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Any Takers?

Hi Guys! Recently my VR has played up a few times. After driving and turning her off for a few minutes, I would come back and she wouldn't start again. I have Gas installed, and tried both gas and petrol but to no avail. Not overheating or anything silly like that. But after waiting for a few...

Hi guys! Lately I've noticed a noise comming from the back end of my VR commodore (live axle), sounding very similar to the front end noise when my front bearings needed replacing. It sounds like a low pulsation (like I said, similar to the front bearing noise, but the noise does not change...

Yeah managed to do them both, but they are a pr**k of a job. The rattle gun I bought wasn't quite upto the task either. Will be taking it back and getting something bigger. So got rid of my 'clunk' and car doesn't roll as much round corners, and large bumps are more comfortable.

I don't know why I didn't think of using a socket before. Bought some new tools today including a impact wrench, so I'll give it another go. Will only be replacing the strut mount bushes at this stage though, as I think the rest is still fine and I'm short of cash. Cheers for ur help guys!

It just taps in. Its no were near the sump.

Cheers, so worn springs won't just end up with a lower ride? Yeah the hex on top is a 10mm. Snapped the poor spanner trying to get it off. If I could get it off myself I would just change the bushes, but If I'm taking it into pedder, might as well do it all. -$500 :(

I've no idea if the struts have ever been replaced before. No I didn't have spring compressors on at the time, but not sure if it will make much difference as the large bolt was rotating along with the strut itself. I wasn't aware that springs wore out. If I am happy with the ride hight, then...

So I have a clunk sound in the front left evertime I go over a bump. Jacked it up and had a look at it the other day and my strut mount bushes are ****ed. About to push through from the looks of it. I've got some spare notathane bushes with bearings lying around as I knew they were a problem...

TBH, it sounds to good to be true. I have LPG and get around 13-14lts/100 in town.

:o That must be country driving? Injected LPG?

Can't find the brake fluid spec for my VR V6 in my manual. And can you recommend some brands? Cheers... :thumbsup:

Thanks VXCalais. I've had a good play with the radiator today, and it looks like I have Electrolysis degrading my radiator (measured about 0.5V from neg terminal to radiator). Its going to be a pain and a half finding out were the grounding problem is located. Do you know if a coolant high in...

Not true. I looked it up and it appears to be made by Tectaloy and looks to be equivelant to there TECTALOY RUSTGUARD which has no ethylene glycol. They sell it as a different brand, probably a deal they made with k-mart. But in terms of corrosion prevention, it is probably not to bad (of course...

Found some usefull info here ... http://www.tectaloy.com/images/documents/Tecinfo%20Book4.pdf Looks like I should be useing something like TECTALOY 90 PLUS http://www.tectaloy.com/images/documents/TECTALOY%2090%20PLUS%20RADIATOR%20COOLANT.pdf At $20/4lts its a step up from what I've been...

Yes I have a gasket between thermostate houseing and the block. Maybe its just a **** quality housing (from sprints). So what you guys are saying is all good, but have you's ever used poor coolant which caused problems? Of course $40 a bottle coolant is better, but its not like I need...

Now I've been useing some K-Mart coolant (about $5 for 4ltrs), and while it seems to be keeping my system clean, I have a lot of problems with leaks. I replaced the radiator a year ago (with a new SSS) and that has started leaking (although I think its faulty and not corrosion). I also noticed...

Anyone???...

I'm servicing my power steering pump, trying to replace the front shaft seal. It looks to me that I will have to remove the main shaft in order to replace the seal. But I can't seem to work out how. I'm guessing you need to remove whats left of your front pully, and do I need a pully puller to...

Yea, must be different. Cheers for that anywayz...

lol, I did take the small circlip out but hadn't realized that was the only thing holding the shaft in. It must have been abit stuck or something. Oh, but there was another circlip right down at the base of the shaft (no way to remove it), I thought that one was holding it in, or is that just...

Hey Azzfox, I know this is getting on a bit now, but I've just re-O'ringed mine (VR, but it looks the same). To get the valve out, you need to undo that 1inch (or 25mm) bolt were the high pressure line goes. Its normal thread (undo = counter clockwise) but its done up nice and tight. My manual...

I did it myself for the first time over the long week end. It took me a couple of days to complete. It's not really that tricky, but a big job being easy to forget were things go. If you haven't done much on your car before, I would be rather cautious about going ahead.

I had backfire issues with my VR (but petral was fine). It turned out to be one of the coil packs. LPG seems to need a greater voltage than petral accross the spark plug gap, and the old coil couldn't cope. Try replaceing your coil packs one at a time to see if it goes away. Mine's never...

There a 3/4 inch bolt. The torque spec for them is 20-25Nm which is quite low. I wouldn't just go and tighten them to much as you may damage the threading. Leaking from there indicates your inlet-manifold gasket will need replaceing (or you could try putting some radiator stop leak into your...

Yea, I had another trans fitted a couple years ago. Now as I recal, there was some other hose going to the first port up above the brake booster port with the smaller one above it being unterminated.

:thumbsup:I found this small hose at the back of my engine the other day. Doesn't seem to go anywere. The other end just goes somewere though the firewall. Any ideas? Also, the back end of the fuel pressure regulator (near the fuel rail) has a short length of tubing which doesn't go...

Nah no doing. The inlet manifold bolts were just to difficult to access with the fuel rail in the way. The O-rings on the injectors look ok; I imagine it'll be ok to use them again (cars on LPG anyway)?

Have a V6 VR which I'm pulling the inlet manifold off. Now do I need to remove the fuel injectors from the manifold before I can remove it or can I just leave them all on there (along with the fuel rail) and pull them off with the inlet manifold? I just figure it'll be simpler and then won't...

But can't you work out the compression ratio from this? And I am about to change inlet manifold gasket but I imagine this wouldn't affect my readings?

Did a compression test yesterday with these results. (on a VR V6 with LPG, 260,000KMs on the clock) 1 = 1100kpa (1190kpa after adding oil to cylinder) 2 = 1220kpa 3 = 1200kpa 4 = 1240kpa 5 = 1250kpa 6 = 1240kpa From the looks of cyl 1's plug, it looks like its running a little lean...

Cheers, but I have new radiator/hoses/etc. I could acctualy see the coolant comming up from the bolts. How many bolts hold the inlet manifold on anyway? What about those radiator stop leak additives? If it stops the leak is it fixed???

If there was coolant getting into the inlet manifold, why would it be forced out of these bolts? Wouldn't it just sit at the bottom of it? Also, say my gasket needs to be replaced, how bad is it for the engine if I kept driving around like it is?

No oil in radiator, and no white smoke.

Well shows what I know. Anyone know what this is for, and wheither it is normal for coolant to be in there? Or do I have a blown head gasket or something?

While searching for a coolant leak, I came accross this bolt which was leaking coolant. Its located behind the starter motor (See pics). Bolt size is 3/8", and there are 6-8 of them on both sides of the engine. I'm just wondering what these bolts are for and wheither its normal for them to be...

Thank hako, I got it off. Completely mangled the thing, but its off.

How the hell do u get this thing off? I can see some sorta blue glue or something on there. I've pried of the outer edge of the seal with a screwdriver but the thing just isnt budgin... :bang:

Ok so I've gone to Repco, supercheap, sprints, motortraders, etc... Cheapest I can find is a wooping $170. Were are these cheaper units you guys are talkin about?? $50 from wreckers.

Thanks guys. I heard from someone that this bolt needs to be undun clockwise (ie, opposite to normal). Is this true? and who would hire out the tools for the job?