore less expensive for us to buy. Well the wheels i wanted have been sold. this thread can now be closed thankyou.

Oh right ok, sorry but I was trying to find someone with VX SS Rims not VZ, although those tims look nice they are not my cup of tea and not what i'm looking for.. thanks any way champ

so are they what, later model VX SS rims? they certainly don't look like the ones i'm thinking about buying

thanks mate.. the rims i'm looking at don't look anything like those., they look more like Bill's post up the top on the VR thanks for the pics. Don't want 18's for $$ and insurence reasons. plus the rubber cost more And i think those whee's look to big for the car.. to be honest, maybe if...

ok email them to [email protected] thanks man

Oh no sounds like there are going to be two dark green VS's with VX SS rims... lol

thanks Bill sorta what I'm after, it's a great start, I just wanna know as I'm looking at purchasing a set for my VS, however still not sure, and unfortunatly I can't put them on my car first to see what they look like.

are there any one here with VX SS 17's on a VS??? Hey people.... Has any one got a photo of a VS with VX SS 17" rims that they could post up? Would really appriciate it! Thanks guys

Mate, bushes need to be pressed in and pressed out (except Panhard, and sway bars) they're designed to have a tight fit, and are generally kinda of difficult to get out if you only have a hammer! I sugest getting a G clamp and rigging that up if you want to get them out easier.

Yeah it's a bit contradictive isn't it, although I think they are great at letting you know what the problem is for $14 - not bad! However they are pricey when they want to fix the problem and parts are a bit $$$ and I don't wouldn't be happy paying there prices.

it's Panhard - don't pronounce the H either. I have done my complete back end (live rear axle) now most of it I did my self with the following cost: Panhard Rod Nolathane bush kit $20 Sway Bar Nolathane Bush kit ends plus 'D' bushes $20 Upper control arms came in a kit, you exchange your old...

"Baaaaaaaaaaaaauuuummmp" Bump :)

Ha ha... yeah what was worse is I washed the car before hand and managed to get a little bit of water spilt on myself and with a breeze that was pretty cold.

Cheers Man, I live on a small island south of Australia called Tassie :) not much market down here, and I realise the price is very optimistic but it's a damn good car with low K's and runs so well!

Hey All, Just doing this to get an idea. I'm looking at selling my VS Commodore however not yet but if any one is interested then your more than welcome to place an offer! Details are as follows: - 1996 VS Series II ecotech 3.8lt Auto Exec Sedan, Dark Metallic green in colour...

You obviously can't handle brittish humour, or like the fact that they are pretty much 99% spot on with thier reviews. but meh, it's you opinion, I think the show bloody awesome. I mean you don't see a Range Rover sport up against a brittish tank all that often do you? :bow: :bow: :bow...

Then do the sway bars... and learn from the experience :thumbsup:

Nice, looks good! also looks like you have the best of both worlds there, looks like that scoop also has an opening at the back letting air pass straight through...

Slow VR has it the nail on the head if you really wanna actually extract the heat from your engine a flute is the way to go. A scoop is can be used as a CAI in some applications. However it is possible that a scoop can be used for cooling, for instance a WRX uses a scoop to pass air through...

I'm shocking, I waste mine so much it's ridiculas, I could go through a tank a week, I just love spraying water on my windows....:whistling

There ya go, it's easy to do so get into it :)

Yeah I agree it could be somthing else, however Danny said: ..."Problem I am having is that when I take off I get vibration through steering wheel when I take off..." And that was my problem, hard acceleration and take offs made my car drivline virbrate a little. questions: does it stop at...

Well I got some quotes from various retail stores, check it. *note, I only need the two ENGINE mounts, beware because these guys treat the Tansmision mount as an engine mount, and may try to sell it to you :yeah: Super Cheap $56 each Autobarn $57 each Repco $57 Sparco $69 Motors $105...

Do a search on this forum for "boot leak" you'll most probably find that your leak and smell will be around the back of the car. It's common for most commodores to have a leak into the boot, normally caused by the rear 1/4 windows or tail lights.

Sounds like the problem then, jack her up and place on chassis stands then inspect bearing to see how much 'play' there is. not sure on the price of the replacments, however I'm pretty sure there up there with engine mounts for price and ease of replacement.

Thanks Hako, looks like I overlooked a few things there, I think I'll give those options a go and see if I can do it myself.

Sounds like your problem can be one or more of three things: Engine Mounts Tansmission Mount Split tailshaft center bearing/bushes I recently found that my vibration from hard acceleration is being caused by my engine mounts. When the engine wants to accelerate it also would rather twist...

I go through a set of tyres every 40 - 60 thousand K's, depending on the compound, I'm not the kind of person to waste rubber as I think burnouts are a pointless activity any car can do a burnout, it doesn't prove anything, and I enjoy driving.

Cheers mate looks like I'll have to get it done proffessionally, i thought about heating the arm and freezing the bush. I looked in the How To here and searched the forums with no luck (unless I miss somthing, if so please post link). Google was no good either.

Thanks mate but I wanna know if I can keep my existing control arm but just replace the bushes. I know the procedure how to take it all apart just need to know if I can replace the bushes without a press. Cheers for your response though.

G'day all, Did a search and couldn't really find a whole lot in relation to my question. I recently took my car in for a 28 point check to find out what was causing my VS to have loose-ish back end. I was told that the following needs to be replaced at the rear. Note I have a Live rear axle...

So your saying a non ABS hub will be around the mid $300 mark. that sounds more like it, I'm glad I don't have ABS!

Are you serious $400 for one wheel bearing??? I don't/can't believe that... If I were to buy a wheel bearing and put it in myself it would cost $400 for one side.. :ranting:

Well I believe it's one of two things then, a) your rubber is extremely good, and just won't break tracktion b) your commodore just really doens't have the go it should... maybe it's broken ;)

could you let me know how you go as i'll be doing this very soon to my front rotors. What were the DBA rotors you bought? Cheers

Does your clutch pedal shudder? Does the shudder/vibration come from the back? could be: Engine mounts, Gearbox mounts / cross member rubbers split tail shaft centre bearing (do manuals have the split tail shaft?) Damaged Pressure plate/ worn plate - results usually in pedal shudder, or...

Again, it's most likely not the injectors, replace the cheap things first. you say that you have to wait a while before it runs properly right? well if it was the injectors then it wouldn't get better. I don't think the injectors 'work better' once warmed up, i'm pretty sure they work well or...

I'm not a real believer of injector cleaner, if you think the injectors are the issue then get them ultrasonically cleaned. Replace all of the cheap 'more likely the cause' stuff first.