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they all go over the diff

why until july?? are they changing the rules?what to?

you would have to get a series 2 block/motor or a turbo motor....the turbo motor can produce more power standard than a converted non-turbo block...but check you're state laws to see if you can drive it....

you'll have a problem doing the conversion unless you know someone who can drill and tap holes out well....the 86 blocks didn't have the holes in them for the turbo feed and drain whereas the 87/88(series 2) blocks did.....

there's a post in the "everything to know about vl's" with the conversion in it....manual makesdriving more fun than auto.....also it depends which block you have to convert it to turbo...if it series one then you have to drill and tap holes for the turbo feed/drain.....i personally went...

if you put a xf throttle body on you have to bridge the coolant lines.....that's all you have to do from what i have heard......

nah sorry.....i out the other way and don't know many places out there...

there's a place near morabbin(actually braeside) called Duvall motorsport.....he a bit pricey but he know what he is doing and also gives you all the options and has a fair bit of experience with vl's

9ltrs?????wtf they should have about 4 or 5!!!!the noise is most likely lifters.....vibrations could possibly be the tie rod end or the steering rack (if you in vic i know someone that has the whole setup in good condition)the petrol pump should make a light whirring noise...no clunking or...

depends where you are....my friend got his done for $40 a rim in vic.........if you have the energy and a electric buff you can get some alloy wheel polish or some autosol and do it yourself.....

i'm pretty sure that the patterns are the same but if not then you can more than likely but an adapter plate....the big issue will be the cross member and as megee83 said, the space.....find out the dimensions of both and compare them....that should at least give you a basic idea of what will...

is she on her p's??cause if it full license then i think that it doesn't matter if she drive auto or manual....

you need a 10 mm spanner/socket and there is one on the top radiator hose and the other on the top/front of the inlet manifold

thats the control box.....if the plugs aren't there then i think that you have to change the loom

adjust the drums....the self adjusters hardly ever work properley and don't adjust the brake shoes......when you have adjusted them you will notice that the pedal will be heaps better!!

check the power transistor(i think thats what it's called) on the dizzy(the single wire that plugs on the side)i had a prob with that a while ago and it sounds similar.....check the timing if you have the time...that can also make a big difference

is it running rich or lean? it could possibly be the timing

if you set it up right then a pod with cold-ari induction is better

the only vl v8 that was originally injected is the walky....the rest are all carbies

it was also due to the fact that they had to incorperate anti pollution laws due to the fact it ran on unleaded i think

when i rang up holden a few years back they said they had a computer called tech 1 which could only go on vn upwards....maybe there is a nissan one or some sort of aftermarket sorta thing.....

what do you mean by mod????cause you can chip them but that's really it.....as for plugging a computer into them as far as i know you can't

one of my friends got on(serious overkill) for a stage 2 for $600.....you could probably get one cheaper though

a shift kit is to make the transmission shift faster by changing the valve bodies and pressures

as far as i know you need the loom that runs to the auto control unit and the one that runs to the T.P.S. i don't know if the auto and manuals came with the same looms and they just didn't plug certain stuff in or what.....i also forgot to mention that you will also need the looms off the auto...

tailshaft, computer, pedal cluster, T.P.S, looms, auto computer, centre console piece, shifter and linkages....that's all i can think of at the moment...hope it helps

yeah....it was one for metal.....rounded the edges, painted it and put a flezeble rubbed strip around it. Also put a piece of stainless there to help stop the hot air.....works well surprisingly!!

yeah thats true.......if you could be bothered you can take the rocker cover off, put some cardboard around the engine and run it...then you can hear which one/s are ticking....but as HDT_aero said if it isn't that bad then put some lifter free is or a heavier weight oil in!

have you tried hooking up another oil pressure gauge.....a lot of vl dash oil pressure gauges like to flicker.....

check the air flow meter plug.....they can stuff up too and cause the same problem

you can also put a hevier weight oil in and that helps the lifters too.....but if you have a gregory's manual and a bit of time they are pretty easy to replace!!

no worries....anytime!

is the pump making louder or funny noises????if not then most likely it's you're rack!!!

you can't use a 1' master on drum rear end.....there's something different about them but i can't quite remember.....it would be best to buy a disc conversion kit and convert the rear to disc......then you can fit a 1' with no problems. as for the turbo calipers with the standard in my opinion...

i agree with SNY.3LT....it prob the coolant temp sensor.....they make the car run richer when the engine is cold and they can also add to poor fuel economy.....make sure the plug is on and not deteriated and try getting a wire brush on the brass section...if that doesn't work then a new one is...

yeah i'm pretty sure that you do have the engine running. also i forgot to mention that the red led represents 10's and the green represents 1's so 1 red flash and 3 green flashes equals 13......

take the kick panel off on the passengers side...the computers there.....if the lights are flashing on it make sure that you count how many times the red and green flash in sequence. if there is more than one fault, they will flash in a certain sequence(red first then green)then have a short...

the standard timing i 15 degrees btdc most people retime the motor to about 18-20 degrees...the way to do it is to get a timing light, connect the lead to no1 spark lead and point it at the crank pulley with the engine running. on the timing cover there its a little pointer and on the crank...

if you couldn't be bothered to take much off then take the oil pressure switch/sender out and get a oil can and squirt it down the hole towards the pump.....then crank it over and that should do it

you need to put backing plates on(which means removing the axles) the brake lines that run along the axles need changing, you have to put a different handbrake cable on(make shure that you run them through th lower control arms, you don't need to change the brake booster, you have to put disc...