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Redo all your earthing points around engine and bay. Sounds like you are suffering from low voltage, which can cause low or erratic idle and puts excessive load on the charging circuit (alternator). This may be showing up when you put load on it with your windows, do revs drop at all when you...

I have a VR V6 and T5 in my series one VN. Use your existing series one wiring loom, only have to lengthen a couple of wires to back of manifold (just peel back tape, is enough length in loom so no cutting needed). Need a series 2 VN or later radiator with pressure cap, heater tap and hoses...

Crane 276 is close, would need engine specs, these cams are pretty small.....

4 year thread dig, good effort! Are you using a genuine V8 clutch pedal? If not you will never get it right. The cable 'hook' on top of the pedal itself is longer and pivots differently than a 6 cyl one to gain more stroke. Cable itself wont make any difference, think about it... cable may be...

If you have undone those two nuts in the boot just slide the whole bumper back and off. No the quarters cannot be removed (while bumper is on car anyhow). Once it is off you can unscrew the plastic bumper skin off the bumper steel reinforcement. No other way around it.

Keep original VN engine loom and ecu. Extend a couple of wires to coolant sensor etc (open loom and feed them through to front, no need to cut and splice anything). Mechanically it will all bolt up with no mods needed. Swap your radiator, heater hoses and tap to VR set-up, straight swap no...

I wouldnt and didnt pay $600 for them. Thats retail. Shop around and they can be had a LOT cheaper. Hence why I stated thats retail and shop around? All spherical strut tops this style have around the same range of adjustment. Solid tops destroy bearings on the street. Thats why I fu<ked off...

No fault codes? Check around for vacuum leaks, clean out throttle body and try resetting IAC solenoid for starters. I had a funny hunting issue in my VN V8, was the MAP sensor playing silly buggers (no codes were displayed either..) Pays to check the easy stuff first.

Mate thats rubbish it doesnt last. My evolutions in the V8 are still like new (literally) 3 years on since they were fitted, the 'standard' nolathane adjustable tops I have been running in the V6 shitter for a good 8 years have most definitely sagged as they do, I wont argue that, but absolutely...

Nolathane 44600 is what I use and suggested. Cant take photo atm, cant find camera! Where in NZ are you? Autolign in P.N. can supply a pair of NOS Noltec solid pillow ball adjustable strut tops for ~$575 inc. Tracked them down for a mate a couple of months ago, most people **** when they see...

Nolathane Evolutions are THE best strut tops for a street driven commodore. Fully adjustable, and have a urathane insert around spherical bearing to help absorb shock and not rattle bearing to pieces. They are around the $600 mark retail over here, shop around. If you want I will post a pic...

Im positive the bush in the housings are the same, Im sure Ford boxes had an extra spline on output shaft (same as VN< auto..) Dont quote me though, its been a long time since Ive mucked around frankensteining these things!

EV6 was the revised motor used in 91 ish VN (unofficial "Series 2") through to VR. Thats why its not on your early VN "series 1" motors. Take the extension housing and top cover off box and make sure the syncro's are sitting correct to their respective drums, operate the drums forward to engage...

Only need a VN or later block if you want a 4-bolt mains as they had thicker webbing at the mains. Depends what you want to use it for, but you can still get good grunt out of old heads. Apart from clearancing the base of your bores for your rods with the longer stroke there is no other...

If its an early VN dont bother. You will need either an adapter flywheel or Dellow used to do an adapter to fit the 6 bolt manual flywheel onto auto crank flange. Auto or manual computer doesnt matter at all!!!! Don get sucked into paying big money for a "manual" ecu, its a crock. Wiring just...

No you will definitely want a "series 2" radiator to suit later cooling system (you need a radiator with a pressure cap for a start lol). Forgot to mention you will have to swap over the heater hoses and tap aswell. It all sounds worse than it is, once you start ripping it to bits it will all...

I converted my VN series 1 V6 auto to a series 2 motor and T5 in less than a day (about 9 solid hours). Its very straight forward. Pull radiator, alternator, unbolt power-steering pump and tensioner block off motor and pull to one side. This allows you to seperate engine loom from motor and move...

Motor has to come out regardless if you want to fit a girdle. Full tear down, fit longer studs and align bore the mains. Should be ok as is on the bolted bottom end if your not planning on spinning it hard all the time. A daily with the odd burst shouldnt see the caps walking too much.......

Like what Brett_jjj was saying, its the rack buffer pad. Adjusting it is fine due to wear, to take up a bit of play in the rack. Dont overdo it, only enough to take the slop out. Is a good indication if you have to adjust it a bit its nearly time for a recon/replacement rack.

Either get the old one repaired depending on how bad it is, or you are after a Trimatic pattern manual bellhousing, to suit pull type (cable) clutch and M20/21/Aussie 4 speed. hth

If they are still assembled in the housing with axles, take a couple of bars and a mate. Position bars in between wheel studs.Get your mate to hold his axle still while you turn yours and see what sort of resistance you get. Should be as good an indication as any as to whether its any good or...

Look on the side of the block, they are cast as RB30 or RB20 on side. RB20 is a single cam motor, it would be RB20DE (E for Electronic injection), D for twin cam (DOHC). Link posted above is RB20DET (turbo).

Cant wait for the pics bud! I started doing the top of mine today, might have it near completed this year, will throw up some pics on the other site when its near complete and see what ya reckon........

Damn I see what you mean, messy business........... The plasma I have at work is just a baby and doesnt like much more than 2.5mm S/S. Unless I can squeeze stuff onto the mill, sometimes you have to get a little Rambo and spend a little more time on clean up (enter Sabre saws etc....). Let me...

Yea mate, I've throw up my msn, you can email me if you want, I know your PM box gets a little flooded.. I havnt gone any further with my manifold yet, still need to fold up the top plenum, but wanted to do something about reducing the lower plenum volume around the base of the plenum/runners...

Nice work Jase!! I think you may frequent this forum a little more than the other..?? Thought I would pop over and see how you were getting on mate, been very busy I see........... (yep im still alive..)