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I had the exact same problem with my VS V8. He would have replaced the idle diaphragm in the mixer. That was the problem with mine. My guy even showed me the old diaphragm and it only had the smallest piece missing off it but it was enough for a leak and no idle. Glad yours was fixed.

All sounds pretty good. What did you use to port your heads? I wait in anticipation for further updates, good to get ideas for getting more out of my 5.0

Hi all I have a 5.0L in my VS and am wondering which temperature sender (i think there are two) that people change to fix idle problems. I can see one on the inlet manifold on the passenger side sort of in between injectors. Then I see what I think is another one in a similar location as...

Take it to an auto elec. I had a similar problem and my alternator had died. My alternator was on and off much like yours, which was caused by the diodes in the alternator dying. This then led to problems throughout my entire ignition system. If its not the alternator it may be the wire...

BUMP Anyone help me out?? I will be willing to pay for freight from interstate. Can be in any repairable condition but would like to see photos of the damage prior to committing to purchase.

Well, my mechanic had to running all day, revving it, letting it run and nothing. She just sat there and purred away. He still thinks its the hall sensor being faulty, even though they cannot get it to fault. So I told him to go ahead and change it. Fingers crossed this is it. Nothing else...

Had the car towed to my mechanic (seldom used) and low and behold, they went to move it into the workshop and the bloody thing started! He seems to think its still a faulty hall sensor. Find out more tomorrow..........

OK, so I have had major electrical issues as some would have seen from my previous posts. I replaced coil, ignition module, alternator, battery, IAC & TPS. Only drove the car to work yesterday and home again. Around 2 hours of total driving time. Driving to work this morning, had been...

Cheers for the photo. I cant mount mine there due to the LPG pump already being mounted in that spot. I did mount it on the other strut tower, just in front of the brake fluid reservoir. Not the most aesthetic spot to mount it but at least its easily accessible & will keep cool. Big thanks...

Love the chrome covers! Nice touch. You run twin thermo fans?

Yeah I get what your saying now. I was only whindin ya up too Totally agree. Something to aim for on my own beast.

Cars without coils? Must be one of those electric cars I am hearing about :idea3: Thanks for your ideas and pic guys. I cant relocate mine in that position as my LPG pump is mounted there. Perhaps I can do away with the coil, as they don't need them anyways as they have a dizzy BAHAHA...

Where have you moved your coil to, from the ridiculous factory position of between the firewall and engine? After all the electrical dramas I have had, this is one thing I will be doing. Just wondering where some of you guys have relocated yours to? Pics would be awesome!

Found a local guy who is selling them for $120. Just so happens he's an auto elec that rebuilds and sells ignition modules. He even tested my old one first to make sure I wasn't buying one unnecessarily. Mine was fubar'd! He also gives 3 month warranty, not that I will need it. Now I just...

Further to this, I just connect my multimeter to both end terminals on the ignition module (the two outside terminals). With the ignition turned on the meter reads 0 ohms, which says there is a short circuit, which there should be. So definately stuff ignition module I would say.

As mentioned in an earlier thread I have had spark issues. I have now done comprehensive tests, here are what I came up with. Distributor test: Connected a volt meter & an LED test light to the blue/white wire on the ignition module. Cranking over the engine I get a pulse through the...

Hooked up my led light to both terminals for the coil. Coil unplugged from terminals. Cranked over the car and the light stats solid. Guess that means stuffed ignition module. I have injector pulse, so I guess hall sensor is fine.

Thanks heaps for that. :clap: I have an LED test light and also a multimeter I can use to check these components. Where is the Hall sensor located? Is that inside the distributor? I really hope thats not the problem, I dont want to have to take off the inlet manifold to change dizzy's. Mind...

How do I check the pulse on the coil? Do I hook up my led light to both terminals on the coil i.e. one wire to one terminal, the other wire to the other terminal? Then turn over the engine to see if there is a spark? Which wires on the ignition module do I check?

Hmm, just to add insult to injury I have just noticed that the hose coming out of the drivers side fuel rail has totally rotted to the point of hanging on by only a few fibres. Never noticed before as I run on LPG. Looks like it runs through the inlet manifold and connects on the front top of...

Just did a test on the power going to the coil. Here' what I did: Turned the ignition into the on position, grab my test light and earthed one wire and then touched the positive wire onto both terminals on the coil. Both lit up so that suggests that the coil is getting power but not...

Yeah I was just reading about ignition modules. Dam they are expensive! Especially if thats not the issue.

OK, all plugs are connected on dizzy and on coil. No error codes. Checked the spark from coil with timing light...nothing. So I have narrowed it down to coil or wiring. Or is there anything else I should check. I have checked all fuses too. Dam you electrical gremlins!!!!

Not yet, gave up after an hour trying to work it out. I will check them tonight after work hmmm, wires on the coil definately are still connected. I will give it my best crack to check the distributor but gee.....not much room down the back of the engine! Stupid bloody Holdens and there...

Well I think the electrical gremlins are out to F me off! Got home last night, installed new battery & repaired alternator. I also installed a brand new TPS & IAC. Started the car and it was running like a dream. Shut it off and went inside for tea. Came out an hour later to take it for a...

Did you fix this problem? If you did, what was it? I'm having the same issue

Took the alternator to an Auto Elec and he says definately blown diode or two. Now I am having it fixed and I am also buying a new battery, just to make sure that everything is new. Cant wait for this to be over with and fix! Hate electrical faults!!!!!!!!!!

DESCRIPTION: Wanted to Buy ITEM: Clubsport style side skirts to suit VR/VS LOCATION: Adelaide Metro CONDITION: Can be in need of small repairs, as I have front and rear bars that i have already repaired, just need side skirts to add. DELIVERY/PICK UP INFORMATION: Will collect from...

DESCRIPTION: Wanted to Buy ITEM: I need an alternator to suit VS V8 (5.0 litre). Has to be in working order. Doesnt matter if brushes are well worn as I have a brand new voltage regulator to install. LOCATION: South Australia, Northern Suburbs CONDITION: Used DELIVERY/PICK UP...

Yeah I changed both the brown wire and the black plug. Over it, off to auto elec I go.

Changed the white & brown wires coming from the alternator. Changed the main wire from alternator to battery and into fuse box. All with no effect. Still has the battery light on. There is a small block on the back of the alternator, held on by one screw. Changed that too. Are there...

OK, so got the car back on the road. Took the alternator back and they replaced the voltage regulator. Thrown in back on the car and nothing, no difference. Still have the battery light on. When I put it back on I started the car in the morning, light was on. After 3 mins light went off and...

I just changed my harmonic balancer & rear trans mount. All smooth now.

Well I did the harmonic balancer first, started the car and it was still vibrating. Not as bad as it was but still very noticable. Then I did the rear trans mount and all vibration has now stopped, so I would say that it was probably 80% trans mount 20% harmonic balancer.

UPDATE: Finally found some of that elusive time and have just finished changing over the harmonic balancer and the rear trans mount. The result: 99% vibration free, smooth motoring. The 1% is due to the slightest, minute front end vibration due to shot tyres and need of a wheel align...

Cheers but dont go to that length. I will get the info somehow.

Sorry to rehash an old thread. I have the entire wiring assy missing from mine. Can you send me a pic (if you have one) showing the back of the dash. So I can work out where the wires attached (red/black wire). I want to put one on there so I too can see my speedo at night.

No difference between back of alternator to battery terminals, so I would say that the B+ wire is fine. Taking the alt back on the weekend and getting a replacement / refund.

The plug connecting the b wire to the wiring harness has seen better days. Burnt and small bits of plastic have come away. It's not earthing or touching anything to make it earth out. Wires are pretty stiff too. Could I run a wire direct from b on alternator to battery just to check the write...

True that hako. The voltage reg has been replaced as the screws are not original. Maybe it was replaced with one from another wreck and its a bister! LOL