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Dont remove the inlet manifold. Waste of time. If you want a little more room, remove your bonnet.

Good to hear you are making progress. I have been caught out helping a mate get his car running after he changed the relays out only to find the pin configuration was wrong. Caused all sorts of problems.

Check that you have replaced the relays with the same type and configuration. The holden relays are not a standard pin configuration. If the vehicle has been sitting for a long time it may be wise to remove the fuel tank and flush it out. Flush the fuel lines, replace the fuel filter and check...

Are you sure that the new temperature sender is ok? If it is faulty and telling the ecu that it cold it would be running rich as if a choke was on to help with cold running.

I am reasonably sure that the standard is 4 compression strokes for the test. Make sure you have the throttle plate fully open when cranking and the fuel pump disabled to stop fuel being dumped in. To me 85psi seems low, but as long as they are all the same then it should be ok.

Ignition coil ?. Check your spark intensity.

Have a look at your ignition coil. If it is still the original coil mounted at the rear of the manifold beside the distributor, they get heat effected and fail. If you replace it, relocate it to a cooler location. When it dies do you smell excessive unburnt fuel? Check the colour of the spark...

CAS Sensor

I forgot to mention, post on the delco hacking site as they have all of the guru's that know tunerpro backwards.

Engine temp looks to high and O2 sensors indicating lean. I think that the O2 cross counts should be higher if in closed loop.

Have a look along the front seat mounting points from under the car to see if you have any cracking or splitting of the floor around the tunnel. I have seen a VR floor pan crack from the drivers side rear inside mount and travel half way along the tunnel. The crack was about 250mm long.

Are you sure that is the rear main and not a manifold gasket leak? Normally a rear main leaks oil below crank level unless it is getting onto the flexplate or flywheel and getting flung around.

Isn't ICE Australian based? If so, contact them and they will probably organise repair.

It is easier to remove the passengers side front seat so the carpet can be lifted to gain access to the hand brake mounting bolts.

I dont know where it is on a V6, but on the V8 it is attached to the throttle body with a connector with 4 wires going to it.

It is the stepper motor that varies the air leak across the throttle plate. It is the system that controls the idle speed of the vehicle by continually adjusting the amount of air that bypasses the throttle plate to keep the idle rpm to the desired level. They get blocked up with carbon and...

Could also be a dirty IAC circuit.

Clean the IAC stepper actuator and port out and see if it makes a difference.

Essentially the idea behind getting the ABS solenoids to activate is to try and release any trapped air bubbles, hoping that they will find there way back to the reservoir. I have done this in the past and the pedal feel and height improved.

Just try the abs activation on a dirt road first and see if the pedal feels better.

If you have abs, try this first. On a dirt road, lock up the brakes a few times so the abs activates and see if the pedal feels better. The factory procedure uses the tech1 diagnostic reader to activate the abs module whist bleeding the brakes to force air out of the system.

Use a rattle gun air impact wrench if you have one. Other then that you can place a couple of flywheel/flexplate bolts in the rear flange of the crank to enable you to lock the crank from turning with a large screwdriver of some steel bar of some sought.

sounds like a head gasket problem or inlet manifold gaskets.

Adjust the shoes first then get under the car and adjust the cable yoke.

Did you have the throttle fully open and was the battery fully charged before the testing?

you have to check the adjustment of the shoes. You need to set the shoe adjustment to approximatley 0.5mm smaller than the rotor internal diameter, then adjust the cable yoke to take up the remaining slack. From memory I think the handbrake is supposed to hold when activated 6 clicks from...

Throttle stop position may not be adjusted correctly, causing the IAC to have to open to much to control the idle when cold.

If it happens when you brake then it may be the front radius rod bushes.

Was the car running like this before the cap and lead change? I would suspect a firing order problem. Probably have a lead out of order when you put them back onto the dissy.

Sounds like a problem with the torque converter lockup. I think that the electronic auto's do have a lockup function in 4th gear. May be wise to take it to a gearbox specialist.

You will have a better chance asking the question on the DelcoHacking forum.

Hazard light switch could be faulty. Try switching the hazard switch on/off with the ignition on about 30 times and see if your indicators are now ok.

fuel pickup hose to the swirl pot inside the tank may not be sitting in the correct location or a lazy fuel pump. If you search the forum I think it is a common problem with engines loosing power whilst turning rh corners.

There is also a problem with over torquing the wheel nuts can cause the disc rotor hat to distort causing braking issues. I think there was some tech write up on the DBA website about this.

Holden spares should sell injector o-ring kits.

I did not think that the VR BT1 commodores were officially an SS or have a 185kw engine from the factory. They did have the SS seats but lacked the external SS markings.

warped front rotors. They will need to be skimmed or replaced if they are too thin.

the hose is travels down the middle of the manifold to the connection behind the throttle body. Look at the .pdf I supplied in the above post.

I did not think that you could overtighten the sump bolts as the sump has dimples preventing to much distortion of the gasket.

Have a look at the attached