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was anything else replaced along with the aircon or just the compressor? sounds like it just had a leak in the aircon system and found the next weakest link after they replaced the compressor. normally when u replace anything its best to replace all o rings, tx valve and drier which they should...

i've ran the lukey panel for a fair few years now and cant complain, their washable, that was around $60 then. looks like they gone up. http://www.v6performance.com.au/Lukey-Performance-Air-Filter-p/lukey%20filter.htm

was the alternator making that noise drawing amps? i have heard this usually flattens batteries when u hear this, mayb keep doing a draw test through each fuse, may or may not point u in a direction but u could have a couple things drawing at the same time. From memory 50ma is normal anything...

Thats how mine are set up. any chance the 3.5" pulleys shaft is bent towards the air compressor or downwards even? like its been dropped? mayb take those 3.5' pulleys off and double check its straight coz it looks like these are whats too close?

cheers mate actually im not doing the conversion basically was lookin to put another PCM, BCM and fob key into a vt with out abs but the only set i have found that matches comes from a car that has abs but since u say the brains is all in the abs module i guess u've answered my question :)...

Got a bit of a weird question, if all the ABS gear was added to a non ABS VT, does anyone know if the tech 2 is needed to change anything in the BCM? or PCM? or is it not that simple by enable and disabling an ABS feature in that way and u will need a whole new module set that already has ABS in it?

Do i recall u tried to do LED conversion? might be mistaken and u just asked the questions ect..... but if so did u have the cluster apart? Also is ur VT a low spec VT or higher end model?

yeah its not a hard job just time consuming, took me 6 hours to do mine just make sure ur replacement heater core is a brass one or u will be doing it again soon lol. if u get a mechanic to do the job well ur looking at say $80-$100 per hour, so 6-8 hour job plus parts ($110 for heater core +...

why would u change it back? just log it in your service book with what u have done so its all legit regardless if u keep it or sell.

when u ran ur RCAs or power feeds u didnt take the seats out did u? perhaps u just knocked the pre-tensioner plug if u ran those RCA's down the centre even?

not really thats a stock item. only difference really was the dial facia surrounds were thicker and weren't just a flat surround on the later models so they were a little bit fancier and the dial facias came in a couple other colours, Red, Blue, Green and yellow.

water will be fine to use while ur trouble shooting the temp issues and flushing out the block and the rest of the system. no point buying coolant then find its still overheating and then have to dump all that fresh coolant again. using water long term isn't recommended but using water wont make...

yeah pics never look the same in photos hence the bright comment LOL which they rnt in person. looks better than i thought in daylight tho.

how are they reversed, are u putting in alternative LCDs? what does it look like during the day being blue? do the digits seem to fade or get hard to see in the sun light?

are ur digital digits coloured and not black?

assuming its an auto being calais gear? mayb check the inhabitor switch, if u didnt remove the glue from the plug and socket and didnt heat it up both when pushing the plug back in it may not be all the way in? long shot and hopeful guess lol

just take one of ur speakers in and take one of the speakers u want out of the box, supercheap will let u do it if they want the sale so shouldn't be an issue. Also the 200watt u saw isnt the power rating u want to look out for its the RMS power rating u need to try match up to the head unit...

the fronts will have tweeters in the dash pad too

isnt the purpose of the drier to catch anything that gets in the system? so really that will be the only thing that will block up, its a filter after all.

How many O rings did he replace in the system? i think from memory theres 10 all up. these should have been coated with AC oil before fitting not spit lol he would only be introducing moisture into the system one would think which would defeat the purpose of vacuuming the system in the 1st...

Yeah $300 could be better spent elsewhere since u already got a CAI thats doing a decent job as it is on a stock 5L

as above said just make sure all the old yellow padding and glue comes off, if u dont get it all the new contact adhesive that gets applied will just let go sooner rather than later down the track when the old stuff becomes more and more brittle. The glue itself only has a 10 year life span...

not really worth the efforts, for that price, money would be better spent on just a simple chip tune and a corvette servo to feel any sorter gains from a 5L.

this does sound like a spin really but if it was anything it would be less as when ur tyres get hotter it creates more PSI so would make sense then. But unless ur driving non stop in 40+ degree days and 30+ nights i dont see the point? If u were a truck driver it would make more sense to them.

did it come with a warranty? i found strangely enough some local wreckers are selling used compressors for $50 with a 90 day warranty. At least it will get you through the summer just on the warranty alone LOL. Also was told by the aircon guy the pump should run between 25-30 PSI, if its in this...

got the aircon system back up and running lol

thats still a wedge type LED the only difference in what u would have had in before is the brightness and its veiwing angle thats pretty much it but its still gives the same results but if ur happy its all that matters :) To get those green bits a simple sharp chistle will scrap it off nicely...

does look a bit better man good stuff, can still see the hot spots but u will never get away from that with just using wedge type LEDs, unfortunately it is what it is. U missed some green on the revs between 5 and 7, should look heaps better once they have been scraped away :)

yep thats pretty much all u gotta do, dont use a paint thinner tho just some IPA works fine after u got the bulk of it off that way u wont eat into the plastic and ruin ur needles. u will need to put a colour backing on the back of the needle (white), for one u'll notice with clear needles u...

Look into ASR's conversions i do those. with out knowing ur set up and lay out im assuming uve just taken out the original globes and slotted in some wedge LEDs? if so yeah u wont get a great effect on the needles but saying that the orange will be dulling down the blue a lot. if u change to a...

u may have no leaks but if u got a bad or lazy pump in the compressor itself (which is very common in these) it can do this. best way to find out is to see what PSI the compressor is running at while on and charged? compressor should be between 25-30 to be a good working pump, any higher and its...

easiest way to tell which is which, find out the colour of the back housing on ur cluster? if its white u have a VT cluster, if its black u have a VX cluster. some later model VTs and the higher end models did get some VX clusters put in VT's. they are fairly simple to change the colour of ur...

yeah the hot water tap has nothing to do with the aircon? sure ur not talking bout the heater core? but again nothing to do with aircon lol?

yep or motor out lol but its easier to take the gear box out. if u can hear it trickle from the front mayb it is timing cover? hopefully its not cracked

there is an oil feed passage on the rear crankshaft plate that is also next to where coolant is blocked off by the plate, mayb check that plates gasket. i had to replace mine just recently except i had coolant leaking externally from this seal not internally. it would be a bit of a bugger if its...

what temps are u getting from the digital read out? (hold up and mode button, then turn ignition on). Are they all messed up and low when the needles back at the cold line?

when u do the oil change next stick ur finger in the sump hole afters its drained and try touch the bottom and see if u can feel any sludge build up on the bottom? These sumps are a **** design and u always get left with almost 10mm of oil left on the bottom every change unless u jack up the car...

where exactly? above the cluster do u mean?

Since ur windows are not fogging up then uve just ruled out the heater core leaking into the HVAC box. this is pointing to LIM gaskets for sure. If ur A/C is taking longer to cool ur probably running out of gas or may have a slow leak in the A/C system somewhere, totally different issue.

u dont have a memcal in the vx ECU so u will probably need to get the tech 2 on it to enable it.