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Yes.

I've got everything except the sports armour but I didn't know of it's existence. The rest is just good insurance and don't detract from the looks of the car either.

Haven't been here forever but I'v got a manual SSV ute on the way with mats, mudflaps, bonnet and headlight protectors for $46k driveaway.

Where's you get yours from and do you have any other mods to go with it?

I can't read.

Knock sensor, the turbo engines had them.

Coolant temp sensors for the ECM play up. This sends a signal to the computer to indicate temp, when the temp reaches a certain point (98 degrees i think) the computer then turns the fan on. What tends to happen is the sensor sends a lower than correct reading then the ECM doesn't think the fan...

Look for a blown stop/tail/number plate bulb.

You can do it with the engine in but you'll either need to lift the engine slightly or drop the cross member (not that easy without a hoist etc) to get enough clearance. Hell of a lot easier to do if you take it right out but then there is more work there straight up. BTW the sumps run a rubber...

I wouldn't recommend or do this, the bit about using the handbrake I mean.

They won't need to relocate the fuel (gas) tank as was the case with the Monaro, it is located forward of the rear axle.

This just about it, if you can do non ABS you can do ABS and $700 is out there price wise.

I haven't purchased a set of rotors in years to be honest. DBA are going to be a better quality disc compared to imported stuff but you going to pay extra. Unless you drive hard slotted and cross drilled units aren't needed, about the best I can say to you.

Allen keys, spanners, a wheel brace, a jack and possibly a soft faced hammer for getting rusty rotors off is about all you'll need.

Isn't cruise control standard across the range, as is ESP?

The studs on the VE are made thicker in order to cope with the extra weight that they carry. Full stop.

What a knob!

I enjoyed most of my time as an apprentice and enjoyed most of my time in the trade but in the end was driven out by vexacious and stupid complaints and stupid customers who thought they knew it was your fault that their car played up because you were the last one to touch it. If they know so...

If there weren't so many dodgy customers around there might be more mechanics around. Plenty have left the industry after putting up with this sort of attitude and crap pay.

Correction, triple it.

expert being the appropriate word as opposed to magician.

Mechanics make crap money for the rubbish they have to listen to from the public, another reason I left the industry. Once had a customer complain that her glovebox wouldn't open after doing an oil change on her car. Must have been our fault, we last touched it.

I agree with you 1000%, R & R a brake caliper for instance and don't bleed the system properly, go up someones ar#e and there is no retribution. One of hundreds of things that gave me the sh*ts when I used to be a practising mechanic.

I you are a mechanic you should know the answer to that question.

M5 = $230,000. Grange around $100,000. I would be livid if I paid that much more for a car and it didn't have more bells and whistles and it wasn't better. Also, not that people looking in that price bracket would car too much, look at the potential for depreciation. If a 2000 model M5 is now...

Igniter will be your problem most likely if you have no spark. Silver thing on the left hand guard from memory.

Go to the dealer that is selling them for $120 then and don't go aftermarket.

A seatbelt is something that may one day save your life. Whether they are $100 or $200 what value do you place on your life? Just go and spend the money and know that the job is done properly.

You did say that you took the pump out and everything was there but was the return line connected on the tank side of the pump?

Let us all know how you get on but I'm putting $100 on a radiator fixing it.

If it cools down when you slow down it's bound to be a radiator and the fact you had a problem with your trans cooler lends support to that. YOu may just need to remove it, take it to a radiator shop and have it checked, flushed and flow tested (and I mean by a radiator shop, with the tanks...

That's not all. Wingeing customers don't help on iota, nor does the **** payslip that they recieve at the end of the week help (cleaners and kitchen hands can earn more money). Two reasons I am no longer a practising motor mechanic.

Not real hard. 1. remove wiper arms and blades. 2. remove plastic cover over motor. 3. there is the motor, check to see if it is loose first. Common problem and it will seem as though the wipers aren't working.

You could buy 4 spare sensors with $300 dollars.

One bottle of injector cleaner won't make ANY differece whatsoever. This stuff needs to be used on a regular basis to have an effect, workshops wouldn't buy an injector cleaning station worth $8-10k if a $12 bottle of chemicals will do the trick. To your problem, I would say there is a good...

Would take an hour with a broken arm.

Very good analogy.

Sorry but I just had to say it but you must have rocks in your head purchasing a second hand Commodore fuel pump.

Hop in the boot with a torch, pull the lid down and see why the switch isn't doing it's job.

That is about the extent of it.