ive got vl400's code runnin on an 808 on a motorbike engine, ive had it happily revving to 7500 and bouncing off a limiter, will be going to 9000 once I get it in the vehicle tuned properly. just swapping out the code could save you a bunch of $$$ converting to aftermarket for no reason.
the rough idle and not starting isntantly anymore is a dirty MAF, go buy yourself a can of contact cleaner and cleant he MAF elements with it, you will be amazed the difference it will make.
nar you will never get 12V while cranking, it will be a combination of the starter load + batt flattery, in any case thats the wire you need :) hopefully youll hear the sweet sound soon
hahahahahah I think I just realised the problem... you have it connected to Accessories, which gets turned off while cranking. break out your multimeter and find a wire that gets power when you turn to IGN and keeps it when you hit the starter.
I assume if you probe the blue wires on the injector side of the white plug then you get power? it might be some half baked anti theft ****.
cut that white plug crap and yellow and green joined on wires out of the loom and rejoin the blue wires to D15 and 16, doesnt matter which way round, the...
that pink wire goes to ign, wire it back to ign again that was correct. double check the coil has 12V at keyon, that is usually what is wrong with no spark on conversions.
Manual = Yes but only if VATS is disabled. the VR sends a different anti theft signal from the key.
Auto = Above RE:Vats still applies AND it depends on the year model of your VR the trans changed round late VR, it might work but youll prob get trans error codes.
lol you trying to kill yourself. yes its the tune, it will not shift into 4th at high speed. have fun trying to find a tuner that will turn it off and help you kill yourself ;)
im unclear? what is the problem you are hunting down? lack of rev limit or the 2 deg wandering timing?
just coz the timing chain is new dont mean it has no slack ;) every small amount of slack adds up and you end up with your 2 deg wandering timing. another source of slack that can...
no idea lol, cant say ive felt it but I dont think it should. as I said, it wont be the computer... it will spark while cranking if you dont even have one plugged in. dont take his word for it... put the test light across the pos and neg of the coil and see if it flashes. if its on...
the factory immobiliser only cuts fuel, the spark will still work even if your ecu is unplugged. first, make sure you get 12V at the coil. even put a test light across it and see if it flashes. since the ecu is not involved at the craking stage, it can only be: ign moduile, hall effect...
yep, VR v8 manual use $12P, been out for a while, only recently got the ability to do full realtime in tp5 via a plugin.
the bin: delcohacking.net • View topic - OSE 12P V110
plugin and definitions for data tracing in tp5: delcohacking.net • View topic - OSEPlugin for Tunerpro 5
sounds like you dont have the permanent power to the ECU hooked up. its a red with black trace. unplug the ECU connectors. with the IGN on, you should have 12V to pins: B1, A6 and C16
your fuel pump wiring is still wrong.... it should work the way youve got it but its not how it is...
doesnt sound like its hooked up right..... you dont actually NEED the oil pressure switch hooked up, its just as a backup to trigger the fuel pump via oil pressure in case the relay or ECU fails. you only need one wire per terminal on the relay. .ECU pin A1 - grey-white goes to trigger...
no conversion diagram, just get the EFi wiring diagram and a multimeter. serously, the wiring is not hard.... there are like 6 wires that you need to hook up off the EFI looom to get it to run. ask specific questions for the wires you are not sure bout and youll get specific answers on...
I vote fuel pump. Dying fuel pumps can come good for a second after a jolt etc. I would put a fuel pressure guage on it and even sit it under your wiper blade and go for a drive. will give you a decent indication if that is the problem.
ITEM: VL Sedan with 5L EFI Engine and T700 Gbox Conversion
LOCATION: Woodburn, NSW
YEAR: 1987
SERIES: Example: VL
BADGE: Example: Executive
ENGINE: EFI 304 V8 out of a VN
TRANSMISSION: 4 speed T700 Auto (shift kitted)
COLOUR: White
EXTERIOR CONDITION: Stain on boot lid, paint in ok...
lol the computer doesnt adjust WOT it adjusts part throttle areas for economy. WOT is hardcoded. if it goes any better after a few days its not coz of the computer ;)
ive seen a 5L with about 18 deg base timing hunting really badly. putting in the diag paperclip and turning the dizzy back to 10 deg fixed it straight up. maybe try that.
all you need is the VIN number man. thats all holden need to get you a new remote key that works. that being said, I cant tell you whether the holden dealer will accept you just walking in and going "hey get me a key for VIN xxxxxxx" how do they know whether or not you just read it off a car...
I read back through this thread a bit back to the pics of your new exhaust manifold setup. arent those pipes a bit small? the crossover pipe looks the same size as your primaries. what size is it? looks smaller than 2". that restriciton could be the cause of your lack of power maybe?
you need to get an aldl cable onto that thing, hook it up to a scantool like efilive and post up your recorded log, then we will be able to see what your MAF and fuel trims are reading like. that will go a long way towards figuring it out.
its not the VSS, I know of another converison running around for 2 years with no VSS, no problems. (apart from no lean cruise and some nice flames out the exhaust on Decel without DFCO)
sounds like map sensor not connected properly or stuffed, could be a lot of things in such a conversion, one...
I can only think of 2 options:
1) go get a kalmaker workshop tune as it lets you replace the MAF with a MAP sensor and keep the VT PCM.
2) repin your loom to suit a VR/VS PCM (or lay a complete VR/VS wiring loom) and tune that. dont know what effect it would have on the parts of your dash...
according to my VT ecotec service manual:
Connecting Rod Cap Bolts 24 - 30 Nm plus
head: (if you need the tightening sequence diagram, let me know)
Tighten head bolts to the following sequence
and in the order shown in Fig. 6A1-1-104.
NOTE:
It is important to follow the given...
holden202 off delcohacking.net has converted his ecotec in his torana to VR engine management with good results.
write up here
delcohacking.net • View topic - Time for a change - Ecotec Torana
yeah its quite easy, theres 4 wires that go to the key, two wires join when the immobiliser is ON to make the dash light flash, the other two join when its OFF to make the car go.
you will have fun drilling out all the rivets to get at the ecu and wiring though.
well, didnt say the setup was nice, but at least in this one you can see where the pipes go... I beleive the dump pipe goes thru a hole cut in the guard and runs down the outside of the chassis rail.
I found some nice pics of a setup on ebay that was sold a few months back...
COMPLETE TURBO KIT TO SUIT VN V8 HEADS - eBay Turbos, Superchargers, Performance Parts, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 07-May-09 11:37:17 AEST)
looking forward to readin about it! a mate and I are currently in the plannign stages of a T04Z 5L Ute. Turbo is in the mail already. The plan is almost exactly the same, except we are goint to chop up a set of old pacemaker extractors and graft them to the log. we were going to pass the...
yeah, it locks up the converter almost solid in overdrive after a certain speed when the ecu turns it on. it drops the cruising rpm by a few hundred and saves some fuel.
honestly I think you're mad for wanting to go carby, but different strokes for different folks...
I would just go and get a memcal burner and tunerpro and learn how to tune that way, you will have far more control than a carby and mechanical advance setup not to mention easier.
that being...