Search results

Ok im much closer to figuring it out now, there was a lot of air stuck in the heater pipes, but not really the problem, its goes hot when I cycles from cold to hot, for about 1 minute then goes cold again, ive checked the tap to see if its losing vacuum but seems fine and it looks like hot is no...

wll i ran water through both ways and it flows both ways so i imagine even if it was it'd still give a little heat, The biggest thing i can't figure out is why the wee pipe next to my right leg is cold, all my other commodores its been hot all the time, even the heater pipes aren't hot maybe...

nope doesn't get hot something i cant understand i checked it today to see if the core was blocked but it isn't

Ok got the the point of removing my heater hoses to see if water pumps out, it does. Im confused now, heater tap arrow points towards the cabin, the pipe by the right leg doesn't get hot and the heater pipes in the engine bay are kinda warm but not hot. ive gone out and got a new thermostat as...

just having a quick feel around the pipe by the drivers left leg is cold, and the pipes running over the engine aren't very hot, hot but not like the rad hoses.arrow on my heater taps pointing to the cabin is this right?

Hey guys sorry its been a while, been a few months to get to a computer haha, anyway I think i've got to the bottom of it having a wee search around, pretty sure its the heat control flap at the box itself, bloody electrics

Hi Guys, Recnetly picked up a VS Senator (S1) i believe now when I 1st got it the heater worked fine, I did a coolant flush, thermostat, inlet off to do dissy and such and now my heater doesn't work, it has a new heater tap in it as the plastic broke when I was pulling it apart, it doesn't get...

agree'd pick up some power figures from an L67 on paper, and some power figures from newer cars, im sure he'll see your point then.

Spark Eroder would prob best the next best thing.

did you try an easy out?

I have had a problem before where the wiring for one speaker was grounding out intermittently but it never blew up the speaker, just muted the single speaker when it was grounding.

Garden hose/screwdriver/paper roll tube will tell you which bearing it is

Yea I know, all the dead batteries I have had here end up showing 100% on the charger and are ok to power say a 12v light, but when it comes to cranking they're just crap.

I have seen those regenerations, but aren't they like $3000, the ones i've seen that work are about that price, for that price you should buy a new battery, if its a cheaper version of the $3000 type then I would be weary if it actually works. Those regenrators reckon it can fix around 90% of...

Did you notice the guy running on his badges?

that is mean, nice work there, how come you didn't go with the VT covers for the engine?

Haha epic date fail

Hey plymouth, is that the white one?

I had a close call in my VR, it started spluttering 200m from the petrol station at a set of lights, ended up using the starter to get me across the lights, and had a small walk to the station.

Nissan Skyline 1990 for sale - TradeMe.co.nz - New Zealand Not a bad car, but have a look at the interior and check out how many gauges this thing has.

Um, noisy gears? that would give you that supercharger sounds, and by noisy gears I mean timing gears instead of a timing chain, not sure if you can get them for LS1 though. http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/lsx-development-modification/63745-ls1-gear-drives-worth-doing.html

I think you'll find those deposits are from crank case ventilation leaving oil type deposits on the inside of your manifold, best bet is trying that subaru upper engine cleaner, heard good and bad stuff but mostly good.

pics or there is no turbo in your guard.

Perfect, I was going to PM you about it, since I seen you answered the V6 one. Thank you

Yea not to mention cooking oil will run off all the parts before assembly anyway, use a decent lube/grease to protect.

Is the Oil filter for VE L98 SS engine a spin on one, or a cartridge type one like the V6's ? and where the bloody thing is? 2nd question not so important ill end up finding it.

Just take a picture of it with your camera phone, all the kids have those these days.

8mm or is that 5/16"?

Aha, but mine carries 8 people with seat belts for all (otherwise 14 people)

the are dirty tow cars, but some are clean!

Peewee Peter

Ill check out our sets we get made and see what they're like.

Pretty shitty pic as was done with phone, I like it cos it has that i'm a ute for carrying stuff look then you see they tubs and Whoa

nice car there mate, whats the petrol cap looking thing on the opposite side to the petrol cap? does it have gas?

just check your thermostat, easy point to start at, and easy as to test. My guess would be your thermostat isn't opening fully and restricting the flow hence the overheating, meaning it may be cooling a little but not enough when the engine has load on it.

a header leak will sound alot like a ticking injector not a sucking noise, as said above best way to check for leaks is spray some CRC round the intake manifold gaskets, all the joins in the intake, although if its a 5.0L it's probably just the normal 5.0L noise, they are terrible for induction...

Get yourself a fanny pack LOL, otherwise known as a bum bag

Ok so is that the plug for the MAF that he has coming out of his CAI?

Pretty sure you cannot remove the sensors out of the MAF and fit them inside the CAI, the MAF uses sensors that detect certain resistances in airflow but need to be inside the specially cased housing. it doesn't look like you have the maf connected in those pictures, MAF should have around 4-7...

do you not want to make a manifold from scratch? something with less material in it?