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Bit hard to hear but sounds like a vac leak

Misses, mister, cat, pet rock, whatever. Don't let them see you pulling thr house apart

Grab some hardcover books, kitchen shelves, bedside drawers anything to help get you the lift you need. But only if the misses is out shopping

If you can find side mirrors with the indicator in it, then you can feel remove them from the guards. But you'll need to run wiring etc into the interior and then into the doors. May not be legal but you'll satisfy the requirements and should be hassled for them

Thats a bugger!

The oldest thread dig ever :D

Pics when you get them installed please. Honestly didn't know they did 65mm sized

Quick search https://autogauge.com.tw/product/sw-series-65mm-oil-pressure-gauge-with-sensor-0100-psi/ https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/2-5-8-black-white-racing-gauge-series/

Yeap she looks great, nice choice

The rack is connected to the k-frame which with rooted mounts will send vibration through it and the chassis. Just putting ideas out so you can investigate the condition to help diagnose it. We can only do so much without seeing for ourselves.

Sorry missed this part. Nar diff won't be felt but heard. Engine mounts possibly if shagged or even tie rod end play.

Diff or rear bearings? Front bearins are noticeable when turning so I doubt it's the fronts.

https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/2004-holden-rodeo

Rocker cover comparison is not the best example Rear main isn't easy to get to unlike rocker covers Rocker covers don't warp Seal or seal and plate replacement is up to you. Given the hard time you give it, might be best to go plate with seal inplace. Tool + seal is almost seal and plate cost

Give me raw sugar over a chemical sweetener any day.

If it does that its the ecu temp sensor or wiring that's stuffed given you've replaced the sensor. Possible dud new sensor but could be wiring also. That happens to ensure cooling as the ecu doesn't know the engine temp regardless if cold or hot, starting again after a drive.

Had a mad vibration in the Fozza 80kms and over, instantly knew it was a drive shaft. Had a spare and tackled it today.. Yea she's fkd. Inner house had to be jimmied out. Right is old one Interesting they us 3 rollers for the CV, not a ball bearing and cage arrangement.

No, it won't be the battery, that's more for Central locking. The bypass is a temp solution only. Check the key head dome for tab contact. That works regardless of the key battery as its circuit is powered via the bcm when key is in. If the dome doesn't contact the tab there is no curciut...

So it could be the battery is dead inside the remote which may explain the lack of central locking. Regarding security, when inserting the key, check the dome silver contact on the key head is making good contact to the 2 half metal rings around the ignition barrel. You can gently pry them...

That's your issue, the security light should turn off either unlocking unlocking car or when the ignition is turned on to reds.. Your security system is not disabling.

Sooo about them EVs... Had to check the thread title, thought I clicked on the passed off thread Shouldn't EVs be taxed more as they are heavier than normal ICE vehicles, this would allow states to have enough cash to fix the roads..

Check to see if the security light is off when attempting to start it. Ensure the metal ring tabs are connecting with the key head around the ignition barrel.

Play with the value of components, also check the tolerance on each as that can throw out your calculations.

Check for fault codes first, search the forum. It will be your Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) Change out your CAS, sooner rather than later before it fails and leaves you stranded.

Tested and 1800respect comes up..

Footy's on, it's gonna be busy as hell

Yea Gtechniq is upto 2 years protection which is why I'm leaning towards that product. Been watching a heap of videos on it and on bare alloy there is no dulling or haziness which some do. Will check that video later on, may not have seen that one. If you get it let me know your thoughts

Lol Stupid fat fingers

Yeap going 2 coats and I'll leave them to cure for at least 3 days inside. wife's gonna roast me

Thanks mate will read up on it. So far I'm heavily leaning towards Gtechniq C5 Wheel Armour Good coverage, stackable, middle price point and great anti water thingos that ceramic does. Wheels are tucked away atm, life is preventing tyre purchase atm but need to pull my finger out and coat...

Try trolley strips or door molding strip

Any mech with do the easier job over replacing the hard lines and add rubber hoses. Speaking from experience here. You'll need a tow there for safety. But give them a call to see what they say. Go with which ever one your comfortable with and their recommended fix vs dollar amount.

To replace the lines all driver side accessories need to come off as well as exhaust manifolds. It can be done but it's easier to leave the lines there, cut either ends and replace with rated rubber hoses.

Yep, sounds like a similar experience I had and changing the cas sorted it. Missing under load may be unrelated but at least sort out th3 cutting out